Thinking of building a ROP for my tractor

[deepNdirt]

I know some might say that its not a good idea to home build a ROP and in certian applications I might tend to agree, like with the larger tractors over 3-k lbs, although with my compact & FEL weighing under 3-k lbs I'm thinking I can build a ROP strong enough to serve the purpose maybe even stronger then factory, most factory build one I see are made from 3x3 box tubing which I'm sure is plenty strong enough, but I have some 4" C-channel iron that I think I can make v cuts into at various locations to form the shap and re-weld in the cuts,I should be able to use 1 solid pc for the complete ROP and at the bottom weld on some section of 3x 3 angle iron for attaching it at the point of where the U-bolts hold the fenders to the rear axle, there looks to be approx 1 1/4 threads left on these U-bolts that will provide enough to bolt it onto, in the top I will weld in some cornering braces, about half way of the Rop hight approx even with set level I will weld in a cross member with additional corner bracing, I can also drill some holes thru the ribbing braces of the inside fenders and runs some grade #8 bolts/washers just to give a midway point of securing it,
doe this sound like a game plan?

 

[Johndeere3720]

Sounds like a good idea. Im lucky my yanmar came with factory ROPS.

 

[deepNdirt]

Sounds like a good idea. Im lucky my yanmar came with factory ROPS.

Yes you are fortunate that yours is already equip with a ROPS, Actually was one of the first things i noticed when seeing your yanmar and was glade to see it had a ROP for your safety, and if you look at it in terms of dollars what ever you paid for your tractor the ROP is 600+ dollars of the cost, and if ever needed and Lord pray not! cost has no value if it saves your life, i have an agreement with my wife that I need to put a ROPS on my tractor before using it, She lost a Uncle from not having one on his big John Deere when he rolled it over on himself and layed underneth for hours before someone found him dead, It had crushed his chest, My first tractor was 11-12 years ago a compact kubota about the size of yours, It had no ROPs and one of the first things I did was to install one,in all the time I never needed it but it was very comforting knowing I atleast had one just in case,
you like tractors! here is an oldie Kubota I bet you never seen before,
My old L-140 kubota 18 hp 1 cyl diesel,

 

[20 20]

better to have, then not to have

 

[dex3361]

I had a IH 424 and it didn't have a ROPS when I bought it and the wife saw me using it with the front wheels off the ground and said I needed a roll bar or whatever its called so here is what it looked like. I fabbed it up about 10 years ago. This is the tractor as we were loading it as I was trading it in on my Kubotas. It was a real horse but it was a gas without power steering.

 

[Kernopelli]

Your design is very similar to the ROPs I made for my Mitsubishi. I used three lengths of 1 1/2" x1 1/2"x 1/4" square tubing welded together to make a make a 1 1/2 x 4 1/2 section and shaped it exactly as you did and with gussets at every bend and joint. It is sturdy and very heavy, the Mits came with mounting points on the rear axle housing and I also bolted it to the rear trans case ( similar to how some of the Hercules brand rops mount) and fenders as well. Any time I have my tractor near anything with factory ROPS I can't help but make comparisons and mine is at least as sturdy and with more mounting points than any factory ROPS I have seen to date. I am certain that it is sufficient to handle a rollover, backwards flip or anything else reasonable for my particular machine. A lot of TBN'ers disapprove of home made ROPS and often times for good reason but "home made" is not a definitive term meaning that it's something substandard.
Don't forget to get a seat belt too.

 

[dex3361]

Your design is very similar to the ROPs I made for my Mitsubishi. I used three lengths of 1 1/2" x1 1/2"x 1/4" square tubing welded together to make a make a 1 1/2 x 4 1/2 section and shaped it exactly as you did and with gussets at every bend and joint. It is sturdy and very heavy, the Mits came with mounting points on the rear axle housing and I also bolted it to the rear trans case ( similar to how some of the Hercules brand rops mount) and fenders as well. Any time I have my tractor near anything with factory ROPS I can't help but make comparisons and mine is at least as sturdy and with more mounting points than any factory ROPS I have seen to date. I am certain that it is sufficient to handle a rollover, backwards flip or anything else reasonable for my particular machine. A lot of TBN'ers disapprove of home made ROPS and often times for good reason but "home made" is not a definitive term meaning that it's something substandard.
Don't forget to get a seat belt too.

I copied the design off of older Ford 4000 series I thin. I then beefed it up a bit and I think you could have lifted that tractor by the ROPS and not hurt a thing.

 

[GuglioLS]

Stop thinking and start building. Your drawing and plan of action sounds like a go to me. The gussets you drew in at the top are a sound design add that and attaching to the fenders is super strong. Perhaps consider adding a canopy for sun and rain shade. A ROPS with canopy make for a cozy ride.

Larry

 

[Kernopelli]

I copied the design off of older Ford 4000 series I thin. I then beefed it up a bit and I think you could have lifted that tractor by the ROPS and not hurt a thing.

Actually, I was referring to DeepNdirt's design, but yours looked plenty stout for the 424. I am certain you could pick up my tractor as well by the Rops and not do any damage.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Yeah, when I went tractor shopping i made my mind up that it had to have ROPS since we live on a hill. I got lucky and found a Yanmar with ROPS and got a great deal. My mom was happy to knowing I would be safe. I also had the rear tires set out to the widest setting for stability. I just looked on google for pictures of an L140 and found 1!