Remote function on front of tractor...

[tommcintire]

Want to add a remote function on the front of the tractor (think Grapple, Snowplow, etc).

One option is obviously the override of the curl function. Lots of people have written about doing that...

Has anyone added an electric powerpack to their tractor for an additional function? Something like this:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009121515403362&item=9-7883&catname=hydraulic

Curious for the experiences of others. Seems like an attractive alternative (doesn't interfere with the curl function).

-Tom

 

[J_J]

I believe you could get by with something that is smaller, more economical, and easy to do. Like one of these. If wired correctly, the curl operate as usual, and when you want grapple, just push a button.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009121516080687&item=9-5117-A&catname=hydraulic

 

[tommcintire]

Thanks for that idea. I like it, and I can see how I would do it. I have quick-disconnects for the hydraulics for the loader, so I could tie in there...

Here's where I get a bit queasy, however. I have never done hydraulics before... . I don't recognize the types of fittings, etc...

As a result, a few "dumb" questions...

Is there basically just one style of quick-disconnect, with assorted sizes available? The ones on my tractor use a ball-bearing like center to keep fluid from leaking (I have a NH T2310).

How do you bleed the lines? Does the air just escape out past the cylinder seals, or do I need to manually bleed first? On something that produces 2000 PSI, I am not sure how I approach this...

For NPT threads, how do I seal the threads? Teflon tape?

I've done plumbing, electrical, air lines, and more wood construction than I care to remember, but never hydraulics. Got to cut my teeth sometime, but I don't want to screw up my tractor in the process...

-Tom

 

[J_J]

Tom,

Just take your QD's into a hyd supplier, and they can match what you have. After you get things connected, the air will be purged when you run the bucket/grapple though a few cycles. You could either make yourself a new knob with button or purchase one already setup for a push button. If the grapple is to fast, a needle valve or restrictor could be added. The grapple only works when you press the button.

 

[SPIKER]

Thanks for that idea. I like it, and I can see how I would do it. I have quick-disconnects for the hydraulics for the loader, so I could tie in there...

Here's where I get a bit queasy, however. I have never done hydraulics before... . I don't recognize the types of fittings, etc...

As a result, a few "dumb" questions...

Is there basically just one style of quick-disconnect, with assorted sizes available? The ones on my tractor use a ball-bearing like center to keep fluid from leaking (I have a NH T2310).

How do you bleed the lines? Does the air just escape out past the cylinder seals, or do I need to manually bleed first? On something that produces 2000 PSI, I am not sure how I approach this...

For NPT threads, how do I seal the threads? Teflon tape?

I've done plumbing, electrical, air lines, and more wood construction than I care to remember, but never hydraulics. Got to cut my teeth sometime, but I don't want to screw up my tractor in the process...

-Tom

Tom:

the air will work its way out, best to have fittings on TOP when mounting a cylinder to help this if the fittings are under or on the side then the cylinder will trap air and not loose it... You can Bleed the lines by leaving them slightly loose too.

There are different sizes (like hose size) and 2 common types of QD fittings. Ball and Cone checks. these are readily available all over.

Teflon (Tape or Dope) is not good on Hydraulics, there is a special purpose type that can be used though.

Mark

 

[tommcintire]

Thanks to both of you for your replies... I am starting to get a feel for the "tricky" aspects of this build, and they are not feeling quite as scary.

For the knob, I will be modifying my existing one. The T2310 has fast & slow buttons on the control to upshift & downshift the hydrostatic transmission. Very nice when digging into the manure pile and moving manure around. Adding a button won't be difficult. I have had it apart before, and there is space if I am creative .

What's the best approach to plumb to a valve? Have hoses made to the correct length (and/or purchase appropriate length hoses)? Or is there a "hard plumbing" method that is more appropriate. Schedule 40 black iron came to mind, but I checked the ratings, and it is only good to about 200 PSI (plus or minus, depending on size). Obviously not sufficient...

Once again, I have to say that this forum is wonderful. Good quality answers are forthcoming. For those of us figuring stuff out, it is much appreciated!

-Tom

 

[kennyd]

Tom,

First, you need to be in the hydraulics forum, this is discussed all the time. Use these terms to do some searching in there for HOURS of reading:

diverter
3rd function
WR Long
Fassi
grapple

Stay away from black pipe fittings and Teflon tape!

 

[BHD]

Teflon tape can flake off and get into the system and plug things, I use a Teflon past pipe sealant, use real Hydraulic fittings not the Cast iron as said,

is there an option for an additional factory valve?