Building A Shell Garage.

[warburtonplayer]

The $30 square foot is from the builder who built my house now. I really want to use him. he othe bids I had some were upwards of $50 an hour? I have a existing building 24x26 enclosed car port with a 12 foot door on in and 2 walk in doors I will be trading the concrete guy for the Slab. All I need to do is pay the $1500 for the concrete. Total $ for the job would have been about $4800 to dig the footers at 3 feet because I have shrink swell soil. That will cut some cost off the top and also I will have the pluming roughed in the building but not hooked up the septic I will do this at a later date. Im tryin to cut as much of the front end of the deal as possible. With me doing the concrete deal the shingles, sidding and the roll up doors I have dropped about $10000 of already so Im sittin around $15000 for the job. Still seams a bit high but I want the job done the right way.

[Donsyl]

Hey Warburtonplayer, A friend of mine here in arkansas is suppose to have a 18 x 22 slab poured for his shop and he said it is about $500. But he is getting some kind of concrete with fiberglass in it and he said it is strong and much cheaper........He is gonna build the forms himself, so all the contractor does is pour the concrete...........Good luck....Don

[warburtonplayer]

Yeah it would be reall cheap but since I have shrink swell the footer have to be 3 foot deap and have twice the metal, I am also going to have fiber put into the mix its only $50 a bag.

[George2615]

Originally Posted by warburtonplayer

I live in VA. I would like to know about how much it would cost me to have a contractor pour a 36x26 slab and just frame the walls trusses rough in the pluming in the loft. I will put the shingles on and the siding. All I need is all the framing done. Any thoughts?

I just added a pole barn addition to my garage. I used 4000 psi mix with fiber added. Mine was a little smaller than yours. (16 x 32 plus a 2 x 10 apron) cement price alone was $1030 plus tax for 10 yds including the fiber. ($95 a yd x 10 yd, plus $80 for fiber mixed in in this part of the country) I supplied the wire mesh and paid my own contractor to install and finish the cement work. Your floor is almost double the size of mine in sq.ft. I found it best to ask friends who they used for floor work and got a better deal on labor paying cash.

Can't help price the framing since I did my own structure, roof, and siding.

[Builder]

Originally Posted by George2615

I just added a pole barn addition to my garage. I used 4000 psi mix with fiber added. Mine was a little smaller than yours. (16 x 32 plus a 2 x 10 apron) cement price alone was $1030 plus tax for 10 yds including the fiber. ($95 a yd x 10 yd, plus $80 for fiber mixed in in this part of the country) I supplied the wire mesh and paid my own contractor to install and finish the cement work. Your floor is almost double the size of mine in sq.ft. I found it best to ask friends who they used for floor work and got a better deal on labor paying cash.

Can't help price the framing since I did my own structure, roof, and siding.

That's the best thing to do-ask others who have done similar work and go with bids from their references.

[BearKiller]

Originally Posted by warburtonplayer

I live in VA. I would like to know about how much it would cost me to have a contractor pour a 36x26 slab and just frame the walls trusses rough in the pluming in the loft. I will put the shingles on and the siding. All I need is all the framing done. Any thoughts?

There are way too many variables to be considered within your question to get a good answer.

There is easily several hundred to several thousand dollars difference between any two outwardly identical buildings, due to differences in quality of construction.

I see these quicky truss-roofed pole-barns and stud-wall garages thrown up that are so flimsy that I don't see them lasting through the first windy day; many don't.

Many will disagree, but I highly dislike trusses as being weak and flimsy; their only advantage is being quick and cheap; proper rafters are by far the best stoutest way to go.

Many don't even plate the top stringer; others double and even triple plate the top.

Some use 4x4s; others use 5x5s or 6x6s.

Some set flimsy trusses on four-foot centers while others will use rafters on 16-inch centers.

To get a good idea of what your money is buying, one must be very specific when asking for quotes and make sure what you specified is what you get after the nails are driven.

I hope this helps in your decisions.

[Builder]

Originally Posted by BearKiller

There are way too many variables to be considered within your question to get a good answer.

There is easily several hundred to several thousand dollars difference between any two outwardly identical buildings, due to differences in quality of construction.

I see these quicky truss-roofed pole-barns and stud-wall garages thrown up that are so flimsy that I don't see them lasting through the first windy day; many don't.

Many will disagree, but I highly dislike trusses as being weak and flimsy; their only advantage is being quick and cheap; proper rafters are by far the best stoutest way to go.

Many don't even plate the top stringer; others double and even triple plate the top.

Some use 4x4s; others use 5x5s or 6x6s.

Some set flimsy trusses on four-foot centers while others will use rafters on 16-inch centers.

To get a good idea of what your money is buying, one must be very specific when asking for quotes and make sure what you specified is what you get after the nails are driven.

I hope this helps in your decisions.

All the truss built garages I have built came with an engineers stamp for wind loads. I've never had one blow over in a wind storm.

Trusses can be very strong. You don't have to buy a minimally speced truss. You can buy heavier trusses and space them closer.

The main reason I don't like them is lost attic space. That's why I prefer a rafter style 2x10, 2x12 roof structure. And yes, I know you can get attic trusses.

[BearKiller]

There was a recently built church in our area that had the entire truss-built roof collapse catastrophically.

It fell so quick and hard that the compression blew out the windows and doors.

Thankfully, there was no one inside when it happened, as they would not have had a chance to get out.

[Builder]

Doubt it was due to the trusses. Probably due to faulty design or implementation of mechanical plans.

[Duffster]

Originally Posted by BearKiller

There was a recently built church in our area that had the entire truss-built roof collapse catastrophically.

It fell so quick and hard that the compression blew out the windows and doors.

Thankfully, there was no one inside when it happened, as they would not have had a chance to get out.

There has to be a news story or something you could post a link to.

I'm with Boulder on this one, I doubt it had anything to do with the trusses.