spurlocktool
Bronze Member
I've long wanted a ring roller but could never find a decent small one used, and new ones are really pricey. My local Kubota dealer happened to mention, "Some guys just get some 10" pipe, buy the rings and make their own." I did and am really pleased with the result.
I use this for compacting after sowing cover crop seed in my orchard (this next time with my newly built seed drill) . Ring rollers are also great for following a disc to break up clods, or after tilling to compact overly fluffed up seed beds. I used an old home made tongue from a solid roller I'd made from a length of corrugated culvert pipe years ago. It had plain steel "donuts" for bearings. I only use it about 2 hrs. a year so wear is not a problem, I just give each bushing a shot of grease before each use. For heavier duty use it could easily be made with flanged ball bearings. The 26 rings cost me $13.00 each, so the whole project cost under $350.00
Some construction details:
- The core is 10" steel pipe which is 10 1/2" OD (got it for free from a friend). This matches what I've measured on commercial ring rollers. The ID of the rings is 11 3/4", so individual rings are able to float over clods or bumps without lifting all the others off the ground.
- The rings are 2 3/8" wide, and I made the overall length of the pipe to be 2" longer than the total width of all rings (again copied from commercial rollers). This allows the rings to flop around freely and better deal with uneven surfaces.
- The end plates are 1/4" steel. The left end is welded to the pipe, but I bolted on the right end plate (to a 3" channel cross piece welded in the end of the pipe). I did this thinking I might want to add weight inside the pipe. Another approach would be to weld both ends on tight and add a pipe plug in one end to add water for weight. Or another would be to add the weight to the tongue frame. For my purposes I haven't needed more weight.
- The axle shaft is 1" steel rod. Each end plate has a 1" shaft collar welded to it, with a set bolt to lock to the axle.
I use this for compacting after sowing cover crop seed in my orchard (this next time with my newly built seed drill) . Ring rollers are also great for following a disc to break up clods, or after tilling to compact overly fluffed up seed beds. I used an old home made tongue from a solid roller I'd made from a length of corrugated culvert pipe years ago. It had plain steel "donuts" for bearings. I only use it about 2 hrs. a year so wear is not a problem, I just give each bushing a shot of grease before each use. For heavier duty use it could easily be made with flanged ball bearings. The 26 rings cost me $13.00 each, so the whole project cost under $350.00
Some construction details:
- The core is 10" steel pipe which is 10 1/2" OD (got it for free from a friend). This matches what I've measured on commercial ring rollers. The ID of the rings is 11 3/4", so individual rings are able to float over clods or bumps without lifting all the others off the ground.
- The rings are 2 3/8" wide, and I made the overall length of the pipe to be 2" longer than the total width of all rings (again copied from commercial rollers). This allows the rings to flop around freely and better deal with uneven surfaces.
- The end plates are 1/4" steel. The left end is welded to the pipe, but I bolted on the right end plate (to a 3" channel cross piece welded in the end of the pipe). I did this thinking I might want to add weight inside the pipe. Another approach would be to weld both ends on tight and add a pipe plug in one end to add water for weight. Or another would be to add the weight to the tongue frame. For my purposes I haven't needed more weight.
- The axle shaft is 1" steel rod. Each end plate has a 1" shaft collar welded to it, with a set bolt to lock to the axle.
