I keep breaking bolts

   / I keep breaking bolts #1  

WTA

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I finished making my own pasture renovator a couple days ago. It's got 5 coulters on the front frame and 5 B33 mole knives on the back directly behind the coulters. The knives are mounted on 1x3 inch plow shanks and bolted with grade 5 bolts on the bottom and grade 8 on top. I thought that would be fine even if we hadn't just gotten some rain. It wasn't. Only running the knives at half depth, about 6 inches, I was snapping off bolts about every 10 feet and can't figure out why.

Anyone running fertilizer knives similar to this that can tell me what grade bolts to use without worrying about breaking bolts or my knives?

Just fyi I was in my lowest gear possible (real slow) and the soil is pretty moist right now. My tractor wasn't working hard to break the bolts at all.
 
   / I keep breaking bolts #2  
Looks like your bolts are not engaging enough clamping force. The bolts are in shear, not tension. Increase the clamping force using washers and grinding the shank to keep the joint from slipping. Then torque the nut up to a very high load. Check the holes to make sure that sharp edges are not contributing to the shearing. You have to have a bolt that stretches to maintain tension and 2 surfaces that won't slip. IMHO the 8 is too brittle, the 5 is probably too soft. Post a picture. Which one breaks first?
 
   / I keep breaking bolts #3  
Stop by your local Fastenal store and get some what is known as grade 9 frame bolts. They have a extremely high strength and built in washers. I'm curious, what size (diameter) bolts did you use?
 
   / I keep breaking bolts #4  
I wouldn't consider grade 8 bolts brittle. The grade rating is a measure of material strength not hardness. I machine and drill them all the time. DP hit on a point though. If the bolts are snaping in shear or tension, a larger bolt or more bolts should help. It's the same reasoning used to hold a head on an engine. You won't find any 1/4" bolts on a diesel engine.
 
   / I keep breaking bolts #5  
Also consider using a shoulder bolt, a bolt that is not threaded all the way. If your shearing the bolts off this will increase the amount of metal in the area they are shearing. In a perfect world a bolt should be threaded as much as is required since the threaded area is the weakest point. I see way to many people using tap bolts (threaded the entire length) when they should be using shoulder bolts.

Trust me on the grade 9 frame bolts or flange bolts, they are designed to take extreme shear stress.

CCWKen - You state "The grade rating is a measure of material strength not hardness". Actually the "grade" is nothing more than a name or nomenclature for a specific set of specification's like a SAE, ASTM or MIL spec.

SAE J429-Grade 5 are medium carbon steel, quenched and tempered. Min. Proof Strength 85,000 psi up to 1" diameter. Min. Tensile Strength 120,000 psi up to 1" diameter.

SAE J429-Grade 8 are medium carbon alloy steel, quenched and tempered. Min. Proof Strength 120,000 psi. Min. Tensile Strength 150,000 psi.

FNL Grade 9 are medium carbon alloy. Min. Proof Strength 140,650 psi. Min. Tensile Strength 180,000 psi.

The Industrial Fastener Institute (Inch Fastener Standards, 7th ed. 2003. B-2) states that shear strength is approximately 60% of the minimum tensile strength.

"As an empirical guide, shear strengths of carbon steel fasteners may be assumed to be approximately 60 percent of their specified minimum tensile strengths. For example, an SAE grade 5 hex cap screw has a specified minimum tensile strength of 120 ksi. Therefore, for design purposes, its shear strength could be reasonably assumed to be 72 ksi."

Let's look at an example of where Gr.5, Gr.8 and Gr.9 bolts are subjected to single shear loads.

A = Cross-sectional area of the fastener size (since bolt bodies/shanks have circular cross-sections, use area of a circle) = Pi x r2 where R (radius) = .250/2 = .125, therefore A = Pi x (.125)2 = .0491 square inches (in2)

Using a .250-inch diameter grade 5 fastener gives you the following shear capability:

Capability in shear = 72,000 lbs / in2 x .0491 in2 = 3535 lbs

Using a .250-inch diameter grade 8 fastener gives you the following shear capability:

Capability in shear = 90,000 lbs / in2 x .0491 in2 = 4419 lbs

Using a .250-inch diameter grade 9 fastener gives you the following shear capability:

Capability in shear = 108,000 lbs / in2 x .0491 in2 = 5,302 lbs

That's a difference of over 1,700 lbs or almost 1 ton. In this example you can clearly see that using a grade 8 or grade 9 fastener has a superior advantage over the grade 5. Therefore the result is if someone is using grade 5 bolts in a shear application they will fail 884 lbs earlier than a grade 8 and fail 1,767 lbs earlier than a grade 9.

I've also heard the argument that grade 8's are more brittle than grade 5's and that's why you shouldn't use them. First you need to understand what the term "brittle" really means. Brittleness in bolts is defined as failure at stresses apparently below the strength of the bolt material with little or no evidence of plastic deformation. Typically, fasteners are not brittle below 180 ksi ultimate tensile strength. Grade 5's have an ultimate tensile strength of 120 ksi, a grade 8 fastener has an ultimate tensile strength of 150 ksi and a grade 9 fastener has a ultimate tensile strength of 180 ksi. This is why brittle is a relative term. Nearly all fasteners are considered ductile except some made from PH 15-6 Mo, 17-4 PH and 17-7 PH.

