rough cut lumber anyone know about it

   / rough cut lumber anyone know about it #1  

BryanM

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I am interested in building a machine shed and was wanting to use rough cut lumber for building. I would be using as purlines and beams not posts! But is that a good idea due too shrinkage. How long do you wait before using green lumber?

Anybody ever build with rough cut lumber? any info would help!
 
   / rough cut lumber anyone know about it #2  
Nothing wrong with using rough lumber, it's usually stronger than "dimensional" lumber. A 2 x 4 is actually 2 inches by 4 inches, not 1.5 x 3.5.

I'd say you can use it right away, no difference from the other stuff. If you're concerned about shrinkage, let it air dry (well stacked and with stickers between each layer) for a couple months.

If you need a building permit, be sure your local inspectors don't have a problem with rough lumber. Here any lumber used for building has to be stamped, although they won't get too sticky about an accessory building.

Sean
 
   / rough cut lumber anyone know about it #3  
I used to do a lot of flooring and roofing systems with rough lumber...for precision work you need to keep a caliper/guage on hand...to maintain uniform depth/dimensions at bearing points...

i.e., some beam members may need to be notched (or shimmed) at the posts to keep the top of the beams flush...rough lumber (non KD) dries and shrinks at different rates due to density etc...
 
   / rough cut lumber anyone know about it #5  
We used rough cut oak for a run-in shed/feed room building. Posts are PT 6x6; girts, joists, rafters and siding are all rough cut oak. We used the wood within a week of coming from the mill since if you let oak dry too long you'll bend more nails than you'll drive ;)

We haven't had any structural problems due to shrinkage, though the siding that was installed tight board to board now has gaps between each board (as expected)
 
   / rough cut lumber anyone know about it #6  
All finished lumber starts out as rough cut. Last fall I wanted to thin out some of the basswood trees in my sugar bush. Once some of it dried I planed it and panelled the family room. The 2x4s were used rough in the basement. Have some 2x10's left for framing a new woodshed, then 1x8's for siding. I realize basswood isn't the strongest so I don't use it for beams or roof joists....
$350 to the sawyer gave me enough wood for a years worth of projects plus I sold the leftover logs to a local mill for $750...almost as good as free scrap metal
 
   / rough cut lumber anyone know about it #7  
Saw sized (rough) lumber is more apt to be not of constant controlled widths and thicknesses. Look at the ends of the units and see if there is reasonable uniformity from stick to stick.
If you need any metal hangers, caps and such, most manufacturers produce rough sizes but you will need to special order them as very few retailers will carry them on their shelves.
Nothing wrong with dripping green lumber for framing-just nail it up as fast as you buy it or this time of the year it will start walking out of the pile right in front of your eyes!
 
   / rough cut lumber anyone know about it #8  
in a way, green wood is great for building sheds as poles and rafters. Once you put a nail in it, it will put a small surface of rust on the outside part of nail from green wood. Once wood dries, the nails tends to stop rusting and act like a shank nail. It will be impossible to pull out. Ask me how I know! I agree, if using green wood for siding or doors, it will show gaps. Better to use dried wood for siding.
 
   / rough cut lumber anyone know about it #9  
I know of homes that are built out of rough lumber that are over 60 years old and still look good. They have siding and dressed flooring over the rough sub floor and sheet rock and you would never know that they were framed and sheeted out of rough lumber. I also know of newer homes that have been built out of rough lumber. One thing as has been mentioned you need to stack it flat, off the ground [first layer] and use stickers[boards] between each row of boards that you have stacked to let air circulate around the boards. I have heard some say let it dry for about 6 months and others say let it air dry for about a year. If you let it air dry and it is out side put something on top of it to keep it dry and in any case put weight on it to keep it from cupping and twisting. Also coat the ends of the boards to keep them from drying too quickly and causing checking [cracks] on the ends of the boards. I have seen people go to the saw mill and get a load and come home and build a pretty nice out building out of rough lumber and since it was just an out building it did a fine job for its intended purpose. Some wood is hard to near impossible to drive a nail in it after it has dried, you need to take that into consideration also. There are home remedy type coatings that you can put on them that will make them last for decades, better than a lot of the weather proof stains that you get but they are not probably as environmentally friendly according to some groups, but not my group.
 
   / rough cut lumber anyone know about it #10  
Built a shed and barn out of rough cut before the local mill closed. Love it! Too bad great prices and strong. Like someone said watch the bowing, cuping and twisting. I've used it green with no problems.

Guess I built the shed about 10 years ago and the barn about 5 or 6. both still look good and both are still straight. Everyone used to build with it and we have some 100 year old barns that still look good.

Rob
 
 
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