JD Three-Point Pallet Fork Adapter

[Runner]

Finally got around to building an adapter to use my quick attach pallet forks on the three-point hitch.

Used (2) 17 inch long pieces of 10 inch wide channel iron for the main attachment points. Bridged between them with 2x2x1/4 tube and 3x3 angle. Tabs for the pin connections were made from 2 inch by 3/8 inch bar stock.

The attachment point for the top hooks was made using 1 1/4 inch round stock.

I knew I had a weak spot in the top link attachment with the angle iron, so I tried to "box" it in by welding in a piece of 1/8 inch thick sheet steel, but it wasn't enough. If you look closely at the top angle in the "load test" picture, you can see it bowing.

So, I added a 2x2 angle for reinforcing in back of the 3x3 angle. Haven't had a chance to re-test it yet, but I feel that this will do the trick....

I think the "test rock" must weigh in at around 800 lbs or so, because I could just barely lift it a foot or so with the forks on the loader.

Incidentally, A BIG THANKS to you guys who suggested using bi-metal hole saws for this stuff in the recent "hole-making" thread. I used Lennox hole saws for all the holes and they worked beautifully. I feel really stupid for not trying them sooner...

 

[MJPetersen]

Nicely done!:thumbsup:

I do not believe that your 1/8 " box in will be adequate for the max load that the 3 pt is capable. I would recommend using a piece of box tubing like you used in the bottom 1/4 " wall would do a lot to strengthen the construction. Then round the sharp corners and paint it your choice of colors. :laughing:

With the nice adapter you have other possibilities too. You have some topsoil to move. Put a bucket on the back and you can carry 2x as much per trip. Or a bucket for tool tote on a project to the back corner. Lots of possibilities.

Mike

 

[beenthere]

I just had a rolled steel bar welded across my JD forks that the iMatch hooks to, and then had a top bracket added for the top hook of the iMatch.
Left off all that extra steel and doesn't interfere with the forks on the FEL.

 

[Runner]

MJ - Thanks for the kind words. You're right about the 1/8 steel for the box member. I think it might have worked if it would have been actually welded to the channels on each end. As it was, I just welded it to the inside of the 3x3 angle. Didn't work.

I considered using the 2x2 tube for the top member too, but, just eyballing it, I felt that it wouldn't be able to handle it either.

beenthere - Your way is the way to go. Cleaner and lighter. I was just being **** about not wanting to modify the forks. The hydraulic toplink makes them a lot more useable too.

Anyway, I think the 2x2x1/4 angle that was added to the back inside of the 3x3 (and now, welded to the channel on each end) will do the job.

Further disclosure: I also noticed while I was getting ready to paint the thing yesterday that all the bending and re-welding moved the channels out of alignment, so the outside corners are now pointed in a little. Wound up having to grind on the face of the round bars to get it to fit in the pallet fork hooks.

All in all, not the greatest project, but I think it will work.

As Eddie Haskell would say, "Let this be a lesson to you fellows".

 

[beenthere]

Runner
You did good getting the angle right for the forks.

Also, just noticed the box on the FEL. Did you cover that construction in another thread? Looks real handy and well made.

Here is a double pallet load of firewood..had to add extra weight to the plow to "balance" the load.

 

[Runner]

beenthere,

Yeah, the carryall is covered in another thread. The seat, sides and tailgate are all removable.

 

[Runner]

Final product, shot with Rustoleum. Doesn't look too bad.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Final product, shot with Rustoleum. Doesn't look too bad.

doesnt look bad at all. great job! :thumbsup: