Solved...
For those that might face a similar issue, I'll try to share how we got this replaced.
PLEASE NOTE: ALL REFERENCES TO RIGHT AND LEFT ARE OFFERED FROM THE PERSPECTIVE OF THE PERSON LOOKING UNDER THE CAB TOWARD THE BACK OF THE MACHINE - NOT THE "TRADITIONAL" RIGHT & LEFT AS YOU'RE SITTING IN THE CAB. Hope this makes it easier for someone actually attempting the repair.
This is for the C-Series 963. Supposedly good for all series except G Series, which is different.
PICTURES: Wish it had been practical to take some, but it wasn't. I do have the Parts Diagram and Parts list with my manual now, so if anyone ever needs it PM me and I'll get it over to you.
Pickup Tube Location: Way in the back is is the Hydro Pump. On the top of the Hydro Pump near the center of the pump is a large brass elbow (1.5" ++). Locate a spot on the pump about three inches to the right of the large elbow centered between the front and back of the pump. The fitting you are looking for should be directly below that spot... way down on the bottom (which is the top of the primary tank).
What To Look For: The only thing you will be able to see is the black rubber bushing (grommet), the barbed elbow, and a hose clamp. The hose is routed under a plate or bracket and is not visible. The visible part of the bushing is just over 1" wide. the vertical end of the 90 degree elbow is inserted into the middle of the bushing and the horizontal barb will have a hose clamp. Mine was a screw-type stainless ring clamp which was easier to see than what the factory probably uses. The fuel hose is only 1/4" ID so the elbow and clamp are really small.
Access: Removal of the wheel and access panel will not help with this repair as the fuel pickup tube location is too far away. The dealer will want to pull the engine. We were fortunate enough to be able to perform the repair from above.
Repair: To perform this repair (without pulling the engine) you require someone with a smaller frame, long arms, strength and determination. I'm 6,2 with a broad frame and I couldn't get close. A guy I work with is 5,9 with narrow shoulders and he could nearly disappear completely under the cab. THAT was the key. He could actually reach the bushing with his hands and needle nose pliers to extract the bugger. Sure enough, I had blown off the pickup tube and check valve. Actually could be a pretty easy fix if you have the right sized person... BUT, see Tips Below.
Tips:
#1: If it is cold outside, find some way to warm the hoses and fittings you're working with. We didn't have the benefit of a nice heated shop, and after a great deal of time trying to install the new parts figured out that if everything is warm, they go in much easier. Even a utility heater blowing in there for a while will help if you can block the wind (not likely in Nebraska).
#2: When removing the old bushing, only pull out as little (fuel line) hose from under the plate / bracket as you absolutely need to get the new pickup tube installed and in the tank. Getting the hose to go back under that bracket is a sonofagun (but again, heat helps). Have no way of knowing but we speculate that the hose 90's down on the other side of that bracket and it's tough to convince it to go back down there. Since we didn't know any better, we pulled out about 6" and it took nearly two hours getting it back in (and there's not really any other practical option on what to do with the excess except to stuff it back in there). Another thing that helped with this problem was starting the Bobcat and running a bit - the vibration helped the hose go in so we could stuff another 1/4" or so in the hole and do it again.
#4: This is one of those repairs where you end up having more success closing your eyes and "feeling" the solution rather than see what you're doing.
#5: If you're doing this repair because you back-blew the lines, you want to make sure you didn't blow out the vent hose bushings as well (I did). On the filler tube about 6" down from the fill opening is a hose the size of the fuel lines tapped into the side of the fuel filler tube. This is a vent hose that allows the primary and auxiliary tanks to equalize (the are also connected by a fuel hose tapped to the bottom of each tank with much more rugged fittings). Follow this hose down to a tee and then follow the hose from the tee to both ends and make sure the bushing they are attached to is still in the top of each tank. The bushings are identical to the one that is used for the fuel pickup tube, but the elbow is different because it doesn't have to accommodate for a hose to be attached to it. You will be able to see the grommet for the auxiliary tank to verify proper insertion. Unfortunately, you will have to close your eyes and trace the line for the primary tank purely by hand, since there isn't any way we found to actually see it. If the one for the primary tank is blown out, to find the hole to re-insert the grommet you have to feel the filler tube down to where it enters the tank. From there, feel the top left (again - your left not driver left) corner of the tank and follow it toward the rear of the machine. You will come to a 90 degree seam going UP. Follow this seam vertically to the 90 going horizontally toward the back. Follow a couple inches back and then feel in to the right of that seam and you should feel the hole for the vent bushing. The picture of the tank from the dealer parts drawing helps and I can get that to you if the dealer is closed.
#6: If you're not the small framed guy doing the repair, you better know what beer he likes and have a case or two to give him 'cause he probably just saved you over a grand!
I know this is wordy... but I hope someone will eventually find it helpful as I have benefited many times from the experience of other on this forum. Thanks y'all.
