CT230 wont start fuel shut solenoid not moving

[scubasteve12]

I have Bobcat ct230 with 500 hours on it I shut it off and it would not start again. My first thought was that I had ran it out of fuel. I got fuel filled it up and cranked it, no start. I then cracked the injectors cranked it till they got moist and tightened up and still no start. I discovered the issues with the injection pump breaking gears on Kioti tractors/fuel shut off solenoid on this site, checked the voltage to the solenoid and it is getting voltage when the key is on. I then popped off the covers to the injection pump and am able to slide the rack back and forth with with no binding or issue. I then checked the solenoid it did not retract I called up the Kioti dealer and order a new solenoid this came with an updated plug with 3 wires small striped, large stripped, and a black with eyelet on it that I assumed was a ground wire (was supposed to come with instructions). I wired the black wire up to the negative battery terminal easiest place to put it that would fit. Then matched up the other two striped wires based on size.

Put every thing back together still wouldn't start. I then took one the injector lines off completely at the top watched it as I cranked nothing came I pulled the top cover off of the injection pump above the solenoid. and watched while I turned on and cranked the tractor. The solenoid wasn't disengaging. It did it once but it happened so fast that I did not realize that it did till after I turned of the key this was also the only time it shot fuel out missed that too. I rechecked the voltage and the small wire is getting 11-12ish voltage and the large wire is getting 3 volts when I turn the key on.

I'm not really sure what to do next, any thoughts or suggestions would be great. I thinking of pulling the solenoid and seeing if I can get it to start or at least squirt fuel, and then killing the motor by plugging the air cleaner hose to rule out the injection pump.

 

[winston1]

Schematic shows red/blue to terminal A, Yellow to terminal B, black to ground. Doubt that helps you. Test for solenoid is to check for approximately 18.6 ohm's between terminals. Doubt that helps you either but I find no more information in the manual other than how to remove it.

 

[scubasteve12]

Schematic shows red/blue to terminal A, Yellow to terminal B, black to ground. Doubt that helps you. Test for solenoid is to check for approximately 18.6 ohm's between terminals. Doubt that helps you either but I find no more information in the manual other than how to remove it.

Thanks i will trace it back.

 

[k0ua]

The solenoid has 3 wires.. pull coil, hold coil and ground.

Pull coil is activated by the fuel relay on the firewall. It is a high current, about 28 amps short duration pulse, about 1 second. The relay on the firewall is activated by ground thrown from the display unit for a 1 second duration. This sends the 12 volts to the pull coil of the solenoid for that 1 second. This causes the solenoid to activate. The hold coil is on the 12 volt key buss and the low current of the hold coil (about .75 amps) is what holds this solenoid in. When you turn the key off the hold coil is de-energized. and the solenoid relaxes under spring pressure.

The number one cause of failure is the fuel relay on the firewall. There are dozens of these threads on this forum. The vast majority are solved by replacing the fuel relay on the firewall. I don't think a single one has been solved by replacing the fuel solenoid on the injector pump.

 

[bob2299]

Can some one answer me if the solenoid fuel shut off for the Kioty is the same as the one for the Bob cat?

From what I understand the old one part number 6696694is a 2 wire and now they have a new 3 wire part number 7002157 it is price at $153.44 Canadian but they say I need a harness jumper part number 7254246 this is price at $233.89 Canadian

So today I stoped at Kioty and the gave me the part numbers for their solenoid and jumper harness
Old Kioty number is E6850-60011, 2 wire, new number E6850-60011 price at $125.73
Conversion Jumper Harness T2185-6938S001 price $23.73

And Kioty gave me the instructionsInstalling new instructions

Cause:

The engine wiring harness plug for a 2 wire Engine stop solenoid will not directly plug into a 3 wire Engine top solenoid. The conversion harness with the correct 3 wire plug must be used AND the additional wire must be grounded

Parts required:

Description : "Jump wire, 2 wire, 2 pin solenoid"
Parts #: T2185-6938S001
(Ground lug is 3 ' in length and the Red and Blue solenoid power connection are 3" in length.)

