my version of a KK xb dump trailer

[600rider]

Well here goes, After rereadding Iplayfarmers thread last week (all 250 some posts) on his hydraulic dump trailer. I started my dump trailer Thursday. It will be a copy of the King Kutter XB 1.5, but a little bigger 48x60x18.
The first pic is what I came home with for $70 dollars!!!! (minus the 1/2 ratchet!) The hubs are from rear axles from two front drive mid sized GM cars, I removed them cost $20. The wheels and tires I got from a local lawnmower repair man, 23x10.5x12 $20, while I was loading I spied the hydraulic cylinder and asked how much? $30 with the hoses!
the next pic is half of what I got done Thursday and Friday, one of the walking beam axle with the hubs bolted up. Next is what I have done on Saturday, the axles are done and mocked up together at 48" wide which is what the trailer will be.

I used my HF horizontal bandsaw to cut everything except one of the spacers for the hubs for that I did a test and was racing the bandsaw with my Chicago electric abrasive cut off saw 3.5 x 1/4 wall pipe the bandsaw won hands down 3 to not even one!!
For sale one abrasive cut off saw first $50 takes it :laughing:

 

[sandman2234]

Hard to beat a bandsaw, cheapo or high dollar! No takers on that saw at this address, lol.
Project looking good!
David from Jax

 

[Drexel]

Looks like your off to a good start! I'm pretty sure I see a dump trailer build in my future. I look forward to watching this trailer come together.

 

[David Devuono]

What size chop saw? My 14" chopsaw cuts about 5 times faster then my bandsaw. Problem is I have no room to deal with the shower of sparks so I use my bandsaw 100%now. I will have to take a picture of my collection of broken bandsaw blades after two years.

 

[600rider]

Sorry it has taken almost a week to get back on here and up date this build.
First to answer David Devuono, it is a 14" saw with an 1/8 Sait wheel on it. I love my HF band saw and amost never use the abrasive saw. I've had the Bandsaw for about 15 or 20 years and had to replace the motor on it but it has been a great saw for the money, I think I paid $129.99 on sale back then.

Ok now back to the dump. I have been working on it most days this week except for Friday and Sunday. I got the base done Saturday and found that I didn't leave enough clearance on the tires so I had to add a 1/2" spacer at the hub mount, I used 3" pipe with 1/4" wall same as I used to begin with I should have made that spacer 1 1/2" like I was going to but oh well it is fixed now and only added 1" overall to the width. That being said I think it looks good. Have I told you that I am doing a fly-by the seat of my pants build with no prints!! :confused2: just what I can remember the KK XB looks like. Our local TSC had 2 of them about 2 years ago and I looked at them very closely.

The first pic is the base or frame upside down. I wasn't sure how tall to make it and I think I have it too high, I will address that later. The axle pins are made from stock I had in my shop and had to have it turned down to fit inside the axle pipe. They will be held on with a lynch pin so I can take them off if I ever need to.
Pic No.2 is just another shot you can see the gusset I put on each side to brace the axle support. It is one pc. 3/16 steel 28" long and 9" high at the tallest point.
Pic no. 3 is a side view of the gusset.

The frame is 2"x2"x1/8" square tubeand the cross member is 2"x3"x3/8" rectange tube, the uprights are 3" C with a 3/16" web and the axles are 1 1/16 round barwith a shoulder turned in the end for the washer that was welded on. I am using a Miller Matic 250 amp mig with .035 wire and ultra mix gas. most of the stock I have had laying arround the shop but have bought some stuff, but not much........yet!

Ok now some questions.
1. If someone has a KK XB or a trailer with a walking beam axle I would like to know the hight from the top of the wheel to the botom of the bed.
2. what is the distance form the front of the bed to the end of the hitch.
3. What is the distance from the botom of the bed to the center of the pin on the cylnder pin at the stationary end of said cylnder?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I think you are going to be very pleased with the GM hubs. I haven't really had problems with my trailer, but I'm always a little wary of the strength of my lawnmower axles. The walking beam axles are going to be a huge improvement, too. I still use mine all the time. It is nice to have.

Another improvement I've considered since the build was to put a trailer ball coupler vs. the pin hitch. I have a ball on my 4 wheeler to move light trailers, and I'd like to hook the dump to it occasionally. It's easy to put a ball on a lawn mower too.

 

[Army grunt]

Looks really great.
Army Grunt

 

[600rider]

Thank you Army.

Iplay, I have a dump trailer that I built about 25 years ago that from an old 2 wheeled tractor with no bearings at all and the noise drove me nut ( hugh that explains alot!) so I retro fitted it with hubs from an Olds 88 about 10 years ago and works great! So I know I will like them on this one. Also I built a 6 1/2' by 16' trailer from a champer and kept the wheels and tires and they have the same bolt pattern so I can put them on this one and take it down the road with the truck to get mulch or to the gravel pit about a mile away if I want to. I guess it will be an on and off road trailer! :thumbsup:
After reading all the posts about your trailer build and seeing all the concern about your axles I am glad to here that they have held up well for you. I will be using a 2" ball coupler on mine. I might build it just like the KK and make a convertable hitch still up in the air on that one.

