My logsplitter

   / My logsplitter #1  

tatra805

Silver Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
180
Location
Okres Pezinok
Tractor
Iseki TL1900FD
Here is mine,

14092009005.jpg


It came up for sale for 300$, no way i could resist that pricetag so i dumped my building plans. The guy is metalworker/welder as profession and had different types of home-build tractors and implements standing in his garden which all were kind of over-build.

What is nice about his construction is the use of 2 narrow I beams instead of 1 normal beam. This reinforces the whole thing and is more torsion resistant. And another thing is that you easily can make a slip-in adjustable wedge, which is a problem with conventional I beam constructions.

The cylinder is a 4.5"/1.5", 33"stroke. Tractor hydraulics running at 3000psi relief that gives 21.6 tons of push. Cycle time is slow at 15 seconds with the limited tractor hydraulics but.. sufficient for a home-owner. I do not really plan on having any valves installed on the splitter itself. I can position the tractor in such a way that the controls are at the right place to be operated.

Reality test using my knotty remainders. Oak, locust, ash and wallnut pieces ranging from 3ft straight to 20"round and even some small rootballs. All went through with the wallnut being the hardest. (all were knotty in some degree) I monitored the pressure gauge and 90% of the splitting happens below 150 bar (2100psi) .And in each case it went above 150 bar it meant blocking, not splitting (yep 21ton stalled :cool:).

A trick is to keep the block under pressure and whack it with a splitting maul. (lengthwise) Old trick i saw years ago and it still works.:D Now with 21 tons pressing you can see the beam bending a bit, but everything holds up. Looks as he knew his specs.

With 50 bar left I guessed that a 4 way wedge is an option for my splitting needs. So out came the welder and short time later the 4 way was working.

14092009002.jpg


14092009006.jpg


Just a couple of thoughts and tips:

- vertical knive at 80 degrees to avoid the wood coming up when splitting.
- actual wedge starts 1 inch behind cutting edge and is positioned at 110 degrees to have the splitting forces starting at 1 side of the wood.
- Horizontal knives start at point that the vertical wedge has broken the vertical split. You need to watch your vertical knive and wedge action before you know where this point is. If you do this correctly you create a sequence of actions instead of a possible too big full impact of both vertical and horizontal knives and wedges. (cut vert.--> wedge vert. --> cut ***.--> wedge ***.---> push through) That should allow not needing much more power as when only using a vertical knive.

14092009007.jpg


Tried the 4 way on a couple of pieces and it works great. Have some cubic meters of wood to split tomorrow, i'll keep you updated.

14092009004.jpg


Not sure yet if i'll make it a 3pt mount or find an axle and make it towable. I see the benefit in the 3pt that the height is adjustable, but this thing is 7 ft long and heavy to sway behind a small tractor.
A table would be nice also.

So, give me your thoughts, I've been reading a bunch of splitter threads but guess each one has its specifics.

Guess the question is now what you all would add or change and why. I have no plans on commercial use, just the idea to go around the village to help out the elderly here. Although they might consider it normal it is a painfull sight to me to see them swing their maul for 2 weeks every year.


:)
 
   / My logsplitter #2  
That looks very good to me. Even if the cylce time is slower than comercial grade it still would be a whole lot faster than doing it with a splitting maul!!

I personally would thing that an axle would be the best way to go. Then you could make a train out of it. Your tractor, your trailer, and then your splitter. You could split on sight and toss the wood into your trailer. Just my thinking of how I would use it in my situation.

If you make it three point, you could put it on sideways so that it does not stick back so far, but that would make it too wide to go through a normal gate. Why did he use such a long cylinder (It is probably what he had on hand)? i do not know anyone who could put such a long log in his stove or fireplace.

Mike
 
   / My logsplitter #3  
are yo measuring the od of that cylinder? it sure looks like a 3" diameter in the picks ,no control valve on the splitter? are you sure? do you realize how much that is really going to be a pain in the butt?
 
   / My logsplitter
  • Thread Starter
#4  
the reason for this cylinder is to split meter-pieces, as all wood is here (and probably also where you are) delivered in 1 meter long (3ft something) pcs.

15092009.jpg


We just finished splitting 10 cubics in exactly 4 hours with 2 man and 1 break included.

15092009001.jpg


That makes 2.5m3 per hour. Now lets calculate a bit> what is faster a slow meter-splitter or a fast short stroke splitter

With my splitter:
15sec cycle means 4 meter pieces /min x 60 = 240 splits per hour

Short stroke:
1 split equals 3 1ft rounds of wood after cutting

3x 240 = 720 rounds

cycle time say 6 seconds:

720 x 6 = 4320 sec or 72 minutes


Not a big difference but we had a coffee on the way :D


We just finished cutting the split wood and ended up with 8 hours effective work. Thats 1.25 m3 per hour processed, not bad i would say (or at least that how it feels) :)

15092009002.jpg


Splitter performed great. first attemmpt on a boring video of a slow splitter.





:)
 
   / My logsplitter #5  
Interesting dealing with 1m wood. Everything I've seen delivered here is 8 foot (2.44m) or already "firewood length" of 16 inches (.4m) or more rarely 4 foot.

8 foot logs are the width of a semi or log truck, so they make efficient use of the truck space, and you can fit 10-12 cord (not face cord) on a truck. I think a full cord is about 3.6 cubic meters.
 
   / My logsplitter
  • Thread Starter
#6  
sizzami,

Yes i am sure about the cylinder being 4.5". pics might give you the wrong impression i guess. The splitter is 7ftsomething long maybe that helps putting it in dimension.

And no valves on the splitter are not an issue, with the tractor parked as in the pictures i am in a safe position and have the throttle nearby to give a bit of extra psi if necessary. and..... it prevents the splitter becoming a loan object to those that have a less convenient hydraulic unit (tractor, if you wish)

rus_geek,

the 1m thing is quite logic. We are using the metric system. That means that not only a cubic meter is a nice unit to calculate with but everything overhere is constructed around "The Meter"
Forrest-able trucks, tractor trailers etc all have a +- 2 meter width So it is actually very convenient to load 2 stacks of 1m logs next to each other.

2 meter logs are too heavy to manhandle (yes a lot of manipulation is still done by hand) and a general strategy is to stack wood along a forest road on both sides of the road. That means that later 2 people can load a trailer simultaniously from both sides.... time profit!


Regarding the axle vs 3pt, i am leaning towards the 3pt as i noticed it being very handy not having to lift these logs more than 1 ft. Knowing my back i am sure i would be dead in short time. Even an angled position would not solve this i guess but i'll make some tests to see what works best.

:)
 
   / My logsplitter #7  
not having a cotrol valve on the splitter is absolutely a speed issue I would punch myself in the neck if had to keep my tractor beside my woodsplitter to use it but thats just me:)
 
   / My logsplitter #8  
oh yeah I forgot heres mine which I builtall by myself.
 

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   / My logsplitter #9  
Sizzami - does your 4-way wedge slip over the standing wedge? I need that!. Sorry about the thread filch.
Jim
 
   / My logsplitter #10  
I like the 4way split. One thing though, do you find if you are splitting say 10 inch wood, if the 4 way knife isn't adjustable does it make a couple of pretty small pieces? I'm just wondering, I built one last year(try to post pics tommorrow) and I would like to make a 4way split for mine but would like to have it adjustsable. Are there any pics out there of an adjustable 4way knife?
 

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