Ditch digger

[3RRL]

David,
I wouldn't worry too much about stressing the lower drag links or mounts. They are probably a lot stronger than you think. I know mine are always pulling on one side with the box blade tilted severely to cut ditches. Pushing with them is another thing, though.

I would make a simple attachment that fits on the side of your box blade...something like the shape of your box blade ... like if it was wider. Then tilt the heck out of it and try cutting the "groove" that way. IMHO, you've got plenty of tractor to do that. Even a conservative groove turns into a nice gutter once the water starts flowing in it.
(You've seen my gutter cutting pictures right?)

[tommu56]

David,

what about taking your box blade and adding another draw bar point on the left side frame and another a frame from the it would look like this AA__ which would shift box blade to the right most position, with draw bars and top link in left most A.

Rob I thought you would have built one like that by now.

I' going away for a few days when I get back maybe I could sketch some thing up


tom

[sandman2234]

If your pushing gravel and you hit an immovable object, out at the edge of the bucket, there is a good chance your going to put a twist in the loader frame. Simple twisting motion is what causes that. The lower the hp of the tractor, the less it would matter, but unfortunately the manufacturers know this, and build the frames lighter on the smaller tractors. More weight and faster speeds also cause twisted loader frames.
I think the best way is to do the pull cart/frame, or as another poster mentioned, put a restraining chain on it to keep it from pulling beyond the 3pt arms capabilities. 3pt arms are great for what they are made for, and will suffer some abuse without fail, but they aren't cheap if you make a mistake and they aren't built to handle side to side motions, only pulling loads.
David from jax

All this from a guy who doesn't own a loader, lol!!
David

[sandman2234]

3RRL,
I know I am a worry wart, but those arms aren't cheap, and the people down that road aren't going to pay for them if I bend them.

Tom,
I understand what you mean, but rather than weld up another upright on my box blade, I will probably just fab another bar with mounts on it. I am a packrat when it comes to steel, and have quite a selection to choose from if I decide to use some of it.
David from jax

[MrJimi]

Originally Posted by sandman2234

3RRL,
I am a packrat when it comes to steel, and have quite a selection to choose from if I decide to use some of it.
David from jax

He's right on that one, I've seen his goodie pile, It's measured in acres at his home
Jim

[BTDT]

I think you need something like this. It will support itself behind your tractor being pulled from the drawbar, then you let down the plow into the ditch and take off.

Yesterday's Tractors - Implement Photos

[SkunkWerX]

I think I would try a grader blade (or the Box balde with modified side wing) tip it down to the ditch-side.
Only extend it sideways enough to get to the area you are trying to cut.
A wide blade may not even need to be off-set.

I would take only about 2 inches at a time, each pass,
and of course, take it slowly.

Sounds like the worst you would hit might be a tree root?

Alternate idea: Make an accesory for your grader or boxblade, that hangs off to the side. Use steel that would bend before your implement or tractor took any strain. In otherwords, "under" build a cheap accesory that would take the brunt of any unforeseen hazard.

[2manyrocks]

I think SkunkwerX has a good suggestion. Either use something that will bend before tearing up your tractor or use a shear pin that will break off.

[sandman2234]

BTDT,
Thanks for posting the picture, but that one won't work in my case, as the trees are too close to the ditch, and that one had outboard wheels on it that require a little wider spacing. I have been considering just moving the ditch over a foot, as that would be the easy way out of this.
SkunkWerx,
Your idea is closer to what I will probably do, just under built it so it bends and not my 3pt. I don't mind donating a piece of metal, but the lift arms aren't going to be a donor to this project.
David from jax

[2manyrocks]

I had a lightweight plow point attached in place of one of my digging bars on the landscape box to clear out the ditch. The landscape box was wide enough that I was just barely able to work the ditch. I liked the way it worked until I bent it so badly it was useless. So, the suggestion for a shear pin came to mind having personally spent my time in building something too light that I later wrecked.

But then I overbuilt another gizmo that just didn't work right from the start.

I hope you come out better.