Ballas Weight ideas - Feedback appreciated

[AJL]

Hi all,

Hoping to tap into the many brilliant minds here at TBN.

Like many I am struggling with whether or not to load my tires (Rim Guard) or another alternative (i.e. Wheel weights). I have a B3030 and I am doing a lot of loader work. I have been reading some recent threads that make me believe doing this in 4wd without sufficient balance to allow the rears to do most of the work is hard on the front drive train, or at least it would be better if it was done in 2wd. I use lots of 3 pt weight for counter weight, but the rear is still light with a full bucket.

The problem is I would like to be able to remove the weight for mowing and trailering, and when I want to minimize compaction.

So two ideas I知 hoping to get feed back on. Improvements, suggestions, warnings?lease.

One:

Build a weight that can be attached using the MMM setup. Basically a weight (section of I-beam or rail) with mounting hardware that matches that of my MMM. This could be 菟inned up to allow me to use the 3 PT, but also removed when I don稚 need it. Presumably this would be low profile, and a weight that matches, or does not significantly exceed that of the MMM (450 ?00 #). It would be removable, slug low under the tractor and would likely cost less than Rim Guard to fabricate.

Two:

Wheel weights are an option, but are expensive, cumbersome, and I understand that the inertia of them spinning with the wheel is hard on the drive train. Solution: A spindle which bolts to the existing rear wheel bolts which can hold readily available exercise style weights (I just happen to have some that I知 not really using?D). To address the inertia issues, I thought about the spindle being free-wheeling on bearings (i.e. a Spindle style trailer axle assembly.

Anyway, just some ideas. I知 sure someone out there has thought of these before, but I didn稚 find anything similar in my searches.

I look forward to your thoughts.

Thanks,

JL

 

[rambler]

I vote for the liquid ballast in additon to whatever else you do.

I farm for a living, put 1000's of hours on all sizes of tractors, grew up with an old narrow front loader tractor.

The most scariest ride I have ever had with a tractor is when I got the compact loader tractor & went down the hill on my driveway. Yikes! How do they get by selling those short wheelbase things without manditory ballast in the rear tires??? I called my coop the next morning, and didn't even drive it until they came & put fluid in - regular CC for me.

Been a good tractor I run about every day for all sorts of things the past 5 years. For real heavy loader work I hang a weight box on the 3pt.

But I can't imagine trying to use it without loaded tires! Never, ever, would I go without fluid in one of these little buggers. Deathtrap!

My opinion.

--->Paul

 

[gordyy]

I vote for the ballast in the tires
my first use of my loader was a high pucker factor lifted about 650lbs turn the wheel and the whole darn thing tipped sideways and the wreight was hanging fromthe middle of the loader on a chain
watching that rear tire in the air was enough for me one time (not that it hasnt been up agaiin) but now it takes really overworking things to get it up
mine is a little guy so it only took 24 gallons of rimguard best $60 spent on the tractor yet

 

[LBrown59]

I vote for the ballast in the tires
my first use of my loader was a high pucker factor lifted about 650lbs turn the wheel and the whole darn thing tipped sideways and the wreight was hanging fromthe middle of the loader on a chain
watching that rear tire in the air was enough for me one time (not that it hasnt been up agaiin) but now it takes really overworking things to get it up
mine is a little guy so it only took 24 gallons of rimguard best $60 spent on the tractor yet

I vote for the liquid ballast in additon to whatever else you do.

I farm for a living, put 1000's of hours on all sizes of tractors, grew up with an old narrow front loader tractor.

The most scariest ride I have ever had with a tractor is when I got the compact loader tractor & went down the hill on my driveway. Yikes! How do they get by selling those short wheelbase things without manditory ballast in the rear tires??? I called my coop the next morning, and didn't even drive it until they came & put fluid in - regular CC for me.

Been a good tractor I run about every day for all sorts of things the past 5 years. For real heavy loader work I hang a weight box on the 3pt.

But I can't imagine trying to use it without loaded tires! Never, ever, would I go without fluid in one of these little buggers. Deathtrap!

My opinion.

--->Paul

I don't have filled tires on these 3.

 

[Ken45101]

I filled a 55 gallon plastic drum with concrete and set it up for the 3 pt. as a counterweight. Actually when I had the 2wd M4700, most of the time either the box blade or the 6' rotary cutter provided fair counterweight. I never loaded the tires on that tractor (it was before Rimguard) and I've seen what calcium can do. The loader spent most of it's time in the barn, however, 2wd and a loader just don't work very well.

Both tractors now are 4wd and have Rimgard.

Ken

 

[mcd176]

I vote for the rear tire ballast as well, I have all 4 of mine filled with washer fluid.

-Mike

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

I use buckets filled with concrete that i strap to my box blade.

 

[Deadman]

I have lead chunks thrown in my Ballast box. Its a SMALL pile of lead, but weights 1,200 lbs. The ballast box is still nearly empty, so I can throw chains, chainsaws, tools, beer, water, small children, etc....anything in there!

 

[GE222]

I don't like fluid in the tires as I have seen the damage it causes on the rim. But the benefit it adds in terms of a counterweight almost outweighs the potential damage.

Wheel weights are a great idea, and the inertial properties on the drive train are really for all practical purposes a non issue. Tractor wheels don't have a high acceleration rate, and the rpm is very low. Consider the inertial wheel weight load versus the load from doing work with the tractor.

Add a weight box on the back. That way weight can be added or subtracted. The box can also be used to carry chains, tools, etc. One big weight will work, but it can be difficult to manhandle when not on the tractor, as most people don't always have convenient space to store one.

 

[RiZak]

I vote for counterweight on the 3 Pt.

I have a gray market Kubota ( did not know at time of purchase) and it is so narrow that it scared the ____ of me one time. So I instlled a second set of wheel in the back and a half drum filled with concrete.

the good thing with the counterweight is that it is further in the back so I need less weight for the same result on the Fel and I actually can remove weight from the front axle. Filling the rear wheel will not ease the front axle, it will only help to keep the back on the ground. (Correct me if I am wrong)

Than... I have 100 acre of land and a nice part of this land is swamp that I try to drain. thanks God I have double wheel in the back filled with notning but air ( I wish it could be helium) and I can remove the counterweight to install the backhoe which will still give me counterweight.

in fact... I may start a thread asking the opposite as you did... How can I have the tractor to float mid-air so I can drain the land and not loose the tractor in the mud? ...