Home built cab for 2010 Kubota L 2800

   / Home built cab for 2010 Kubota L 2800 #1  

RedFox123

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May 11, 2010
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I am not quite finished. The Plexiglas was the most expensive item on the entire cab. One sheet of .200 thickness Plexiglas (4x8) cost $160.00 at Menards. I cut it into three pieces, which covered the front windshield, back window and right side. I went with the thinner stuff (to save some money) for the left (door) side. That was around $80.00 for two pieces. The cab has a lot of glass area because when operating a tractor, I like to see the bucket, front tires, etc; especially when working along an open hole. The cab from Kubota is approx $5,000. and a Curtis aftermarket cab is approx $3200 with soft sides. The soft does not work along the northern Michigan shoreline (where I am) do to the intense winds. The winds ripped and distorted my other soft cab and bent the framework. This is my redneck cab that is built out of construction grade lumber.

If money was not an issue, I would build a cab out of finish oak lumber, use spindles and scalloped fancy moldings to compliment the finish look. I would design more curves and angles to make it look unique. However, using heavy construction grade lumber limits the amount of curves you can create. I made this cab solid and tried keeping expenses down. The front 2x6 is bolted to the back of the bucket arm support through existing holes. I did not drill any holes in the tractor or ROPS. I used U-bolts and clamped it to the ROPS so the cab actually sits on 2 - 2x8 pieces which holds the cab off the fenders and allows it to flex with the movement of the tractor. Before I put the glass in, I took the tractor out and dug, went over some bumps and lifted the front wheels off the ground with the bucket to make sure the cab will flex with the tractor movement. It seems to be holding up - at least for now.

I could have installed the Plexiglas like you would a house window with moldings but used mirror holders instead. This way if I get a hot day and want to take the glass out, I take my cordless screwdriver, take out a few screws and the glass comes right out. I still have some rubber molding to install that will fill the gaps around the fender areas and the door. I built it extra tall ( I am 6-3) so I can get on and off without bumping my head. The spare pieces of Plexiglas were used to fill in the small areas in the lower front areas of cab and behind the seat, which will aid in blocking those winter winds. The cabs purpose is to block the wind and was not designed to be air tight, nor did I plan to heat it. I only want a wind block.

I am ordering the orange plate with black letters that reads "Kubota" which will tie in the orange tractor and black cab and will be placed on the header over the front window. I designed the right side window (passenger side) to slide so I can open the window and get to the bucket and rear three point controls while standing outside. Often when working you need to operate the bucket or rear lift while off the tractor. The access door is lightweight and can be locked in the open position. The plexiglass actually extends beyond the door frame which covers the areas that appear open by the fenders. The rafters are a foot apart with 3/4 inch exterior plywood roof. I installed some metal brackets that will hold a cloth covered 2x4 across the inside of the front windshield in the event of transport. This helps support the large piece of glass when transporting on a trailer and traveling down the road over 55 mph. I designed the cab as I went, working on it a few hours as I found time in between homework and everything else.
 

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   / Home built cab for 2010 Kubota L 2800 #2  
Very nice. It really looks like it will keep those winter winds away from you and the cold spring winds we are getting now!
 
 
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