FEL w/5' lift height + deck remaining on: Help finding/making

[curdy]

Hi guys, I'm looking for some advice regarding a FEL design. I've been reading a lot of threads all over the place and I wanted to try to get some specific answers towards some specific needs I have that I need a FEL to be able to handle. Pictures are a huge help If there are some threads that I've missed that address these directly, please let me know where they are and I'll read up on them.

I may be leaning towards purchasing a JD 332. I have a 2 acre flat property and am finally coming to the realization that I should have gotten a tractor that can help me more with the tasks I have around here. Mowing is the most regular, but its the other tasks that are just getting to be too much for me to handle all by hand. I like the 332 for the engine, available parts, reasonable pricing and small size. I know not having the tractor in front of me for measurements and observations makes this a little tough...I'm hoping the amount of experience everyone else has with these and other GT's in general will help to get some creative ideas flowing.


I wanted to make a brief list of the things I'm trying to accomplish and see what your opinion was on them.


*Utilize the on board hydraulics already on the 332.

*Ability to lift heavier stuff like a bucket load of dirt or rocks into a utility cart or trailer (doesn't have to be too high).

*Good lift height...able to lift high enough to get lumber off of racks and put some mulch over the side of my pick up. 5'?
***I'm OK with not being able to lift heavy stuff higher. The ability to lift high would be for lighter material. Yes, it would be nice to be able to lift heavy material high, but if I need to sacrifice that...that's the one area I'm most able to let go. I could always have a smaller bucket made up to limit my capacity if I'm loading dirt into a pick up.

*Being able to keep my mower deck on is key. This is used on my own property, and will be pulling double duty regarding mowing and the occasional loader job. Being able to run over an put the loader on for a quick task is huge for me. BUT, I'd also like to be able to remove the mower deck easily with the loader attached.

*By 'running over and putting the loader on' I'm talking 10-15 minutes. I should be able to plan ahead for nearly all tasks requiring the loader, so I'd probably set it up the night before.


Thanks so much!!!

 

[bobodu]

Doing real real work with a mower is the best way to wreck your mower. Get another tractor.
A little looking will find you a real tractor ( like a A-C WD or Farmall M ) for less than $1500 with a loader.
Another alternative would be a three point finish mower.

 

[scarlo101]

Curdy, below are some pics of a FEL that I have fabricated for my BX1850. I am not familiar with your JD model. Mine lifts 11" higher than OEM and lifts heavier loads due to the fact that I used larger bore cylinders. Also I like the quick change setup that I have built. I am now working on building a rear ballast weight.
You don't mention if you plan on constructing your own FEL.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Curdy, below are some pics of a FEL that I have fabricated for my BX1850. I am not familiar with your JD model. Mine lifts 11" higher than OEM and lifts heavier loads due to the fact that I used larger bore cylinders. Also I like the quick change setup that I have built. I am now working on building a rear ballast weight.
You don't mention if you plan on constructing your own FEL.

Scarlo101,

Very nice looking FEL. I would like to learn more about this. I might want to fab a loader for my 1983 Kubota B6800 HST. Did you make your own plans? What did it end up costing (to compare to purchasing). Thanks.

 

[BearKiller]

curdy,

I have a belly-mower and loader that do not interfere with each other.

The mower is WOODS brand; the loader may be WOODS also; I don't know as there is no I.D.-plate that I have found.

Although it would be best to remove the mower except when mowing, it is such an act of congress to get mine out from under the tractor that I usually just leave it on; so far, so good.

One big plus that I really like about my loader is that it is completely independent of the tractor hydraulics, in that it has a seperate belt-driven pump and it's own reservoir; therefore, so long as the engine is running, regardless of clutch position or what the three-point is doing, the loader will work.

I highly recommend this feature.


If you are fortunate enough to have a large wholesale steel supplier within reasonable distance (I am), then you can build a loader (or anything steel) for not much money compared to buying new.

Shop around for cylinders at surplus and salvage places and buy the cylinders cheap, then build to fit them.

 

[scarlo101]

Thanks GP.
I first started by measuring up a new FEL on a BX at the dealer lot. I then decided what I wanted different, primarily QA and higher lift. When you draw it in autocad, due to the fact that it is drawn to scale you can simulate raising the loader and dumping the bucket. It gives you the flexibility to check for clearances as well as giving you exact measurments of all the pieces that need to be cut and welded. In my case I purchased a surplus bucket at a dealer and worked backwards from it in designing the QA. I also wanted to make sure my dump angle when fully raised was 45degrees.
As far as cost it ended up costing about 1/3 of a new FEL.