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Old 10-22-2009, 12:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Re: Building A Shell Garage.

Builder makes a good point, especially on older homes when the decking can be just about anything. Before plywood and OSB was so common and affordable, allot of homes were decked in random widths of 1x material. Some might by 1x4, others were 1x12. And to make it really fun, lenghts are random too. I've also seen tonge and goove boards right next to square edged boards. The gaps can be from 1/8 of an inch to well over half an inch between boards.

It's just a big puzzle up there and if there was some water damage, those boards will do all sorts of things. Especially at the ends, where they like to curl up and expand.

Eddie
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Old 10-22-2009, 12:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: Building A Shell Garage.

If you live in the colder parts of VA, put 6' of ice and water shield from the eaves up on your roof sheathing before shingling.

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Old 10-22-2009, 01:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Re: Building A Shell Garage.

$4000-4500 sounds about right for the slab. As Builder posted that wouldn't include site prep, fill, compaction, so the price could be much higher.

The $5000 Builder said he would charge to frame it (labor only)is a very good price. The only difference is I'd want to make a buck on the material too. I don't like for customers to furnish the material. They have a tendency to buy cheaper (inferior) materials and never seem to have what you need when you need it.

I've put on 300+ roofs. I agree with the others that today's 3-tab shingles aren't much good. That wasn't always the case though. I've put on many 3 tab roofs that lasted 30 or more years. Those were asphalt shingles. You couldn't give me fiberglass 3 tab shingles. Until about 12 years ago we used Senco staples that were 1" wide X 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 long. We NEVER had a problem, but we did it right. You have to have the air pressure set right and keep the staples parallel with the shingles. Those 1" wide staples actually had more contact area with the shingle than roofing nails.

As far as the plumbing rough in goes.....You'll have to trench in water and sewer lines. I suggest hot water heat in the concrete. So sewer & water lines, rough in a bath upstairs, and a hot water heating system should set you back about $13K.

You should be able to get firm prices on everything except anything thats below ground.
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Old 10-22-2009, 01:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: Building A Shell Garage.

Eddie,
Good point about the nail length.
I roofed an apartment building about 30 years ago that I was expecting to have to tear off 3 layers of roofing. Turns out there were 8 layers! They hadn't even bothered to tear off the hip and ridge caps on several layers. After about the 4th or 5th layer the shingles were just nailed into other shingles. Good thing that building was in town out of the wind.
Pops
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Old 10-22-2009, 01:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: Building A Shell Garage.

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Originally Posted by Pops15 View Post
$4000-4500 sounds about right for the slab. As Builder posted that wouldn't include site prep, fill, compaction, so the price could be much higher.

The $5000 Builder said he would charge to frame it (labor only)is a very good price. The only difference is I'd want to make a buck on the material too. I don't like for customers to furnish the material. They have a tendency to buy cheaper (inferior) materials and never seem to have what you need when you need it.

I've put on 300+ roofs. I agree with the others that today's 3-tab shingles aren't much good. That wasn't always the case though. I've put on many 3 tab roofs that lasted 30 or more years. Those were asphalt shingles. You couldn't give me fiberglass 3 tab shingles. Until about 12 years ago we used Senco staples that were 1" wide X 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 long. We NEVER had a problem, but we did it right. You have to have the air pressure set right and keep the staples parallel with the shingles. Those 1" wide staples actually had more contact area with the shingle than roofing nails.

As far as the plumbing rough in goes.....You'll have to trench in water and sewer lines. I suggest hot water heat in the concrete. So sewer & water lines, rough in a bath upstairs, and a hot water heating system should set you back about $13K.

You should be able to get firm prices on everything except anything thats below ground.
It is a good price, but what you have to remember is that framing a garage is not like framing a house. There's no subfloor and no interior partitions. I actually will frame the garage for free if the house is profitable enough. We can frame a big free standing garage in 2-3 days.
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Old 10-22-2009, 03:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Default Re: Building A Shell Garage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieWalker View Post
Builder makes a good point, especially on older homes when the decking can be just about anything. Before plywood and OSB was so common and affordable, allot of homes were decked in random widths of 1x material. Some might by 1x4, others were 1x12. And to make it really fun, lenghts are random too. I've also seen tonge and goove boards right next to square edged boards. The gaps can be from 1/8 of an inch to well over half an inch between boards.

It's just a big puzzle up there and if there was some water damage, those boards will do all sorts of things. Especially at the ends, where they like to curl up and expand.

Eddie
Thanks Eddie...

Most of my roofs are random 1x material with 2.5" in 12" slope... they were all built between 1920 and 1927.

Never had a problem going the double coverage 30# felt over the random 1x decking with 3 tab 25 year shingles... but then the climate is very mild in Oakland CA.

My brother was having his roof done with High Sierra Architect 80 40 years laminated dimensional shingles and the roofer said the manufacturer would not warranty unless the job included $6000 for plywood over the random 1x material... (or OSB)

I called the shingle manufacturer and they sent a written 40 year warranty, after seeing pictures of the existing 1 x material and double coverage 30# felt.

I've seen a lot problems when roofs have multiple layers of comp shingles around here...

Converting my tar and gravel to comp has been a win/win for me... curb appeal, longevity and cost...
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:22 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Default Re: Building A Shell Garage.

While the roofing 'brain-trust' is at it, have you ever heard of this? I was pricing shingles for a friends fishing camp and looking at 3-in-1's. I got a price on 20yr. I then asked for a price on 25yr. OK. I had looked at the 20yr on the display floor (Big Box Store, HD Lowes etc.) I then asked to see the 25 or 30 year shingles. They told me they were the same as the 20yr, and that the extra expense was (basically) buying 'insurance' for the extra longevity!! Sound right??? ~Scotty
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Default Re: Building A Shell Garage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Builder View Post
3 tab shingles are junk and they show all bumps & rafter lines after they settle down.

Use dimensional shingles, they look nicer and hide roof deck defects better.
Besides that, they go down much quicker. They don't cost much more at all when 'ya figure labor savings.
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:20 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Default Re: Building A Shell Garage.

do you think $30 a square foot is too high? I got an estimate today and that is what i came in as.
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Old 10-31-2009, 12:35 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Default Re: Building A Shell Garage.

That sounds high, but then price varies all over the country.

Rule number one when hiring a contractor is to get five bids. Talk to all five and tell them what you want. More then likely, one will stand out from the others. Usually it will be in his questions and suggestions. Price doesn't mean the best deal, and allot of time the lowest price is such total BS that it's just for suckers. Hire him and watch him come up with extras. Same thing with the higest price. Some guys just through out a number and don't really care if they get the job or not.

I tend to be at the higher end of bids, but put more detail into my bids and spend more time with the client to see what they want. I'm not hungry, so my bids are what I want to do the job. If they go elsewhere, that's fine. If they hire me, then they are willing to wait for me.

The important part of the bid is to tell them exactly what you want. A good contractor will ask you all sorts of questions and get as much detail from you as possible. There is the price of the basic building, then there are the extras that add to the price. If the contactor asks about these details, then you know he's going to build what you want. If he just gives a blanket price for the job, then it's anybodies guess what he'll build.

Check to make sure they are legal, check refrences and do a little research. The right guy will make it a great experience. The wrong guy will ruin your life.

Eddie
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