Trying to find Bobcat 334 control relief valve-6670134

[Mogoman]

It is leaking and can not be repaired. I am hoping to find a used one. The control relief valve made by Oil Control part number 05163903032003B. It is on a Comer final drive motor. It is also on other brands of final drive motors. I have looked the net , but have been unable to find one. I have also contacted all the hydraulic repair shops in my area. I am hoping someone has a failed final drive motor with good valve on it. Any suggests on how to find one would be appreciated.

 

[melli]

What does Bobcat say about it? How many kids do you have to give up that?
I see I will likely have that issue in the near future.
BTW - what problems are associated with a leaking one? Assume it wasn't just leaking at the attachment point, but internally...

 

[Mogoman]

What does Bobcat say about it? How many kids do you have to give up that?
I see I will likely have that issue in the near future.
BTW - what problems are associated with a leaking one? Assume it wasn't just leaking at the attachment point, but internally...

Bobcat wants an obscene $1500. I have found it on the web from OEM for as low as $350, which is what I may have to do, but I was really hoping to find a used one since they just bolt on the final drive motor of many brands.

The leak is caused by micro fractures in the valve drive block that that allow oil to pass to the holes the bolts pass through. You may not have the issue, but I have read posts by other folks that have had the same problem. My personal belief is over time the bolt corrodes (swells) which puts additional pressure on the valve block which then cracks.

Remove your final drive access plates and look at yours. If it is not corroded much or you can loosen bolts easily, you probably will not have the problem.

 

[melli]

Those valves have been a concern of mine since I got my machine...
It looks like mine was sitting in a salt and mud bath...plus some dissimilar metal reaction. No idea why that area couldn't have been designed a tad better to keep out mud...
I'm thinking when it goes, I'll be changing a mess of hoses too.



BTW - thanks for the info!

 

[Mogoman]

Those valves have been a concern of mine since I got my machine...
It looks like mine was sitting in a salt and mud bath...plus some dissimilar metal reaction. No idea why that area couldn't have been designed a tad better to keep out mud...
I'm thinking when it goes, I'll be changing a mess of hoses too.

BTW - thanks for the info!

Yep, mine looks exactly the same. If you do ever need one, the $350 one can be had from:
Danny Graham
H&R Construction Parts
5924 Fremont Street
Riverside, CA 92504

 

[JackinVT]

I realize this is an old thread but as I'm having no luck with replies to my thread I figur I would give this a try. I have the same issue as above and am purchasing a new relief valve assembly from H&R as identified, still $350. My question is how to safely remove the mounting bolts without breaking them. With all the corrosion around the bolt heads that are countersunk into the aluminum block it seems likely. The bolts only look to be 1/4". I would really like to know how hard it was to remove the ones in the case of this original post?

 

[melli]

I realize this is an old thread but as I'm having no luck with replies to my thread I figur I would give this a try. I have the same issue as above and am purchasing a new relief valve assembly from H&R as identified, still $350. My question is how to safely remove the mounting bolts without breaking them. With all the corrosion around the bolt heads that are countersunk into the aluminum block it seems likely. The bolts only look to be 1/4". I would really like to know how hard it was to remove the ones in the case of this original post?

I would pre-soak the bolts in a penetrating oil like WD40, then use a hammer impact driver to see if you can un-seize them. The bolts won't be aluminum, so one can give them a good whack. Can't really use heat, since aluminum valve body expands more than the bolt.
All else fails, I will drill the head off mine and get new ones...
Please let us know how it works out...

 

[JackinVT]

Thanks for the response! I also emailed Mogoman who initiated the original thread. His response was consistent with yours. He soaked the bolts for several days with DW40 and indicated he bought new bolts. I think the impact driver will be the key to being successful in not breaking the bolts. I let you know how I make out. The new part will not be here till next week so there is plenty of time for soaking.

 

[JackinVT]

Well it went exactly how I had feared. I soaked the bolts for a solid week until the part arrived, it came with new bolts. I used a small impact but only managed to strip one of the bolt heads. Then I tried rapping them with a hammer followed by a tightening and loosening with a small breaker. I actually managed to remove one bolt and strip the other two bolt heads. Next was drilling off the bolt heads, slow very slow. I used the 1/2" breaker bar on the large plug that I originally could not remove. Well it loosened and broke one side if the block free, the one with two bolts. So now just one bolt (stud) remained stuck. After hours of trying many things I took a hacksaw blade to the edge of the block followed by a chisel. Once the corner of the block was gone exposing the stud I managed to pry the block off. In two minutes I had the new part on, done.

 

[melroebobcat]

I could get you a new valve for $600 that's 50 bucks off, or anybody else that ever needs special parts just pm me