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#1 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: SE Denver
Posts: 219
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I know there have been zillions of bucket hook posts, but this is my first post in the Build-It Yourself forum, so please just indulge me with this.
I have the JD light-duty bucket on a 522 loader. I measured the main bucket chassis at only about .16" thick so I figured the 1/4" pads were mandatory. There was a previous post where the builder only removed the paint where the weld was applied instead of completely under the pad. He ended up having to grind the hooks off, grind the rest of the paint off, and then re-weld the hooks. I took that bit of wisdom from him -- Thanks again TBN!! Factory John Deere paint is good stuff. I use a very aggressive wire wheel cup attached to a 4.5" angle grinder. Most paint doesn't stand a chance with this setup, but the bucket took a lot of work to get the the paint off. The pad to bucket welds are a bit discontiguous. That is because I welded them on in six sections with some cooling time in between to prevent warpage. I learned that lesson a few years ago welding on my Samurai. Anyway, I might be buying a set of Toyota pickup axles to put under my Samurai. If this works out, the hooks will be employed lifting axles off the trailer.
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JD 5303 with 522 Loader, CAT I iMatch, Frontier RC1072 Cutter, 7.5' KK Disc Harrow, 7' Road Boss Grader JD 110H with Snow Blade, Mower Deck Last edited by Wombat125; 07-28-2008 at 01:17 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 167
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Just to reduce my ignorance on the placing of these hooks, why are they so far apart? Why not for instance put them on the strengthened section closer to the centre?
I appreciate that the current position is strong as it is near the sides and allows two chains to pick up long objects.With the width as it is, if you want to pick up something on a single chain, you need to attach to both hooks and have a deep V or there is a lot of inwards pull. Is there a preferred spacing? Cityfarma
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Kubota L4400 & FEL, 9 point spring tyne harrow, 33 acres of sanity. |
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#5 (permalink) | |||
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Silver Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: SE Denver
Posts: 219
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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JD 5303 with 522 Loader, CAT I iMatch, Frontier RC1072 Cutter, 7.5' KK Disc Harrow, 7' Road Boss Grader JD 110H with Snow Blade, Mower Deck |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Foothills of the Giant Sequoia's, California
Posts: 5,794
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Always nice to see another set of bucket hooks. They look great.
Regarding placement, many guys choose a spot that is most accessible for their needs and then another in the middle. Others angle them inward a bit. Personally, I chose to place mine in line with the loader arm attachment. I thought it would help offer some stability if I ever have to use only one hook. I also angled mine inward towards each other, figuring I would always use both hooks, not just one. The other concern would be not to have the chain slip off the side accidentally. What's most important is to have some sort of plate underneath the hook to help distribute the force so they don't tear off under load. And that they are secure with good welds. Looks to me you did a fine job on your hooks, Richard.
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Rob- ...The Older I get...the Better I Used to be... |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,808
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I had a single hook on each end of the top of my 4720 bucket and they worked good. I was thinking of putting 2 hooks on each end next time. One facing forward and one facing back. I have had times where the chain fell off and this would help prevent that.
Comments? D.
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------ Darin Divinia Red Oak, Texas Registered Texas Longhorns www.thediamonddranch.com JD 5525, JD 4720, JD 467, Polaris Ranger Crew, etc. |
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