Non 3pt tiller to 3pt mount conversion

[rdbrumfield]

As one poster said above. I too would put a down leg on each side of the top link to the lower lift points. In time I am sure where you have the base of the top link setup it will fail. The whole weight of the tiller trying to tip backward when lifting puts a pretty good strain on it. When it is in the ground tilling it is also trying to tip back as the knives are clawing forward.
By the way, great deal on a used tiller. How hard is it to get those kind of blades?

 

[larso1]

Here's a couple pics I had on hand showing a small Yanmar W/ 2-pt tiller. Maybe you can see it pivots on the main pins on each side of the drive shaft, which is always at the same height above the ground surface. A 3-pt moves the whole tiller in an arc up and down relative to the tractor. I also attach my method of converting a 2-pt to 3-pt tiller on my tractor that I've shown here before. No modifying the tiller, just adding in a triangle adapter. Maybe the only issue I have with this is it puts the tiller back away from the tractor a couple more inches than I like but it does the job. Just takes up a little more room in my over-crowded storage shed.

 

[MJPetersen]

What drove those tillers before the conversion?/QUOTE]

On my YM 1510D the YM1202 mount linkage keeps the tiller very close to the rear wheels. I have seen conversions that use a very short non-adjustable top link and an extended connection point for the top link so that the tiller swings up in an arc similar to the original. The result is that the drive line does maintains a more reasonable angle. I included some pics of my tiller and linkage.

lars your conversion is very interesting. What did you do for the drive shaft connection on the tiller?

Tatra, I cannot find them here for that. I might have to take a trip to Czech and get one for a couple of other projects that I have in mind. They seem to think that they are gold plated or something here.

Mike

 

[larso1]

On the driveshaft connection, of course the tractor has a std. 1-3/8" 6-spline connection, and in this case the tiller had a smaller metric, approx. 30MM 16-spline connection. So, I bought a PTO slip-on adapter, 1-3/8" 6-spline x 1-1/8" (can't remember the splines, same as on an 8N?), and had our machine shop bore it to 30MM I.D., then had it welded on the tiller shaft. Here's a pic.

 

[chumly2071]

On the driveshaft connection, of course the tractor has a std. 1-3/8" 6-spline connection, and in this case the tiller had a smaller metric, approx. 30MM 16-spline connection. So, I bought a PTO slip-on adapter, 1-3/8" 6-spline x 1-1/8" (can't remember the splines, same as on an 8N?), and had our machine shop bore it to 30MM I.D., then had it welded on the tiller shaft. Here's a pic.

Any concerns about having to service the input shaft seal or bearings with the larger shaft welded on the end?

 

[larso1]

Any concerns about having to service the input shaft seal or bearings with the larger shaft welded on the end?

LOL! I suppose if it starts leaking I'll definitely have some concerns. I guess I would have my welder guy blow off the weld and remove the adapter, then grind off the rough remnants to slip a new seal over when and if that happens. I could have modified the matching stub drive shaft end (that came with the tiller) and weld it onto the drive shaft somehow. The problem is there's no detent in the tiller's 16-spline input shaft end to keep the drive shaft from slipping off the tiller as it's lowered. That of course is because the shaft doesn't lengthen or collapse with a 2-pt setup, being that it pivots at one point, so it's not needed in that case. I'll admit it's not a perfect world when adapting the two types together and some compromise has to be made, but I bought the tiller for $250 plus about $60 shipping from OK to CO, so I'm willing to deal with the small stuff for the difference in cost of a newer one. This Yanmar 1200 tiller is designed for lighter rice paddy type work but it's still well made. I use it in my garden area and a neighbor's big garden, as well as along the front of the house by the road where it gets hard packed with plenty of rocks/gravel buried in it. So far haven't broke a tine...keeping my fingers crossed. Here's a video showing it jumping around a bit by the road...you can hear some of the rocks in there.

YouTube - Yanmar 48-in. 2-pt. tiller in action

 

[tatra805]

thanks for the comments

I agree with the reinforcement of the top link connection. Time was short so i will do this in the coming days.

The reason for putting the beam that far back is to lower the forces on the toplink when the tiller tries to pop up. I could not find other places in that area to weld anything to.

Next come some skids as i need to renovate a pasture and really need to stay in the top inch-or-2 to avoid too soft ground (horses).

The back cover needs some mods to get a more even result as the side flaps are allowing earth to escape earlier than in the middle leaving bigger chunks at the sides of each pass.


Larso1, looking at your video, how deep were you rotovating there?
I found best results with 2nd gear, 2nd speed (middle box), low and PTO at 4 for ploughed ground but had best results on hard patches (previously an AG tractor drivethrough area) in 2nd gear, 1st speed, low and pto at 1. Both a lot slower that you in the video. Tiller was floating, so completely down and with these settings i was going with the tiller axle bearings in the ground. (so deep and single pass needed only) 19pto horses but not much reserve in the wet areas (clay)

This was my first attempt so i try to figure out if my settings were ok.

 

[larso1]

thanks for the comments

"Larso1, looking at your video, how deep were you rotovating there?
I found best results with 2nd gear, 2nd speed (middle box), low and PTO at 4 for ploughed ground but had best results on hard patches (previously an AG tractor drivethrough area) in 2nd gear, 1st speed, low and pto at 1. Both a lot slower that you in the video. Tiller was floating, so completely down and with these settings i was going with the tiller axle bearings in the ground. (so deep and single pass needed only) 19pto horses but not much reserve in the wet areas (clay)"

Tatra, I wasn't going for real deep, only about 3 to 4 inches because all I wanted to do was dislodge the weeds and their shallow roots. If I go too deep there, and somebody tries to park their car on the road in front of the house (inlaws, etc.) after one of our few rains or snows, it gets really muddy and messy so I try not to sink it down too deep at that location.

When I'm tilling the gardens, which have been previously tilled each year, I thnk I use 2nd gear, low range, for ground speed (I have 16 PTO HP). I put the PTO in 2nd gear also (out of 4-speeds). That works well for me at about 6- to 8-inches till depth (I think?). I have the creeper range as well but ground speed is way too slow in any gear. I once accidently put the PTO in 4th speed and it really threw out the dirt like a rooster tail, and lugged the motor down. I won't being doing that again.