excavator ripper tooth steel type?

[burntside bob]

I need to build a ripper tooth for my excavator.
I am thinking of using a consumed CAT D10 dozer blade cutting edge for the ripper shank it is made of DH-2 steel which has a hardness shore of 45 to 55.
I could also get a used dozer cutting edge for D10 of DH3 steel which has a hardness shore of 50 to 60.
My question is can this steel be cut to shape a shank and then be welded together to made a ripper tooth, with out compromising the strength of the steel, given it has this high hardness rating?
I also am thinking that while I am at it I would make a root rake for the CAT
D3 dozer blade from this steel, any comments on this?
Thankyou.
Merry Christmas
Burntside Bob

 

[wldrbob]

i make my teeth out of mild steel and hard surface them they last real good i used double 1 inch for the shank 18 in long and hardsurfaced the face and tip if you just hardsurface the top it always stays sharp

 

[burntside bob]

Question for wldrbob
What is your mild steel - is it 36,000 steel?
Are you referencing a dozer rake or frost tooth?
Your shank is 2 inches wide, two inch thick pieces welded together, if this is for a ripper tooth for excavator what is excavator is it for and has it failed - broken? As it is mild steel.

 

[BruceWard]

I tried to drill a 3/4" hole through a 5' long 10" tall CAT branded cutting edge using a drill press and titanium coated or better drill bits that do a great job in mild steel. Over an hour later I gave up and took it to a friend to burn the holes. I had dulled no fewer than 10 drill bits of various sizes and could not drill a hole larger than 1/4". The back side drilled ok, it was the last 1/8" or so on the hardened side that was so difficult to drill.

Are the cutting edges you are referring to hardened throughout or on the cutting side? Mine was hard everywhere but would drill up to the last 1/8" when the cutting edge started cutting the drill bits.

 

[DJ54]

You don't say how big of an excavator you have, or what size ripper tooth you plan to build. I'm thinking it may be easier to find a shank from either a scarifier, and/or dozer, then just build the bracket to hold it.

If you find a common shank that is large enough to suit your needs, and make the bracket so the shank can be replaced fairly easy, if it gets bent, broken, or worn, you can switch it out. Plus the benefit of replaceable wear tips/teeth.

I'm betting there are big iron bone yards, with rippers on dozers with shanks just the size you are looking for.

 

[wldrbob]

yes just 36 mild steel light frost and clay ripping no problems breaking anything its on a 580 6 in wide at the top straight back angled front 3and 1/2 x2 at the smallest point then coming back out for the tooth

 

[UMFINC]

Hello bob did u ever make the ripper u were thinking about making in 2009 Im in same boat I need to manufacture reversing rippers for a hd-16 front blade has 4 pockets for reversing rippers.What metal did u use and how did it perform. I wish I can find an original reversing shank or a complete rear ripper assembly.


thanks for any info

 

[PILOON]

I'm a Bob as well. LOL.
What you probably want to use is T-1 steel which is what is used for cutting edges and teeth.
ps, I used to own a HD-16, great machine!

 

[David Devuono]

Not sure about brazing, but doubt you can weld harded material to your bucket. I tried to weld a bolt on cutting edge once and it failed. I just used 1.25 x 1.25 solid bar, mild steel. As the edge gets warn out I just build up some weld and regrind them. I actually used two 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 trailer hitch ball mounts for the steel cause that was what I had on the shelf.

 

[Arc weld]

You're much better off finding a used ripper shank with replaceable teeth. It's going to be very frustrating and time consuming cutting apart a D10 bade to make into the things you want. Anytime you're dealing with hardened steel you need to take special precautions to weld it. Sometimes is just can't be successfully welded no matter what you do.