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#1 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 405
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Ok, here's our new adventure. Since I generally have my backhoe loaded. I needed a way to rake up limbs, leaves etc. Unfortunatly, my first idea ran into an unexpected problem. I was using springs from an old trampoline with rebar on the end. After welding on 30 springs, we find out that welding on them makes them very brittle.
Brought me to an abrupt end.Sooo, remembering a fellow tbn'r had used rake tines, off to Atwoods we go. We got 30 tines at 1.49 each. Here's some pics...
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Please resize your pictures before uploading them. Try ImageResizer from Microsoft for free... Image Resizer Thereafter, just right-click an image and choose "resize". It's that easy! NE Oklahoma, ck30 kioti BH w/thumb, Broken FEL, toothbar, box blade. JD 60" brush hog. My Photo's |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Schenectady, NY
Posts: 384
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Nice, plus it adds some nice character to the FEL
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98 JD 1070 (573 hrs), 440 JD Loader, 8B JD Back Hoe, 5' King Kutter Rotary Cutter, 6' King Kutter Landscape Rake, 7' King Kutter Back Blade, 6' Farm Force Box Blade, Custom Design/Built Grapple, Farm Force PHD w/ 9" & 12" Augers |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 405
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It's u-shaped to fit on the bucket edge and Hooks to the bucket like a toothbar does.
Here's some pics. It was a success, and a faulure. It works, and it breaks tines. As the back wheels run over stuff, the FEL experience movement. I'm temp mounting guage wheels to see how that pans out. Pics below are of area needing to be raked, and the areas after two passes.. The project is still under developement. ![]()
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Please resize your pictures before uploading them. Try ImageResizer from Microsoft for free... Image Resizer Thereafter, just right-click an image and choose "resize". It's that easy! NE Oklahoma, ck30 kioti BH w/thumb, Broken FEL, toothbar, box blade. JD 60" brush hog. My Photo's |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sierra Nevada Mtns
Posts: 304
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rcrcomputing
I am very surprised that you have broken the tines. I've been running mine now for 8 years on 5 oak and pine acres, probably at least 120+ hours, and have never broken one tine. I have considered them to be extremely sturdy. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/b...ake-cheap.html I think you must have put too much down pressure on the FEL. Your gauge wheels should be a good solution to prevent this in the future. On my rake the hitch "bottoms out" so the tines are only engaged about one or two inches below grade depth. When raking they are almost vertical. The function of the flexible rubber tine is to skip over unmovable objects like large exposed roots or rocks. Then the tine will angle back 45 to 60 degrees, no trouble, no breakage. Let us know how the gauge wheels work. Don't give up. Once you work out the bugs I'm sure you'll love the rake as much as I do mine and use it a lot. I've gotten so proficient driving it I rarely pull out a hand rake any more. My method is to leaf blow next to the house and shop and a few other tight spots then do 98% - 99% of my raking with the tractor, including pushing up fairly substantial brush piles. I can now rake and pile at a rate of 45min to 1hr/acre. I do it a few times a year because it is so easy. I also use it in reverse to "feed" burning brush piles from adjacent piles. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Port Angeles WA
Posts: 1,837
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That is funny, I am working on something similar right now to add to my FEL. I am using spring steel tines from agri-supply that are about $2.49 each when you buy 10 or more. My rake bar will attach to the bucket pivots and will swing back out of the way when pushing forward with the bucket. I am going to incorporate a latch mechanism that will hold them in this stowed position when not needed. When back rakeing, I will dump the bucket edge to act as a gauge wheel to keep the weight of the FEL from crushing the tines.
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Ron |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sierra Nevada Mtns
Posts: 304
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RonMar,
You may want to reconsider your design. If I understand your principle... When back raking you'll be limited by by your undercarriage (more accurately the distance from the back of your loader to your front tires) as to the "load" you can pull. In no time your rakings will be under the front tires. On the Wards unit I was amazed at how much more I could rake when going in reverse and pushing the load behind me. My rake was designed as a rear mounted pull rake so I push in reverse. Yours is a front mounted pull rake that you'd pull in reverse but you would be better, IMHO, to push going forward. BTW, Love the area you live. Seriously considered buying a place up there 20 years ago before the boss made me an offer I couldn't refuse. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Port Angeles WA
Posts: 1,837
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Yep, that will be a limitation, but considering with my terrain, that I very rarely can back up more than 20 or 30 feet anyway, I don't think it will hinder me too much
I have already used my fork bucket like this, but when back rakeing, it moves along too much soil. The main idea is to use this in conjunction with my fork bucket to sonsolidate the dispersed material so I can pick it up with the fork bucket. When I try and pick up the spread out little stuff with the fork, it again picks up too much soil. Since this will be hung off the loader pins, It can stay on the bucket arms all the time, ready to swing down at the pull of a lever and be used for light grooming work. For my situation, I think it will work OK.
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Ron |
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