Need to make up a sub soiler, what angle for the ripper tooth?

[Blagadan]

Hi Guys, I need a sub soiler for Thursday/Friday and I plan to weld something up over the next day or two. I have all the bits and stock iron I need at home.
My question is what angle should I make the ripper tooth? Agressive, slight or does it matter?

 

[MrJimi]

I've been thinking about doing the same thing. The angle you have looks fine to me, I would make sure it will go deep enough for your needs and also make a provision to bolt a plow at the bottom for various other projects
Good luck on the project build
Jim

 

[djradz]

Looks OK, but I think you'll find some are more horizontal, possibly so the point is not constantly strongly pulling deeper. Take a look at KK's or others.

Also, isn't the attachment point (about half-way down) on you diagram flipped around?

 

[Blagadan]

isn't the attachment point (about half-way down) on you diagram flipped around?

I dont think so? I want to make the lower draw bar(from lower link to lower link) out of 3in heavy gauge box iron. I figured having the shank in front of the drawbar would not put as much pressure on the welds and instead, have the shank pushing back against the cross member as it drags through the soil. I might even weld on some heavy angle iron and bolt the shank on instead of welding it... Not sure yet. Want to have it flexible.
Looking at the drawing, the aspect might be a bit strange looking but I want to have the top link directly above the lower link attachment points.

Do you see a flaw in my design? I only want to do this once! is there a stronger way to do it?

 

[jjmarotz]

Here's the one I made last fall. It has a 30 degree point with the ripper point on and a 45 degree with the plow point. To adjust the angle, remove the two lower bolts, loosten the upper one and it pivots to either angle, then reinstall lower 2 bolts and tighten. Very versatile in that I don't need a seperate sub-soiler and a seperate plow.
Shank is 1"x5" welded to 3"x3"x3/16" angle iron, with 1/2"x2" flat stock as the rest of the frame.
The adjustable point was made from 2- 1/4" plates with the foremost point being welded with 1"x1/4" flat stock to make it one pc.
Lots of tack welds were used to hold the shank and side pcs in line for drilling, then cut the tacks and adjust the point and repeat until all holes were aligned.
Pulled it last fall at 16" deep with no hickups. One other thing to remember is that your top link can change your angle as well. Can get you more info and measures if you need.

 

[Soundguy]

Measure one at TSC.. let the implement co. engineers do the work for you.

soundguy

 

[Blagadan]

Measure one at TSC.. let the implement co. engineers do the work for you.

soundguy

Oh, I wish I had a TSC nearby, I really do.
Unfortunately my local agri supplier can get a cat1 subsoiler but he has a 4 week leadtime.

Thanks for the pics jjmarotz, really helpful. I like your adjustable tooth design, nice.

 

[RobJ]

Oh, I wish I had a TSC nearby, I really do.
Unfortunately my local agri supplier can get a cat1 subsoiler but he has a 4 week leadtime.

Thanks for the pics jjmarotz, really helpful. I like your adjustable tooth design, nice.

Next best thing...find a picture of one and use it. But your looks about right.

 

[jjmarotz]

No problem Blagadan. I got the point measure from my dad who has the KK sub-soiler and his was roughly 30 degrees. The rest of the adjustable point deal came to me as I was building it. I had all the steel on hand and thought what the heck, let's try it, if the adj point don't work then make it solid and then make the plow later. Turns out it worked better than I imagined. Gotta love that.
If I need a steeper or shallower angle on either point, adjust the top link to compensate. The link can change the degree infinitely. Just remember the longer your top link is, the more stress is applied to the threads, as in you don't have too many threads to hold things solid and tight. Thus resulting in your link turning into a U-bolt shape.
The steeper point on a sub-soiler is meant to "lift" the hard pan and shatter it vs the plow that doesn't reach that far down into the soil. Make sure you do it when things are dry or you will only make trenches and not improve your soil drainage. Most sub-soiling is done in the fall so the winter and spring moisture is absorbed into the ground vs runoff. Hope this helps. JJ out.

 

[Blagadan]

Thanks jj, just one more q if you dont mind, how long is the shank from top to bottom?

tks,

blag