My version of SkunkWerx's gauge wheels

[lhfarm]

I followed this thread http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/105732-next-project-gauge-wheels-rake.html and built my own version for my 7' rake. The plan is to add short reciever hitches ($12 each at Rural King) on my box blade and maybe my back blade. The wheels are 8" jobs from HF.

Now that I have them on the rake, what is the proper way to set them up/use them for grooming a gravel drive? I've been traveling for work and am on my way out of town again, so haven't been able to give them a proper test.

Thanks,

 

[GaryM]

Instead of adding a receiver hitch, you could just use a piece of steel tube with a 2" inside measurement. The 2" tube would just slide right in.

Receiver hitch's are reinforced around the outside at the rear, but for gauge wheels I'd think it unnecessary.

As far as adjustment, I'm guessing you'd adjust your draft arms, then crank the gauge wheels up or down to adjust the "depth of cut". I'd also have the top link disconnected or on a swinging link so the rake can pivot on the hitch pins.

 

[lhfarm]

Instead of adding a receiver hitch, you could just use a piece of steel tube with a 2" inside measurement. The 2" tube would just slide right in.

Receiver hitch's are reinforced around the outside at the rear, but for gauge wheels I'd think it unnecessary.

You are correct. But getting steel is a real hassle where I am located. I just about have to take a day off work. The only local supplier isn't open on the weekends. So I spend the extra money just to be able to get the job done. The 2x2x1/4 was left over from another project (BH dolly) and I wasn't smart enough to buy a length of reciever steel when I purchased it.

 

[Kendall69]

Great work, and you have inspired me. My question is why the wheels.
I have a rake with no wheels am I missing something?
I can see that yes you can adjust the wheels to keep the rake at a certain level, but doesn't the rear hydraulics keep the rake up off the ground?

What I find more often than not with my rake id that objects keep pushing through the rake, almost like I would love to weld a rod along all the tines to keep then from allowing debris to flow through.

 

[3RRL]

Kendall,
The reason for the wheels is so you can put your 3pt all the way down or "float" and let the wheels on the rake follow the contour of the ground. If you use the tractors 3pt to set the height of the rake, and you are going over dips, this is what happens... when you are in a dip and the front (tractor) wheels go up the slope, the rake digs down more in the back. When your fronts go over the dip and down the slope, the rake goes up into the air. Does that make sense? With the wheels you can put the 3pt in "float" and let the wheels determine the level from the ground.
Maybe that's one reason you're losing some debris too?

 

[SkunkWerX]

lhfarm,

Great JOB!! Looks like a winner. I think you are ahead of the game using pre-made swivel rollers, if I did it again, I would skip fabricating my own.

Another part about using the 2" receiver material (which I didn't do) is that you don't have to deal with the internal seam of standard square tube.
I had to use my die grinder to get in there and knock down the seam.

As far as your adjustments, I'm not going to be the expert on this, since I am only doing dirt work and my drive is paved, but.......

If you are only grooming the gravel, I'd try it with the wheels about 1/2" to 1" UP, in other words, only allowing the tines to touch the top 1 inch of gravel.
See how it does.

If you are trying to get a crown in the middle of your drive, then angle the rake, and allow the outboard tines to dig in about 2 inches (Wheels 2" up), and the ones that are near the center line to barely touch. This should give enough Bite, and pull material toward the center.

I think there are variables like the size of the gravel, the type of gravel, existing conditions, etc. etc. etc. that are going to dictate some "Trail and Error" method.

With most attachments, I tend to start with the least amount of engagement to the surface, and then keep adjusting toward more aggressive engagement, until I get it where I want it. This comes from gouging my share of boo-boos across the land....

My last word of advice, is always lower the rake/wheels down onto the surface gently, so as not to bend or stress the arms.

Let us know how it goes. More pics too!

I LIKE IT!!

 

[BobReeves]

looks like what I did back in 03.. Wheels still holding up fine, did have to tighten the bolts holding the rims together but seem to be holding now.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...sion-gauge-wheels.html?highlight=gauge+wheels

 

[have_blue]

Great stuff IHFarm! Well done!

I always thought that a box blade could benefit from gage wheels at certain times. Also a FEL could benefit from them for skimming loose dirt off the top of the ground without worrying about gouging.

 

[SkunkWerX]

looks like what I did back in 03.. Wheels still holding up fine, did have to tighten the bolts holding the rims together but seem to be holding now.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...sion-gauge-wheels.html?highlight=gauge+wheels

BobReeves!
It was your project that I got my idea from, thanks!!

Imitation is the greatest form of flattery. Others simply calling it "stealing an idea" , but that sounds so sinister.

Thanks again, your ingenuity lives on.

 

[diyDave]

But you both stole it from me, that's the same setup I put on my V snowplow to keep it from digging in too far, back in about 2000, AD, oh well another unpatented money loser idea! Good job though!