Kitchen renovation--NEED HELP w. joist!!

gacuri · 08-28-2008, 06:59 PM

Can someone please help me with this question? My kitchen renovation may need to have a drain vent pipe relocated through few existing structural wood joists. Is that safe to do? The joists are 2x10 and the pipe is 1-1/2" the hole on the joist would be 2". Thanks!!!

Aguanga · 08-28-2008, 07:22 PM

Building a house right now, but I'm using TJI's which provide A LOT more flexibility with holes. In the past, i had always been told to use the one-third rule on conventional 2x joists. It meant not to drill within one-third of the ends of the joist lengthwise and not to drill in the top or bottom third of the joist.

Hopefully someone else can confirm or reject this...

Timber · 08-28-2008, 07:35 PM

Post a picture of the area lets see what your options are

bobodu · 08-28-2008, 07:40 PM

You'd be fine.

davitk · 08-28-2008, 08:18 PM

With solid lumber, the holes must be no closer than 2" from the top or bottom of the joist, and a maximum of 1/3 the joist depth (2x10 = 3 1/8" hole). Also, no notching in the middle 1/3 of the joist span.

KEEP AN EYE ON THOSE DARN PLUMBERS!!

Charlesaf3 · 08-28-2008, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davitk

With solid lumber, the holes must be no closer than 2" from the top or bottom of the joist, and a maximum of 1/3 the joist depth (2x10 = 3 1/8" hole). Also, no notching in the middle 1/3 of the joist span.

KEEP AN EYE ON THOSE DARN PLUMBERS!!

You've got your answer here.

Pay special attention to the stuff in all caps. I like to ask my plumber what the difference between a plumber and termites is - answer, termites tend to do much less structural damage.

CurlyDave · 08-29-2008, 01:27 AM

The answer is more complex than anything you have so far.

What is the span of the joist?

If you are near the maximum span for the joist, davitk's answer is good. If the span is less than maximum, you have considerably more leeway in the holes, notches, etc. that you can cut.

Charlesaf3 · 08-29-2008, 11:19 AM

true, but without getting into engineering tables, davitks answer is a safe one.

Whitey · 08-29-2008, 01:03 PM

Without re-inventing the wheel I would say that if you are concerned about the hole size or it's location.....here is what I would do. You can add structural full depth bridging to both sides of the opening tying the punched joist to the joists at either side or.....you can make a cleat out of 3/4" plywood that spans 32" inches in either direction of the hole centered on both sides of the joist. Glue / screw it to reinforce the area then drill your hole. The plywood will help reinforce the area that is to be punched. Be sure to make the cleats large enough or they will be useless.

I recently added cleats to both sides of a purlin / hanging truss affair in my 100 year old shop so the ceiling would handle the weight of type X drywall, insulation and a USG ceiling grid. Worked great.

JD 770 / 70 FEL / 7 BH - 425 AWS / 54" MMM / 54" FMP

Cord · 09-01-2008, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davitk

With solid lumber, the holes must be no closer than 2" from the top or bottom of the joist, and a maximum of 1/3 the joist depth (2x10 = 3 1/8" hole). Also, no notching in the middle 1/3 of the joist span.

This is the text book perfect response.

08-28-2008, 06:59 PM	#1 (permalink)
gacuri New Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 1	Kitchen renovation--NEED HELP w. joist!! Can someone please help me with this question? My kitchen renovation may need to have a drain vent pipe relocated through few existing structural wood joists. Is that safe to do? The joists are 2x10 and the pipe is 1-1/2" the hole on the joist would be 2". Thanks!!!