Toughness is an important feature of a fastener. It is the opposite of brittleness and gives you an idea of how it will handle abuse without being damaged and eventually weakening the fastener or can cause fatigue to appear much earlier than normal. One way to "measure" toughness is by looking at the hardness rating of a fastener. The higher the number (Brinell, Rockwell) the harder the material is and the tougher it is to damage. According to Marks Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers, Grade 5 typically have a core Rockwell hardness of C25-C34, a grade 8 typically has a core Rockwell hardness of C33-C39 and a grade 9 typically has a core Rockwell hardness of C33-C39 (same as a grade 8). Based on this, grade 8's and 9's are tougher than grade 5's.

Fatigue usually doesn't play a big part in grade 9, 8 or grade 5 fasteners since most steels are good for 2 million to 10 million cycles. Here is a quick point about fastener fatigue. Almost all fastener fatigue failures are the result of improper (almost always too low) torque. Too low a torque will cause the fastener to pick up more load more often and eventually cycle it to failure. Therefore, you want to make sure you torque your fasteners to the appropriate level using a torque wrench and make sure to torque dry, clean threads. Lubricated threads significantly change the actual preload on the fastener and you risk over torquing it.
 
   / I keep breaking bolts #6  
After all the very excellent narrative by dieselpower, what it amounts to is if you are shearing your bolts, get a larger bolt or a stronger bolt. Based on your tractor loading description, I would say that you have too small of a bolt and should step up at least one size. Since you didnt tell us what size bolt you were using, just that it is breaking and you are not damaging in any way your plow, I would drill out the mounting holes to go up one size, then if if it still shears, try the grade 8 bolts. STill shears, go up one more size and use grade 5 then to 8. Keep increasing the size till it doesnt shear in normal ground engagement. If you are going really slow, you should stall the tractor before damaging the equipment. That is my opinion anyway. Shear bolts should only shear if your forward momentum is high and you hit an immovable object. Any piece of equipment that is properly designed for the tractors HP should stand up to the torture test at slow speeds without tripping, shearing or bending.
 
   / I keep breaking bolts #7  
2 cents of a home builder...

Both things are in case the bolts are square to the pulling direction, which i dont know not seeing your construction.

Make the holes in the coulters and knives and holders bigger and sleeve the bolts with a piece of tubing exact width of the outside of the holders.

I had better results with such configuration, presume that pressure is spread more evenly.

Another point sometimes forgotten is that the bolt is not always supposed to take the load. Make the holes in coulters and knives bigger so that under load the forces come onto the holders and not onto the bolt.


And another one, 3 bolts are better than 2. Not only because of more bolts is more strenght but in case of 2 bolts you can end up creating a pivot point at the first bolt and so a stronger force-arm which stresses the other bolt more.
In case of 3 bolts the pivot point is put in the middle one reducing the length of the force-arm and deviding the forces better.


dont know how clear my ranting is but hope it helps

:)
 
   / I keep breaking bolts #8  
CCWKen - You state "The grade rating is a measure of material strength not hardness". Actually the "grade" is nothing more than a name or nomenclature for a specific set of specification's like a SAE, ASTM or MIL spec.

SAE J429-Grade 5 are medium carbon steel, quenched and tempered. Min. Proof Strength 85,000 psi up to 1" diameter. Min. Tensile Strength 120,000 psi up to 1" diameter.

SAE J429-Grade 8 are medium carbon alloy steel, quenched and tempered. Min. Proof Strength 120,000 psi. Min. Tensile Strength 150,000 psi.

FNL Grade 9 are medium carbon alloy. Min. Proof Strength 140,650 psi. Min. Tensile Strength 180,000 psi.

The Industrial Fastener Institute (Inch Fastener Standards, 7th ed. 2003. B-2) states that shear strength is approximately 60% of the minimum tensile strength.

Yeah, I believe that's what I said. I just didn't copy off the net or burp it out a book. :rolleyes:

But I sure am glad the word police are watching.
 
   / I keep breaking bolts #9  
You said grade 8 bolts are to brittle, they aren't. They are ductile just like lower grade bolts. They just don't show deflection or deformation until much higher stress levels. And reference books are there for just that, reference and specifications.
 
   / I keep breaking bolts #10  
Thorough explanation, dieselpower, and quite correct.

I had heard the "grade 8 bolts are brittle" line years ago: a mechanic-calling-himself-an-engineer was trying to claim that the bolts were breaking on a machine bracket because they were Grade 8's and that they would hold up better if they were Grade 5. Funny, his Grade 5's didn't work any better... I went out and looked at the machine; when it cycled, there was an interference that was knocking the bracket off. I reworked the bracket, eliminated the interference, no more bolt breakages.
 
 
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