fel bucket has a bow in it

[bobodu]

If the tractor's hydraulics bent the thing...they can unbend it.A heavy piece of chain and a chunk of log in the proper spot (wherever that might be) then tilt the bucket.

[Drylander]

My recommendation is to stiffen the the bucket up so it won't bend again. You can buy a 6" x 1/2" beveled barstock piece and weld it under the buckets cutting edge. (the bevel will extend the edge out slightly). That will make your cutting edge thicker and more stout. First, bend it back as close as you can get it. Then clamp and tack it in place. Then you can weld it up solid on top and stitched from the bottom overlap. You may want to stiffen up the top and bucket sides now too.
There is probably a local source for barstock in your area. I'll attach a link (I read about on here) that is in my area. I need to do the same to mine before I bend it.

Good luck and hope this helps..

Discount Steel - Hot Roll Beveled Cutting Edge

[have_blue]

Originally Posted by jinmared

I put a bow in my FEL bucket while picking up logs.
Does any one have any ideas of how to make my bucket straight again.
thanks

Sad, isn't it?

That's because the tractor manufacturers are too stingy to use tougher steel. They use CRS or HRS, which has zero spring back. Just a little harder alloy would be more proper for the application. Just a little harder and the edge would be all but impossible to bend, and only a little more expensive to buy.

I fixed my warped edge by pushing against a stump. Lucked out and got it perfect on 1 try.

I'm tempted to weld a big ole truck leaf spring to my new bucket. I bet THAT would spring back.

[fiddler kelly]

Yeah I have a slight bend in mine too but from past experiences with welding and seeing how it can cause metal to bed I think I will weld on the bottom of the bucket and when the weld cools this should cause the metal to shrink as it cools on the convex side of the bend thus straightening the bend .

[have_blue]

Originally Posted by fiddler kelly

Yeah I have a slight bend in mine too but from past experiences with welding and seeing how it can cause metal to bed I think I will weld on the bottom of the bucket and when the weld cools this should cause the metal to shrink as it cools on the convex side of the bend thus straightening the bend .

While you're at it, maybe weld wide and deep with 7018 rod. I bet that would give the edge a lot more strength and spring back.

Hope you're better at welding on a vertical surface than me!

[fiddler kelly]

Well I got at the loader to straighten the bow out with my welder and after the first couple of runs I thought I was going no where but then it started to come together . There was a dip in the loader of about1/2 to 3/4 of an inch in the center now I must say it is much improved.

I will leave the welding on it till the winter when I need it for snow clearing then I will grind the welding of the bottom of it.

I was wonder what a leaf spring would be like for re enforcing the bottom of the bucket have the thinest part of the spring out towards the edge of the loader and then cut it the length you need for the depth of the loader. Have two of them and weld them to the inside of the loader. Divide the loader up into thirds for the spacing of the springs. you would only need one spring to do the job.

[Flatheadyoungin]

Do you have any before pics? That looks pretty good.....what did you do, just run lots of heat and some 7018 rod?

I got a steel workbench one time. The top surface was 1/4" steel. About that same time, I got a new torch set with a huge rose bud. It was about 20 degrees out one evening and I was playing with the torch. For just a second or two, I aimed the rose bud at to the center of the 1/4" work surface. I saw it turn red pretty quickly but when my eyes adjusted, the steel had drawn toward the heat- and not just a little, it was a pretty good sized area and raised at least 2". It look like a pimple sticking up. I thought I ruined it. However, as it cooled, most of the "pimple" went away. Some stayed, however. So, I've been wondering it that would work.

Originally Posted by fiddler kelly

Well I got at the loader to straighten the bow out with my welder and after the first couple of runs I thought I was going no where but then it started to come together . There was a dip in the loader of about1/2 to 3/4 of an inch in the center now I must say it is much improved.

I will leave the welding on it till the winter when I need it for snow clearing then I will grind the welding of the bottom of it.

I was wonder what a leaf spring would be like for re enforcing the bottom of the bucket have the thinest part of the spring out towards the edge of the loader and then cut it the length you need for the depth of the loader. Have two of them and weld them to the inside of the loader. Divide the loader up into thirds for the spacing of the springs. you would only need one spring to do the job.

[fiddler kelly]

No I should have taken some you could see the difference .Hard to say how it would work on your table .Do you have a piece of plate to try it on first.

[have_blue]

Originally Posted by fiddler kelly

two of them and weld them to the inside of the loader. Divide the loader up into thirds for the spacing of the springs. you would only need one spring to do the job.

The springs perpendicular to the edge would probably help a little. You see some runners similar to what you mentioned on heavy duty buckets.

Kelley I bet your edge will be a little harder to bend next time. I bet that weld you applied is much tougher than cold rolled or hot rolled steel (CRS or HRS).

It's such a shame to have to figure how to straighten and strengthen bucket edges. My old bucket (on a Woods loader) never bent, so it was obviously made from a tougher alloy. My NH 16LA was very weak, and my Kubota (still brand new) will bend if I just look at it. I know that because I saw one bent at the dealer.

[Maine_Polack]

The "Skidda" has a lot of down pressure. Still had to cut some slots to make the bucket edge straight. It's an inch thick.