08-28-2008, 07:22 PM	#2 (permalink)
Aguanga Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 29	Re: Kitchen renovation--NEED HELP w. joist!! Building a house right now, but I'm using TJI's which provide A LOT more flexibility with holes. In the past, i had always been told to use the one-third rule on conventional 2x joists. It meant not to drill within one-third of the ends of the joist lengthwise and not to drill in the top or bottom third of the joist. Hopefully someone else can confirm or reject this... __________________ Massey Ferguson GC2300 Southern California

08-28-2008, 07:35 PM	#3 (permalink)
Timber Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: East Bridgewater Massachusetts Posts: 1,300	Re: Kitchen renovation--NEED HELP w. joist!! Post a picture of the area lets see what your options are __________________ Kubota B7800, Sundown Loader Forks, Landpride PHD, Sundown 66" Box Blade, 800 pound Ballast Drum with chain storage,ATI Grapple, 60" Landpride Brush mower

08-28-2008, 07:40 PM	#4 (permalink)
bobodu Platinum Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Whitley County,In.EIEIO Posts: 595	Re: Kitchen renovation--NEED HELP w. joist!! You'd be fine. __________________ 1945 Allis-Chalmers,1967 Wheelhorse and a barn full of Gravelys.The sissy hydromatic Kubota belongs to the wife.......so does the bubble hooded Simplicity Yuppie Mower.A man has to make certain sacrifices to keep the wife happy.

08-28-2008, 08:18 PM	#5 (permalink)
davitk Platinum Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: South Central Wisconsin Posts: 897	Re: Kitchen renovation--NEED HELP w. joist!! With solid lumber, the holes must be no closer than 2" from the top or bottom of the joist, and a maximum of 1/3 the joist depth (2x10 = 3 1/8" hole). Also, no notching in the middle 1/3 of the joist span. KEEP AN EYE ON THOSE DARN PLUMBERS!! __________________ Happiness is 2 rolls of duct tape

08-29-2008, 01:27 AM	#7 (permalink)
CurlyDave Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Grants Pass, OR Posts: 1,225	Re: Kitchen renovation--NEED HELP w. joist!! The answer is more complex than anything you have so far. What is the span of the joist? If you are near the maximum span for the joist, davitk's answer is good. If the span is less than maximum, you have considerably more leeway in the holes, notches, etc. that you can cut. __________________ 40 Acres on a hill - fantastic view. JD 110 TLB, 4-n-1, 12" bucket, 18" bucket, Addington thumb, rock bucket (doubles as root grapple)

08-29-2008, 11:19 AM	#8 (permalink)
Charlesaf3 Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Boston & Martha's Vineyard, People's Republik of Massachusetts Posts: 1,122	Re: Kitchen renovation--NEED HELP w. joist!! true, but without getting into engineering tables, davitks answer is a safe one. __________________ ---------------------------------------- Charles Kubota B3030 Kubota M59 w/hydro thumb Neat stuff - ATI Preseeder, Hydraulic PHD, Wallenstein BX62r Chipper, Millonzi Grapple, CA 4n1 Bucket. Delta Hook Rear QA system. Too many other random attachments to list (or to own, per my gf) and a really bad tool addiction. But at least I haven't bought a dump truck or bulldozer. Yet.

08-29-2008, 01:03 PM	#9 (permalink)
Whitey Silver Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Slippery Rock, Pennsylvania Posts: 131	Re: Kitchen renovation--NEED HELP w. joist!! Without re-inventing the wheel I would say that if you are concerned about the hole size or it's location.....here is what I would do. You can add structural full depth bridging to both sides of the opening tying the punched joist to the joists at either side or.....you can make a cleat out of 3/4" plywood that spans 32" inches in either direction of the hole centered on both sides of the joist. Glue / screw it to reinforce the area then drill your hole. The plywood will help reinforce the area that is to be punched. Be sure to make the cleats large enough or they will be useless. I recently added cleats to both sides of a purlin / hanging truss affair in my 100 year old shop so the ceiling would handle the weight of type X drywall, insulation and a USG ceiling grid. Worked great. JD 770 / 70 FEL / 7 BH - 425 AWS / 54" MMM / 54" FMP

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