Stump Grinder Finished

[J_J]

They also make clutch type hydraulic pumps that run off the fan belt.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.a...c&keyword=HPCP

[J_J]

It's a full sized Ford 2N, about 20-25hp. I thought about a PTO pump, but that would kill things like this that run off the PTO, right? Or can you still use the PTO?

Yes, the PTO pump slips over the PTO shaft, and you use it to power things like backhoe, hydraulic auger, Hydraulic tiller, hydraulic flail mower, etc. You can use it to power a PTO implement or the PTO pump.

[Scotty370]

Yes, the PTO pump slips over the PTO shaft, and you use it to power things like backhoe, hydraulic auger, Hydraulic tiller, hydraulic flail mower, etc. You can use it to power a PTO implement or the PTO pump.

I think that's his question, J_J! It's either/or, not both! In the grinder scenerio, you need both! Perhaps the belt driven pump would open up some options though. Didn't want WV to think you can slid a pto pump on the back, and then come off it with a shaft drive, at the same time. ~Scotty

[Scotty370]

Also just a couple other things I've learned:
o-You definately don't want to build one as was mentioned with the wheel mounted at 90* to the tractor! You really need that tractor as a firm anchor point to 'hold tight' while your thowing chips out the back!
o- You definately don't want one that brings the chips toward the tractor! I can't imagine the 'schrapnel' that would be 'greeting' the operator!
o- Your better off cutting a stump from the left side, (viewed from the drawbar, looking rearward). If you've set the bite/pass a little too deep, it will meet with 'rejection'! If you come in from the right, if will try to track across the top of the stump all the way 'til you stall, or it finishes a very 'scary/shuttering' pass!
o- On larger stumps, your want to line up to cut the first 1/3, (1/4?) closest to the tractor first. ie- using the 7-8 o'clock position on the wheel, when viewed from the right side of the unit. More learning in store for this weekend, along with the promised Pics! ~Scotty
PS One more point- Tractor placement is everything! Guess the downside to the 3PH Design! IE Cut part of a large stump, raise the unit, reposition, lower the unit set park brake, grind, remount, reposition, reset brake, grind etc, etc, I'm wondering if thats why some units are sold with 26-36" wheels! That would cut down on the multi-moves a bit! But, with mine, "it is, what it is" and I'm happy with it!

[Cowpaddy52]

I am trying to figure out the best way to build a stump jumper. after looking at your pictures I like the clean lines and design that your unit has. I am wondering if you would have any drawings or pictures with dimensions that you would be willing to share. I have already built my cutter wheel which is similar to yours and have my shaft, bearings, and gearbox. I like the design of your frame-work, any help that you could share would be appreciated. Your unit is the cleanest design that I've seen since I started my project last year.

[Davesed]

My 8N had a spot in the front crankshaft that holds a splined shaft to drive a hydraulic pump for the FEL. My 861 also has one. I just "T'D" off of that to make wet lines for the rear. Sent the lines to a selector switch to allow the rear or FEL hydraulics to work.
Works like a charm for the Backhoe and other things that need hydraulics.

[JRP]

This is the most interesting post I have read on TBN. You all are an inspiration. Thanks!

Would it be better for the tractor to gradually loosen the slip clutch until it slips instead of tractor stall?

Sounds like the slip clutch is not doing its job. It might be rated for more than tractor hp and have higher initial setting.

[boxorox]

great work guys /also apower steering pump off car/truck makes great light duty hydrolic pump as mine powers a hydrolic milemarker wynch.also that 90 could be scavenged off an old rusted out bush hog.