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  1. #1
    Elite Member dodge man's Avatar
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    Oct 2008
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    3,666
    Location
    West central Illinois
    Tractor
    Kubota BX2350

    Default MAKING A DRAG/HARROW

    I would like to make a drag out of a piece of chain link fence. Is there any trick to this? Should you weight it down with a concrete block or two? Whats the best way to tie it to the tractor.

  2. #2
    Silver Member aggiehortguy91's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    120
    Location
    Jupiter, FL
    Tractor
    '01 BX2200

    Default Re: MAKING A DRAG/HARROW

    Run a piece of pipe throught one end of the fence and attach a chain to each end. Attach a piece of chain to the middle of the chain along the pipe and hook that to your drawbar or box blade or ?. For incorporating seed, it should work fine just like that. If you need weight, you can use fencing staples to attach 2x6s or 2x8s across the fence in a couple of places. Blocks will work, but the weight won't be even across the fence which will give it a tendency to run at an angle and to leave slight ruts.

  3. #3
    Platinum Member
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    Dec 2008
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    898
    Location
    Buffalo, New York
    Tractor
    318 John Deere, 4200 John Deere, 1947 John Deere "M"

    Default Re: MAKING A DRAG/HARROW

    I made mine about 8' Square. I used discarded top chain-link rail for the leading edge. Fastened it just like you would fasten the chain-link fabric to a corner post, with the flat (1/2"x1/8") stock, that weaves between the links, and used the same type of c-collars w/carrige bolts. I pull it with a chain and C-clevis, with each end of chain fastened about 18" in from the end of the lead bar rail. Sort of 'bridle' fashion. I put a 6x6 pressure treated timber across it, back about a foot from the lead edge. I pull it behind my garden tractor but more often, behind our 360cc 4x4, after disc-ing, and also after seeding our small (2-ac)deer plot. Really breaks up the clumps. You could plant a lawn afterwards! Works great, and almost free! . But- It's not going to dg, only break clumps, flaten, and level. ~Scotty

  4. #4
    Super Star Member EddieWalker's Avatar
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    May 2003
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    14,942
    Location
    Tyler, Texas
    Tractor
    Several, all used and abused.

    Default Re: MAKING A DRAG/HARROW

    I wrapped the cyclone fence around an oak log. Then I hooked the chain to the ends of the log and looped the middle around my tow ball. This worked great for me until the log rotted out a few months ago. Maybe six years out in the elements.

    Here's a few pics.

    I'm going to make a new one from concrete. I've started buying the materials for it, and depending on the weather, might start on it this weekend.

    Eddie
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -food-plot-14-oct-08-a  
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Silver Member BayouMan's Avatar
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    Oct 2006
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    210
    Location
    Gonzales, LA>
    Tractor
    JD-2640

    Default Re: MAKING A DRAG/HARROW

    I have used about a 6' square of old chain link with a pipe on the leading edge and a small chain with a loop in the center to drop over my trailer ball. Worked great for smoothing out yards and other areas where the dirt is exposed and not a lot of trash. If you have a lot of grass clumps, small limbs, etc, you will be stopping regularly to remove the debris.

  6. #6
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    577
    Location
    Creal Springs, IL
    Tractor
    Kubota M7040, ZD326, JD Gator 855D

    Default Re: MAKING A DRAG/HARROW

    I致e been thinking of this too?but my drag area is a pasture with fire ant mounds, and hog damage. Pasture is just rough in many areas. Really needs to be disked, but I don稚 want to do that at this point. So?my drag has to contend with grass, trash, etc, and I知 concerned of course with everything getting hung up in it.

    Ideas. I was thinking of welding together a frame from old pipe., then welding a 16ft cattle panel to the bottom. Would this accomplishment much? The frame being there for weight, and to avoid twisting the panel. Also thinking of tying on old tires on top of all this. Opinions?

  7. #7
    Elite Member wushaw's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    3,075
    Location
    Bristol Texas
    Tractor
    Kubota L2800, 15 hp 372 Mitsubishi

    Default Re: MAKING A DRAG/HARROW

    Mine is a section 4X5 of cattle panel welded to a 1" sq frame. If weight is needed I tie dumbells to it.

    Without disking you will knock the fireant mounds down and smooth a little with the hog damage.

    If you build it now and it doesn't work that well you will have it when you disk it. Either way you will still need to build a dragg sooner or later.
    Kubota L2800HST, Mitsubishi 372, bh75, 45" Agric tiller, 5' home made disk, 42" Bush hog, PHD, 66" Cammond BB.

  8. #8
    Gold Member
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    Aug 2008
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    373
    Location
    Darlington, SC
    Tractor
    1957 Ferguson 35, 1977? Yanmar 2200, 1963 Cub Cadet Original

    Default Re: MAKING A DRAG/HARROW

    Sounds like you may need to build a section harrow with teeth and then attach a peice of chain link fence behind that to smooth everything out.

    I needed one about 10 yrs ago and bought the teeth for about 59 cents each. I built the frame out of 3" channel iron but it can be built out of whatever is available to you, nothing specific. the teeth will loosen the mounds and the chain link will drag them out. Attach the chain link to the section harrow with short pieces of chain and then flip it over on the section harrow to get it off the ground when not in use but traveling to or from pasture.

    Some section harrows have adjustable angle teeth but I welded mine in place with a slight angle forward. Works fine for me. They only wanted 600.00 for one in the store. I built mine half the size for about 30.00

  9. #9
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    373
    Location
    Darlington, SC
    Tractor
    1957 Ferguson 35, 1977? Yanmar 2200, 1963 Cub Cadet Original

    Default Re: MAKING A DRAG/HARROW

    Also, I bought my teeth but later saw one with teeth made out of rebar that seemed to work just fine. Its all about getting the job done with as much money saved as possible.

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