RESOLUTION:

To install the conversion harness you will need to perform the following:
1) Cut the 2 pin Engine Stop Solenoidconnector off the existing tractor harness
2) install a sufficient length of heat shrink tubing onto the cut wires.
The brink tubing will be heated and shrunk over the repair after soldering.
3) solder the smaller gauge (Red) wire from the tractor harness to the smaller gauge wire on the conversion harness ( Hold solenoid connection)
4) Solder the larger gauge ( BLUE) wirefrom the tractor harness to the larger gauge wire on the conversion harness ( Pull in solenoid connection)
5) heat the shrink tubing until solder repair are sealed.
6) Connect the ground lug on the version harness to a convenient chassis to better ground. ( The harness lead is long enough to ground at the negative battery terminal)
7) Plug the 3 pin connector into the new 3 wire Engine Stop Solenoid.

Now these are the Kioty instruction, would it work for the Bob Cat

 

[tman1020]

Well that's pretty in-depth. Only one way to find out.

 

[lstinthot]

I know this thread is a little old, but I am having crank no start issues on my CT230. It is intermittent and usually when the tractor gets hot. If the tractor sits for some time it will crank right up. Today I decided to track down the issue. I checked the voltage coming into the fuel shutdown solenoid and it would spike above 18 volts (not sure how, don't know of any transformer or capacitor in the circuit) then voltage would drop down to some random millivolt reading. I get similar response on both leads of the pigtail.

I pulled the relays off the firewall for the starter and the pull in. Both relays have 77 ohms through the coil and both show the contact open that would feed the load associated with the relay. Once I jumpered voltage across the relay coil, I was able to verify the contact would close as expected. I have 12 volts coming into the battery terminal side of the pull in relay so I would expect 12 volts to go down to the pigtail to the pull in side of the fuel shutdown solenoid.

I pulled the shutdown solenoid off the tractor and check the resistance between the terminals and I get around 17 ohms, it varies a little. I put 12 volts across the terminal that connects with the red/blue line and the plunger pulls in occasionally. Did not have enough leads to hook up to the hold side of the solenoid to see if it would hold it in. I just cycled the plunger a couple of times. After cycling it a couple of times it stopped pulling in. I am thinking the shutdown solenoid is bad. Anyone else test the shutdown solenoid in this manner and get similar results to verify the solenoid it bad? I don't really want to order a part I don't need.

The solenoid has 3 wires.. pull coil, hold coil and ground.

Pull coil is activated by the fuel relay on the firewall. It is a high current, about 28 amps short duration pulse, about 1 second. The relay on the firewall is activated by ground thrown from the display unit for a 1 second duration. This sends the 12 volts to the pull coil of the solenoid for that 1 second. This causes the solenoid to activate. The hold coil is on the 12 volt key buss and the low current of the hold coil (about .75 amps) is what holds this solenoid in. When you turn the key off the hold coil is de-energized. and the solenoid relaxes under spring pressure.

The number one cause of failure is the fuel relay on the firewall. There are dozens of these threads on this forum. The vast majority are solved by replacing the fuel relay on the firewall. I don't think a single one has been solved by replacing the fuel solenoid on the injector pump.

 

[k0ua]

The voltage spike is liable to be because you are measuring pulse and meter overshoot. The pull coil at 17 ohms does not seem right. I would expected it to be much lower. Apply 12 volts to the hold coil, it should draw less than an amp, then apply 12 volts in the form of a 1 second pulse to the pull coil. It should draw a lot of current. My manual say 28 amps. So you will need a heavy duty clip lead and only apply for 1 second. See if the coil holds in. From what you are saying since the pull coil does not always pull up reliably when 12 volts is applied, I would say the solenoid is defective. Providing your 12 volts is for sure 12 volts and not thru a high resistance so it can deliver the required pull up current. I would test it all off of the tractor with a good battery and some good clip leads.

 

[powerscol]

The other place to check is the fuses.

 

[lstinthot]

I took the solenoid into work where we hooked up the maintain side to 12 volts, pulsed the pull in side. It pulled in and maintained twice then would not pull in anymore. It would not even spark like it was trying to pull in.

Ordered one from the local kioti dealer. Hopefully they were able to cross match the part number.