Can I dig my own water well?

[Cidertom]

Since I want to do a similar project I surely enjoy the discussion. My "well" is going to be a buried gravel drain from the nearby creek. Since the water table is going to be high it will be within the range of a surface mounted pump. I did a similar install a while back and could reliably suck to about 12 ft once it was primed (don't skimp on the footvalve). This type would enable a drive point well.

The why I'm not going to do a "real" well: In Oregon going below 10' requires a well drillers permit and bond. Since the location is going to be exposed and I don't want to buy the insurance ... I will be digging a trench from the creek and filling it with open gravel to allow the water to flow while giving it some filtering from crud floating down the creek. Oregon has some of the most restrictive laws re: wells. Can't use drive points with out a surface casing and seal. Casing has to be at least 1 ft above surface. Can't use below grade connections (pitless connectors)... rules as thick as a small novel.

[Egon]

Can't use below grade connections (pitless connectors)... rules as thick as a small novel.

Must get interesting if you have cold weather!

[MikeD74T]

Cidertom, Browsing the Oregon Water rules Oregon State Archives: Oregon Administrative Rules - Water Resources Department ,
they don't seem unreasonable considering they apply to providing a source for & protecting drinking water. No more intensive than septic rules just about everywhere. There are multiple requirements when pitless adapters are used but the only restriction against a pitless I see is when using PVC well casing.

I don't see that driving a point for nonpotable water for your own use on your own land is prohibitted. If you look at the rules for removing basin (river or lake) water you're no less vulnerable to scrutiny with your current plan as well as far more visable. MikeD74T

[WarrenF]

Originally Posted by bx24

I thought about doing it this way. I am assuming you get a nice mud shower, but what the heck, the price is right. I wonder if you could rig some chains or straps hanging on both sides of the top of the pipe and use the FEL to put down pressure on pipe. I think I would be temped to try digging a hole as far as I can down to the water table and try this method to go the rest of the way. Would it make sense to drill holes in the side of the pipe near the bottom to increase water flow from the sides, or would this simply make the sand go through and silt up the bottom faster? Now I just need a well so I can have a source of water to use to make the well ......

I would put holes or slots in the bottom of the pipe. Depending on your soil, my friend said the pipe will just simply go down. You will get wet but what the heck, the price is right. If you need to go deeper when the first section of pipe gets to about ground level....stop and weld another pipe length on and keep going.

[excelagator]

My father dug two wells by hand when I was real little in Florida. One was a test in our backyard in a subdivision the other was on our property. Both had hand pumps.

I do know some near me that drove a well much the same way, but was much further down.

Dan

[excelagator]

Originally Posted by Cidertom

The why I'm not going to do a "real" well: In Oregon going below 10' requires a well drillers permit and bond. Since the location is going to be exposed and I don't want to buy the insurance ...

I would think there would be a fine for redirecting a creek??

Dan

[bx24]

Originally Posted by Jimbrown

That is a 1200 gallon tank. te other well has a 2200 tank on it. Those spindly legs are 6in pipe.

Jim, I knew they were six inch pipes for legs on your tank .... Arn't your chickens like ours with big thighs!

I am going to have to do some investigation here in IN to see what the rules are for some of this stuff. I would have thought PVC casing would be preferred in this day and age but who knows.

Either way, thanks everyone ... I have learned a lot so far.

[Skyco]

Originally Posted by Cidertom

In Oregon going below 10' requires a well drillers permit and bond. Since the location is going to be exposed and I don't want to buy the insurance ... I will be digging a trench from the creek and filling it with open gravel to allow the water to flow while giving it some filtering from crud floating down the creek. Oregon has some of the most restrictive laws re: wells. Can't use drive points with out a surface casing and seal. Casing has to be at least 1 ft above surface. Can't use below grade connections (pitless connectors)... rules as thick as a small novel.

I was looking at a DIY well on my property in NC. Apparently one cannot legally do any well drilling yourself, at least in the county I'm in if not the whole durn state....

[Cidertom]

Originally Posted by excelagator

I would think there would be a fine for redirecting a creek??

Dan

As long as I use it for livestock watering (which is the intent) I don't even need a water right. I won't be damming the creek just drawing from it. I want to keep the critters off of the creek bank. I don't have enough drop for a ram pump and solar is a bit iffy in my part of Oregon, but almost everyday I get a few hours of wind up or down the draw.

[Cidertom]

Originally Posted by Egon

Must get interesting if you have cold weather!

Lots of insulated and or heated well head covers. When I tried to get a pitless last time I was told "fine, as long as the hole is one foot above grade...".