Homemade Box Blade

   / Homemade Box Blade #1  

ovrszd

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Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
Can you guys look at this blueprint and tell me where I'm offtrack before I start??? Please excuse the crude drawings. It's an Acrobat Reader document. Thanks in advance.
 
   / Homemade Box Blade #2  
I didn't get a chance to view the PDF, (my system hates PDFs for some reason it locks up firefox every time :(

anyhow a box blade is one of those items that seems to be cheaper to BUY than to make. I know a lot of people make them simply to get welding/fab time in but a box blade has to absorb TONS of abuse. Usually factory welds are better than the ave home/farm owner. I build similar stuff at work all the time and I went & bought a BB simply due to for 250 bucks I got a good one. (this was 7 yrs ago) and my time effort/materials would have cost a lot more than that...

you still would have to buy rippers as well which are pretty high, in fact at the time almost 1/3 of the cost of my NEW BB would have been rippers to buy them, SO figuring I spent 2 hrs going & getting one, for 250, It I built one it would have taken 3 days say, 100 bucks in materials and rippers are ~30 each so that is 5 rippers = 150 more bucks that is right at the 250 mark :) to me it was a no brainer...

(that was not including cutting edges as my bought one uses simple flat stock not the actual cutting edge material...)

Mark M
 
   / Homemade Box Blade
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Very good points. All of which I've thought about. I've got most of the materials on hand, but still have to consider the cost of those materials. I haven't priced scarifiers yet but hadn't figured on them being that expensive. As I look at these issues I may decide you are right.

I could buy a good used one, then modify it to have hydraulic lift scarifiers and maybe end up cheaper than building from scratch.

I don't figure my time investment at all. It's therapy to me. I'm positive I can build one stronger than a boughten $250 new one. Just not sure I can do it cheaper. Good points though Mark.
 
   / Homemade Box Blade #4  
Hi Richard,
Another neat project I see.:)
Although Mark is right about possible cost savings, there's no substitution for getting the self satisfaction of making your own box. Plus it's a little harder to re-design an existing boxblade to get the hydraulic lifting feature for the scarifiers you want...but it can be done.

A couple of things I would consider with your design, and this is only a suggestion, not a critique mind you.
Since you know that a boxblade's performance is all about weight, I would thicken up every single component. Not just for the added strength and resistance to abuse, but for the added weight. That will make your boxblade perform better in every way of use...from ripping to digging and smoothing etc. So I would consider going from 1/4" thick plates to at least 3/8" if not thicker. And so on for the other thickness plates and bars. Even your 3pt attachment. (Just my 2 cents)

Another thing to consider is what kind of scarifiers you will use. Some have the holes in them for positioning and others have slots cut out. I've found the ones sold at Agri-Supply are inexpensive and very durable. I got the ones with the holes in them because I bent and broke the ones with slots right at the slots. It is a natural weak point in the shank, whereas the holes are not as much.

If possible, could you show a section view from the side? Like if you were to remove the Left or Right side plate. I'd like to see how you are going to make the scarifiers work with the pivot and hydraulics.
Thanks,
 
   / Homemade Box Blade #5  
Change the 1/4 flat bar stuff to 1/2. at least I would.
And the 18' measurement on your 3pt to the top link...
Put a 1 1/4'' round rod at 15 inches. then you can use the bottom pin holes on a quick hitch if you have one and still use th 3/4 hole above that to hook straight up to your tractor if you don't have one.
I also think that 3 inches is too wide at the top of the 3pt. 2" is plenty.

Just my opinion.

Actually, I didn't understand your drawing completely.
What is the distance , from bottom to top, from the center of your lift pins to the center of your top link pin?

the 18" looks to be an over all measurement.
 
   / Homemade Box Blade #6  
You have more drawing than I did when I made my rollover.:D I second the heavier materials Make sure you know what size your scarifiers are before you start since that will be purchased you kind of have to work around the size that they come in. For me that was not a problem--I cannot find them here.:rolleyes:

One thing I noticed is that if at all possible it is best if you can put a bend or two in the blade itself to give the effect of a curved blade. It gives you a better angle for cutting. about 20 degrees is good.

If you are curious--here is my efforts at building a box. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/99596-rollover-scraper-minimum.html?highlight=roll+box

If you have access to a dealer with different boxes take a look and copy what you think is good.

Mike
 
   / Homemade Box Blade #8  
Here is what we did at work to make suitable blade to level caliche in the back of our yard. Took a piece of 16" 1/2" wall pipe and split it in half, ground bottom edge with a grinder at an angle. On the top edge we took a piece of 1/4"x 6" flat and cut triangle notches in it. Welded and braced it to top of pipe half. On back side of pipe half we welded rectangle tube for forklift forks to fit.
When the caliche gets packed hard and is in rough shape we loosen it with the V and then flip it over to smooth it out. I would think the same concept could be applied to a tractor pulled implement. Might have add a weight tray and depth control skids/wheels tho.
 
   / Homemade Box Blade #9  
I would go the used route but I would only look at either Gannon or a Cammond, the weight will already be there.
I am sure there are several of these mechanical ones around that can be converted to hydraulic.
 
   / Homemade Box Blade #10  
bx24 said:
Oversized

Check out this site for some scarfacers

ASC # 45646 Box Shank

Or, to save S&H you can drop by your local TSC.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_48603_______14345|14346|14347|14348|48603?listingPage=true
 
 
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