show your homemade splitter pics here

[payton]

That's way cool! Nice job! Do you have more photos of it that you can post? I'd love to see how the log feeder works.

Where did you purchase the chainsaw? How large of a diameter log will this cut?

chainsaw looks diy except for the bar. what do you have for a hydraulic pump and what is powering it?

Payton

[glastron23]

That's way cool! Nice job! Do you have more photos of it that you can post? I'd love to see how the log feeder works.

Where did you purchase the chainsaw? How large of a diameter log will this cut?

will post some more pics. along with the CREW, my dad,my son and my sister who's taking the pics. the log feeder is chain with welded grab dogs and is hydraulic driven. the saw is hand built using a full tooth/semi chisel 404 harvester chain saw/ bar, the motor is a Parker F11 unit from a tree harvester(used unit that i rebuilt), we had to take the saw guard off due to it binding on larger wood (some thing to fix this winter along with adding the 12 foot conveyor,we ran out of time and didn't install it during the build). the bed is made for 12 foot wood, the largest piece we put into it was about 28 inches across, had some trouble splitting it as it was yellow birch and full of knots. we run a triple section pump unit with 2 sections at 10 gpm (1 for the saw,1 for the splitter) and a 5 gpm for all the cylinders using a 15 hp motor.

[spk64]

Here is my splitter. Started with an old splitter someone else built.
Painted it up and added a pto pump.
Here is what I started with.

And what the finished product looks like.




Pump setup

[Paystar]

Here's mine. My father built it, oh, I'd say close to 20 years ago. He had a welding fab and erection business and this was built with pieces of retired equipment. The trailer is an old Lincoln welding machine trailer, was a little fancier back in the day, had a hood over the motor, but as years and motors went by, stuff got ripped off and not replaced. The last couple years prior to his passing, he only cared that stuff ran, not how it looked. So I'm going to eventually fix 'er back up. The wedge is homemade, motor is currently a Toyota, but it has had a GM. Always lent it out and it never got taken care of. That's why the Toyota is not very healthy right now. Pump is a Vickers vane, chain driven off the flywheel, direct drive, no tranny. No idea of the flow, but it just idles and will split anything. Cylinder is 37" long, 4.5" diametre, 2 3/4" piston. Still works good but the motor uses more oil than gas. Once I'm ready to play with it, I will try to find out what kind of flow it requires and maybe do like WilliamBos suggested, run it with a tractor or repower with a small diesel. But even the gas motors use little fuel, as I said it just idles.

[Gizmo2]

hi guy's.. not quite a splitter (don't have pics of the smaller ones we've built) i was bored last winter and built this one...

Oh Sure, now you have managed to make mine look like a joke.
Nice Job!

[MNBobcat]

will post some more pics. along with the CREW, my dad,my son and my sister who's taking the pics. the log feeder is chain with welded grab dogs and is hydraulic driven. the saw is hand built using a full tooth/semi chisel 404 harvester chain saw/ bar, the motor is a Parker F11 unit from a tree harvester(used unit that i rebuilt), we had to take the saw guard off due to it binding on larger wood (some thing to fix this winter along with adding the 12 foot conveyor,we ran out of time and didn't install it during the build). the bed is made for 12 foot wood, the largest piece we put into it was about 28 inches across, had some trouble splitting it as it was yellow birch and full of knots. we run a triple section pump unit with 2 sections at 10 gpm (1 for the saw,1 for the splitter) and a 5 gpm for all the cylinders using a 15 hp motor.

Really nice build. Thanks so much for taking the time to post the photos and answer some questions. I really appreciate.

Where did you find the chain for the feeder? That's some heavy duty chain.

I hadn't thought about the possibility of building my own hydraulic chain saw. I figured most people ordered them new. What did you use for the drive sprocket to drive the chain? Was it the sprocket that would have gone on the saw and you somehow adapted it to the hydraulic motor?

One thing I've been wondering about regarding these hydraulic chainsaws is the ram that extends to cause the saw blade to start cutting into the wood. How do you keep from applying too much down pressure to the chainsaw blade? I have to think that with a ram you could put way too much pressure on the bar. I had thought about using a ram to pivot the bar down but to spring load the bar so that is actually spring pressure that applies the downward pressure. When the ram extends it would apply tension to the spring.

[n444]

:

n444,
Ihave just built a crane for mine[with a set of northern tongs],that i havent really tested.My question for you is do you have to tap the tongs into the wood to get it to stay before you get enough pressure to really grab the log?
Could you post a few more pics of the crane and mabey a few action shots/
ALAN

Alan The leverage of the tongs will hold without tapping, I can even shake the chunk with the crane and it will hold.

[escavader]

:

Alan The leverage of the tongs will hold without tapping, I can even shake the chunk with the crane and it will hold.

Thanks.The winch i used was garbage and would not lift[some teeth stripped out]Igotta get a new winch and cable.Looking for one that will lift the round ,but not too slow in doing it ANY THOUGHTS?
ALAN.

[LPitt]

Those are all some nice splitters. Just shows that there are lots of ways to get the same job done. Here's a pic of mine. 5" cylinder 24" stroke powered with the aux hydraulics from my Bobcat.

[glastron23]

Really nice build. Thanks so much for taking the time to post the photos and answer some questions. I really appreciate.

Where did you find the chain for the feeder? That's some heavy duty chain.

I hadn't thought about the possibility of building my own hydraulic chain saw. I figured most people ordered them new. What did you use for the drive sprocket to drive the chain? Was it the sprocket that would have gone on the saw and you somehow adapted it to the hydraulic motor?

One thing I've been wondering about regarding these hydraulic chainsaws is the ram that extends to cause the saw blade to start cutting into the wood. How do you keep from applying too much down pressure to the chainsaw blade? I have to think that with a ram you could put way too much pressure on the bar. I had thought about using a ram to pivot the bar down but to spring load the bar so that is actually spring pressure that applies the downward pressure. When the ram extends it would apply tension to the spring.

Hi MNBobcat.. sorry for not replying right away... the feeder chain/sprockets are from a company called TSUBAKI, we used the 81X series then welded the cross bars on. The chain is a little heavy but we had limited choices.
The chain drive sprocket is from Oregon and is made for the harvester market, it's a 404 chain 16h /20 mm unit and is 12 tooth drive. The F11 motor shaft is made for this and the drive locking nut has a chain catcher built on the end.
As far as the saw feed piston, we pull the saw unit down into the wood using a pressure/flow control cartridge from Sun hydraulics on the down circuit. This works fine but requires some time to get use to because the saw is running only running on 10 gpm at 2800 psi so the motor can be stalled depending on the wood type and if the chain is getting dull.
In the last picture is the bar lube system, the smaller piston is an air cylinder that we use for chain oil along with 3 check valves and a pressure regulator. When the saw is moved up the oil is taken from the tank through 1 check valve set at 5 psi into the lower side of the piston, when the saw is lowered it forces it through the second check set at 5 psi to the regulator to the bar, the third check is set at 65 psi and is used to dump excess oil back to the tank. It works quite fine.