Troubleshooting hydraulics

[lstinthot]

Is there a way to troubleshoot what is causing my tractor from not moving like it should? From day one I could only use high gear on flat land, I would only use it when moving from one area of yard to other when not doing work. Now middle range is acting the same way. Tractor will not move if there is any kind of incline and definitely not move if I am trying to move dirt. I have to use low gear to do any kind of work. I use to be able to work all day in mid-range and only use low gear if I want to dig into a pile of dirt.

I have a hydrostatic CT-230 with about 300 hours. Hydraulic oil changed at 50 hours. Oil topped off a few hours ago.


All the other hydraulics seam to be working fine. I have rear remotes that drive the backhoe and the backhoe seams to be be working fine. I have tried turning the rear remotes off and it does not affect the drive capability.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[davesl708]

Istinthot. This is a reach but could the brake be hanging up? Maybe only low gear can overpower the brake.

Does seem strange a machine with only 300 hrs. would be having HST problems.

 

[winston1]

Here is the trouble shooting page out of the CT230 repair manual. I suspect one of the things listed under "Loss of hydrostatic power under load" will be your problem.There are 3 test plugs that can be removed and a gauge installed to do testing. There are about 4 pages in the manual covering these tests. They call for a "Compact tractor hydraulic test kit". I think finding out the thread of the plugs a person could rig up their own test gauge. If you think you might want to make these tests I will scan the pages for you. I gave $109 on ebay for my repair manual. Don't know just how mechanically inclined you are so give me feedback if you think the pages might help you

Went ahead and scanned the pages for you. They are in reverse order.

 

[tman1020]

What rpm's do you run at?

 

[lstinthot]

This is great. I am sure I can come by some gauges to test this. I run between 2000 and full RPM when doing work. Lately having to run at higher RPMs to get anything out of the tractor.

Here is the trouble shooting page out of the CT230 repair manual. I suspect one of the things listed under "Loss of hydrostatic power under load" will be your problem.There are 3 test plugs that can be removed and a gauge installed to do testing. There are about 4 pages in the manual covering these tests. They call for a "Compact tractor hydraulic test kit". I think finding out the thread of the plugs a person could rig up their own test gauge. If you think you might want to make these tests I will scan the pages for you. I gave $109 on ebay for my repair manual. Don't know just how mechanically inclined you are so give me feedback if you think the pages might help you

Went ahead and scanned the pages for you. They are in reverse order.

 

[lstinthot]

Sometimes its the easy fix. This time it turned out the brake was not releasing fully. It would come off the parking brake and come most of the way back out. Took my foot and pulled on the pedal and the tractor comes alive. I was just about to order a 0-5000PSI gauge and thought I better check the obvious. Thanks for the thought.

I did grease the zirc on the brake to see if it would help. It did a little but still have to use foot to get brake fully out. Will look more into adjusting it this weekend.

Istinthot. This is a reach but could the brake be hanging up? Maybe only low gear can overpower the brake.

Does seem strange a machine with only 300 hrs. would be having HST problems.

 

[tman1020]

Istinthot. This is a reach but could the brake be hanging up? Maybe only low gear can overpower the brake. Does seem strange a machine with only 300 hrs. would be having HST problems.

Good call

 

[powerscol]

While this may take time, crawl under and use a good lube, like WD40 or equal, and go through the entire linkage, working it and removing any excess. There are some lubes that claim not to attract dirt, but all claims are not valid.

In my case once in a while I crawl under with the pressure washer, using the low pressure tip and clean all points, then lube and keep going. I try and pick a sunny day and wait 24 hours before the lube to be sure everything is dry.

I have a habit of tapping the go peddle now that I get any no start - now just a habit. At some point this old Fart will be by-passing this issue if I can figure if it is an open of closed contact. I may be **** retentive at times, but I don't need and overdose of safety to start my Tractor.

At some point common sense needs to come into play.

Thoughts?

 

[lstinthot]

I like the idea of pressure washing the underside and lubing. I have not done any more tinkering since the other day. I did have to move it and the pedal is still sticking a little. Nothing a little pull with the toe does not fix.

I am not a big fan of extra safeties. When they keep you from starting the tractor for no good reason. I like to understand how the safeties are supposed to work then understand what it means to bypass if needed.

While this may take time, crawl under and use a good lube, like WD40 or equal, and go through the entire linkage, working it and removing any excess. There are some lubes that claim not to attract dirt, but all claims are not valid.

In my case once in a while I crawl under with the pressure washer, using the low pressure tip and clean all points, then lube and keep going. I try and pick a sunny day and wait 24 hours before the lube to be sure everything is dry.

I have a habit of tapping the go peddle now that I get any no start - now just a habit. At some point this old Fart will be by-passing this issue if I can figure if it is an open of closed contact. I may be **** retentive at times, but I don't need and overdose of safety to start my Tractor.

At some point common sense needs to come into play.

Thoughts?

 

[winston1]

The pedal switch is a normally open switch as are all the other safety switches. I confess I have by passed my seat safety switch. There are too many times I want to crank up without being in the seat. I would lean toward the control pedal switch being the most important of all, at least in my case of having the seat switch disabled. I certainly wouldn't want it cranking up and on the move with me standing there and the seat switch disabled.

I have aways lubricated my garage doors with the spray penetrating oils. They seem to dry out quickly. I recently purchased a can of garage door spray lubricant. I was amazed how it silenced my door. Therefore, I sprayed it on all points of my control pedal linkage. Just thinking it is a little better than plain penetrating oil when it comes to the lubrication factor.