nate_m
Silver Member
Gravel Saver / Gauge Wheels - Rear Blade
Are we tired of seeing gauge wheel builds yet??? I hope not because here's my version of this TBN classic.
Materials:
The 1" nut on top is welded directly to the pipe. The 1" nut on bottom is loosened to make adjustments to the height.
With the wheels adjusted all the way down, the blade stays about 1.5" above the surface. This is to keep my gravel in the drive when plowing snow.
With the wheels adjusted all the way up, the blade will take about a 2" bite. Probably more than enough for my needs.
WARNING: For my first attempt, I used 350 lb iron casters with solid rubber treads from Harbor Freight ($6 ea). These didn't last one trip down the drive before the rubber was gone and so were the hub bearings!
For my second attempt I used a set of 700 lb solid steel castors from TSC ($25 ea). Way more expensive but these have grease zirks for both the wheel hub and caster. After multiple trial runs up and down the drive, they are still holding up well.
I'm happy to report that even with the short distance between blade and wheel, they do just fine for keeping the blade from digging in. My drive is now perfectly graded without a single ripple.
Cheers.
Are we tired of seeing gauge wheel builds yet??? I hope not because here's my version of this TBN classic.
Materials:
- 3" x 5" x 3/8" angle iron
- 1-1/4" schedule 40 galvanized pipe
- 1" threaded rod
- 700 lb steel casters
The 1" nut on top is welded directly to the pipe. The 1" nut on bottom is loosened to make adjustments to the height.
With the wheels adjusted all the way down, the blade stays about 1.5" above the surface. This is to keep my gravel in the drive when plowing snow.
With the wheels adjusted all the way up, the blade will take about a 2" bite. Probably more than enough for my needs.
WARNING: For my first attempt, I used 350 lb iron casters with solid rubber treads from Harbor Freight ($6 ea). These didn't last one trip down the drive before the rubber was gone and so were the hub bearings!
For my second attempt I used a set of 700 lb solid steel castors from TSC ($25 ea). Way more expensive but these have grease zirks for both the wheel hub and caster. After multiple trial runs up and down the drive, they are still holding up well.
I'm happy to report that even with the short distance between blade and wheel, they do just fine for keeping the blade from digging in. My drive is now perfectly graded without a single ripple.
Cheers.
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