Another 3PH Splitter

[Oasis]

Thanks again to all of the folks here. I've joined the numbers with my version of a 3PH splitter.

Why/How did I decide on DIY?

First, I enjoy these projects and I had some post surgery down-time (no heavy lifting for a few weeks).

And:

I wanted a 3PH type because it's compact for easy storage (about 11 months of the year here), for off-road driving through my woods, and for low maintenance (no motor, tires...). I could find plenty of gas powered tow behind units locally but not 3PH types.

I cut 14" wood for our stove (16" is the standard in this area). I certainly didn't need the 24" capacity found on the retail units I looked at.

I considered ordering NorthernTools: Powerhorse Horizontal Log Splitter 3 Pt. with 3in. x 18in. Cylinder $599 (+ $175 shipping). But I hate not seeing something like this before I buy _and was not thrilled about spending 22% of the cost on shipping.

99% of my wood is straight grain Douglas Fir that is pretty easy to split. I could select the hydraulic cylinder specifications (force and speed) based on my tractor's flow and pressure.

So, here's my DIY version

Materials:
Some of the steel was on hand, the rest I bought for $0.35 Lb. The H beam is 6x6 @ 20# pf, other is 3/8" to 1" plate, some: angle, sq tube and hitch pins. $35

Parts:
Cylinder 3.5" x 1.5" by 16". For my tractor it specs @ 24000/19500 Lbs (push/pull) @ 2.2/2.7 inches per sec (push/pull). $99
Valve splitter w/ auto detent. $59
Hose and fittings about $100 (I could have spent less here but wanted to use elbows and hose sheath)

Total cost about $300 (less gas, rod, paint..)

I also put together a quick connect hydraulic pressure gauge for about $20.

Splitter Specs:
Length 64"
Weight 200 Lbs (guesstimation)
Maximum wood capacity 17"
Complete push/pull cycle time 13 seconds (maximum)
Splitting cycle time 8 seconds (typical)

See photos-
more coming- The splitter is currently apart for painting.

 

[J_J]

In back tracking all of your figures, is your pressure 2500, and 5.5 GPM?

 

[Oasis]

Close enough (actually 5.6)
My gauge shows 2600 @ rated RPM (I used 2500)

And thank you J_J for pointing out the online calculator at Burden in a prior post. That's what I used.

Dave

We had very nice weather today. The splitter is back together with fresh green paint.

 

[J_J]

Very nice. It looks like a factory made splitter.

 

[glh]

it looks like your cutting blade has a taper, and the cutting edge starts at the bottom and tapers back to the top.
thats how i made my first one as well and i sometimes had a hard time keeping the log down to cut it. it would start to then pop up and out.
i ended up cutting it off and making another one with a little more of a taper then what you have now on yours. but with the starting cutting edge at the top tapering back to the H beam (the top would start the cut) that way it would push the wood down into the cutter. not out/off the cutter.
you might not have this problem but if you do that will fix it
other than that it looks really nice and you did a good job

gary...

 

[Raw Dodge]

Great job! If I may offer one suggestion.On the splitting end,box the I beam end with a flat plate on the end.If you hit a knot just right in the middle of a run it could twist the top of the I beam to one side or the other.When i built my SS splitter,I made this same mistake......If you dont,It wont be long before you bend it.

 

[Oasis]

Thank you for the comments.

The end plate was considered during the build. I'll add that now.

The leading edge is at the top of the wedge (about 1/4"). If I experience the ride-up problem I can weld/grind some more taper to it. There is also a double thick horizontal bead welded along the top of the push plate face. It's hard to see in the photos but it's there to help with the hold.

 

[Oasis]

I finally have some pictures of the splitter in action.

I used it on a stack of wood that I dreaded splitting with my maul. Pretty limbed up Douglas Fir about 24" diameter. I normally cut a lot smaller firewood. I had split these rounds in half with a maul and wedge so I could move them by hand.

The splitter works perfectly. The speed is just as calculated and seems plenty fast. The power is fine for all but the worst pieces of wood (I had to shave some).

I'm very happy with the design and performance.

I connected the hydraulics to my JD 790 FEL curl line. I made a simple wedge that locks the curl linkage into the proper position.

Special thanks to Raw Dodge for urging me to weld a plate onto the end of the beam. I could see that the torque would have screwed up my beam without it.

 

[Raw Dodge]

Very nice ! That splitter made short work of that knotty wood. Im glad you put the brace on first....it is ugly having to straighten it back out,then add the brace anyway.In my case,I actually had to brace the entire I beam,which is 8x6" 28 lb per foot.The structural steel supply house assured me I'd never twist it....but my skid steers relief is 3300psi,with a 5" cylinder,it twisted it on the 5 th peice i split. I spent a few hours with a porta power,torch,and come alongs,along with the skid steers own power just to get it straight again,then braced it heavily,welded with 7018,and my direct current Hobart,no problems since.

 

[jinman]

Oasis, that's a terrific project and one you will get your money out of many times over. It's not just functional, it's darn pretty.

I have a couple of questions. Do you ever grease the slide under the table? I noticed you didn't paint it, but couldn't tell if there was any lube there. My HF splitter sometimes squawks a little because of uneven loads on the table. I'm considering a light oil spray just to cut down the sliding friction.

The next question is if you ever plan to make a catch basket off the end of the splitter? I hate to split logs and have them fall on my toes as I pull apart the final strings holding the two halves together. I'm suffering a bruised big toe right now because I dropped a big oak 1/2 round on my foot. I can't wear steel toed boots because of a foot problem and now I have two foot problems. I'm considering putting a catch basket under the beam so it will be out of the way of the wood coming off the wedge, but will catch splits on each side for easy additional splitting or to toss onto my pile without bending over.