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  1. #1
    Gold Member
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    Dec 2006
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    388
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    Sullivan, WI
    Tractor
    2011 Bobcat CT235

    Default Box Blade on Bobcat

    What is the ideal setting on the Bobcat tractor for maximum scraping potential on a box blade, top link in which of the three positions and link extended or retracted or in between?

  2. #2
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    78
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Tractor
    Bobcat CT230, Bobcat 325 Excavator, John Deere X300

    Default Re: Box Blade on Bobcat

    I have to alter the top link length depending on what kind of scraping i am doing. When doing rough work i start with the top link in the shortest position with the rippers down, then finish up extending the top link to keep it fairly flush with the ground and pull the rippers up.

    In a nutshell, lots of getting on and off the machine. I actually bought the rear hydraulic kit last week because of the box blade so i can run a hydraulic top link. I went in for forks and walked out with both. Just missing the top link and time to install the kit now.

  3. #3
    Gold Member
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    Dec 2006
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    388
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    Sullivan, WI
    Tractor
    2011 Bobcat CT235

    Default Re: Box Blade on Bobcat

    and what position low middle or high does the toplink go on the back of the tractor?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Box Blade on Bobcat

    Quote Originally Posted by qed-cat225 View Post
    and what position low middle or high does the toplink go on the back of the tractor?
    Not meaning to sound condescending....but (isn't there always a "but"?<g>
    Yours are questions to which there truly are no "right (or wrong) answers".
    The "perfect angle" as well as the proper attachment point for the top link changes, literally, minute to minute depending on what you are doing There is only one way to know what it is and that's "seat time".
    That's the bad news.
    The good news is you've already been pointed in the right direction regarding the best bang for you buck you can possibly make in your quest to render the boxblade your new best bud - the hydraulic top link.
    I spent about 8 hours over the last couple days rough and finish grading with my BB and probably adjusted the top link 200 times to the "perfect angle" for what I was trying to accomplish - not a chance in **** I would have made more than 20 adjustments if I had to leave the seat to adjust the screw.
    Haven't done it yet, but my experience with the top link part of TnT (top and tilt) has made me a believer and proven the benefit of going all the way....hyd side link is on order.
    Don't take my word for it, but do read up on the plethora of posts (search "top 'n tilt") - you'll have a hard time finding anyone who regrets having made the investment.

  5. #5
    Elite Member Gittyup's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    2,948
    Location
    Mid Atlantic
    Tractor
    Kioti CK25 Shuttle Shift, loaded tires, JD X739

    Default Re: Box Blade on Bobcat

    Quote Originally Posted by qed-cat225 View Post
    and what position low middle or high does the toplink go on the back of the tractor?
    This will depend on what you are doing, and also how big the boxblade is relative to your tractor height. And if using with hydraulic top link you want to make sure not to put it where it can bind. The lower one gives a little more forward tilt and might dig better. the higher one gives you more adjustment for smoothing or digging less aggresively. . The degree of effect is probably closely related to how much difference there is in size between the BB and the tractor. But, I haven't found it to matter too much really and my boxblade is on the big side for my tractor. Me, I just use the middle position. Others might think differently

  6. #6
    Platinum Member NSBound's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    924
    Location
    Nova Scotia Canada
    Tractor
    Landini 4140 HST

    Default Re: Box Blade on Bobcat

    Go grab a coffee, (or a beer ) and read through this link - there's several pages but I've marked it as a favourite and refer back to it from time to time - lots of good info. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...box-blade.html
    Ian, now retired near Wallace Nova Scotia. 2008 Landini 4140H made by LS Tractors, FEL, toothbar, 6' box blade, bedder, middle buster, 5' Celli tiller, pallet forks, Pat's EC System, loaded tires, 2 rear remotes (standard on the Landini) . I bought my tractor from Cumberland Tractor, www.cumberlandtractor.blogspot.com . See the full story on building my hillside house in Nova Scotia at http://wallaceriver.blogspot.com/

  7. #7
    Elite Member
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    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: Box Blade on Bobcat

    Quote Originally Posted by xLearJockey View Post
    Haven't done it yet, but my experience with the top link part of TnT (top and tilt) has made me a believer and proven the benefit of going all the way....hyd side link is on order.
    Don't take my word for it, but do read up on the plethora of posts (search "top 'n tilt") - you'll have a hard time finding anyone who regrets having made the investment.
    If you don't mind me asking, what is your side link costing you?
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  8. #8
    Veteran Member MESSMAKER's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    1,087
    Location
    Bluegrass,KY
    Tractor
    Bobcat ct 225

    Default Re: Box Blade on Bobcat

    I put the toplink in the lowest position. I shorten the link for ripping and set it level for grading.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Box Blade on Bobcat

    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    If you don't mind me asking, what is your side link costing you?
    Don't mind a bit - but never saw your post until now....sorry!
    Anyway, events of the past couple months have overtaken my best intentions and I'm still sidelink "challenged" (as in sidelinkless).

    Original order for the ram was "backordered" - expect delivery "next Tuesday". "next Tuesday" seemed to get recycled to mean "EVERY" next Tuesday.
    I'll redact the name to protect the guilty but henceforth refer to them simply as the "Wimpy" (as in "gladly pay you next Tuesday for a hamburger today" Hydraulic Supply Company.

    But, back to your original question.
    Since I already have the second set of rear remotes (ordered on original tractor purchase - best decision I ever made) and associated plumbing, the only additional cost is the ram itself (~$150), a couple of short 1/4" hoses, and fittings.
    Finally, my plan is to use the existing fixed side link - chop off the ends and weld them to the new ram. That's already been paid for (the link) and the chop and splice will cost only my time and a few rods - might be $50 - $100 if you'd have to find a "pro" to perform the operation.

    Total it all up and I'd guestimate you're looking at a range of $200 - $300 - assuming one already has the RR's.

    Once life returns to a close approximation of "normal" around here I'll renew the quest and start over from the beginning.
    The one thing I know for sure is I kick myself every time I use the BB for still not having completed the project yet but, as they say, .....in due course.

    As an aside, I purchased the top link from CCM and was pleased with both the quality and service they provided.
    I elected not to go with them for the sidelink (if I recall theirs is ~$250-300) NOT because of $ but because I didn't want the check valve. (That's an argument with staunch proponents on both sides<g> but at this stage I might just bite the bullet and go that way and get it over with! <s>

  10. #10
    Elite Member
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    4000\' mountains of Southern California
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    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: Box Blade on Bobcat

    Quote Originally Posted by KiotiWhite View Post
    Don't mind a bit - but never saw your post until now....sorry!
    Anyway, events of the past couple months have overtaken my best intentions and I'm still sidelink "challenged" (as in sidelinkless).

    Total it all up and I'd guestimate you're looking at a range of $200 - $300 - assuming one already has the RR's.

    Once life returns to a close approximation of "normal" around here I'll renew the quest and start over from the beginning.
    The one thing I know for sure is I kick myself every time I use the BB for still not having completed the project yet but, as they say, .....in due course.

    As an aside, I purchased the top link from CCM and was pleased with both the quality and service they provided.
    I elected not to go with them for the sidelink (if I recall theirs is ~$250-300) NOT because of $ but because I didn't want the check valve. (That's an argument with staunch proponents on both sides<g> but at this stage I might just bite the bullet and go that way and get it over with! <s>

    PM me if you want some help with this, I have the hydraulic you need in stock.
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

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