I do have the bed started and ....... just got a call from the machinist about my hinge pins and have to go pick them up! so I will continue later!

 

[600rider]

Got the pins! well here are a few pics from yesterdays progress. I got most of the deck frame done just need to put in a few cross members and gusset the corners.

Pic no. 1 is just a front view the bed is just sitting there for now.
Pic no. 2 is the right side view and really shows the trailer is comming together nicely.
Pic no. 3 is the rear. I have it sitting there with the bed flush with the back of the bottom frame but I will move it back about 1 1/8 inch to mount the hinges. The KK has the hinges mounted about 14" towards the front but when it dumps the back of the box comes within about 8" or 10" from the ground kind of a teeter totter effect, I feel that would inhibit the material from dumping out and wanted to get more ground clearance so thats why I moved the hinges back.
Pic no. 4 another shot from the rear at a lower angle. You can really see the walking beam axles from here, I think they will work nicely. That piece of 2"x3" tube between the axle suports is loose at the moment and will end up being the rear mount for the lift cylnder. I haven't figured where to possition it yet.
The front and rear cross members and the 2 middle tubes in the bed frame are 2"x2"x1/8" and the outer 2 tubes are 1 1/2"x2"x1/8" only because thats what I had on hand. I feel The 2 inside tubes will do the brunt of the lifting so thats why I put the bigger tubes in there. The front mount for the cylnder will be made from the same 2"x3"x3/8" tube that the axle beams and the lower frame cross member are made from. Hopefuly I will get the hinges done tommorow and will be able to get some pics of the bed tilted! :dance1:

 

[600rider]

I just found a misstake in my first post. the trailer is 48"x72"x 18" not 60".

I still need info on cylnder mounting location! and also about the deck to wheel hight.

 

[2manyrocks]

Is this going to be an off road or on road dump trailer?

Could anyone direct me to Iplayfarmer's dump trailer?

The HF bandsaws do much better if you buy good blades and spend the time to align the saw.

 

[600rider]

2manyrocks, yes the intended use is mainly off road but with the automotive hubs and my camper wheels and tires I can take it on road if the need arises, but I will keep the wider garden tractor tires on it most of the time.

I do use what I think is a better grade of blade. I use Olsen blades from TSC and you are right if you take the time to set it up properly it will cut real nicely.

Here is the link to Iplayfarmers build. His is stricktly an off road trailer and is a looooong read but well worth it.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/87841-dump-trailer.html

 

[sandman2234]

As I started reading this post, the first thing I noticed was that you needed to tie those two axles mounting brackets together to combine the strength, and keep the alignment in check. The last pictures you posted show that you have done just that, with the piece of rectangle tubing. Can't help with the requested information, because my dump trailer build was a little bigger than your project. (all dump trailers are not created equal, lol)
Keep up the good work!
David from jax

 

[600rider]

I haven't posted much in the last few days but thats because I have been working and figuring things out by trial and error which seems to have worked.

Thanks Sandman, I have figured out the cylnder placement by reading through Iplayfarmers build again :confused2: and read where he was advised to have atleast 15* angle on the cyl. when it was down and about 45* to 50* on the bed when in the dump possition. I have about 17* on the cyl. and about 48* on the bed in the up possition. I still think it sits too high but cannot/will not change it now. I mounted the stationary end of the cyl. between the upright for the axle but that didn't work because when I lifted the bed the suport jack would rise off the floor. I got on line and checked the pics for the KK xb and noticed that the cyl. actualy mounted infront of the axle so I went back and redid the mount so now the pin is about 4.5" in front of the axle. Now when it is raised it actualy pushes the tounge down. :thumbsup:

On Saturday when I was making the hinges I couldn't get it to dump right with hinge at the very rear of the bed as I didn't want the rear to dip down when the bed was raised so I went to my friends house to check out his Carmate dump trailer's hinge system and coppied that which ment I had to cut 7" off the back of the frame and moved the hinge forward which lets the rear dip down but I still have good ground clearance. In the end the problem was the result of where the cylnder was mounted not the design of the hinge but I am satisfied whith the hinge and as it turns out was a much simpler design than mine

 

[easygo]

Good looking trailer there. I also read the thread back when Iplayfarmer was still working on his trailer. Almost four years later I still have not found the time to build my own, but have most of the metal gathered.

What size hydraulic cylinder are you going to use and how are you going to power it?

 

[600rider]

I had ben gathering materials for that long too and finealy decided I had what I needed to get started.

"What size hydraulic cylinder are you going to use and how are you going to power it?"

I have a double acting 3"x18" with a 1 1/8" rod the cylnder was mounted on a machine and had no yokes on it so I had to make some and weld them on (I took the cylnder apart to do this)
Power will be from a 12volt power pack from a hyd. lift table the was being thrown out at work.

 

[sandman2234]

Hinges on the "Ugly dump trailer" were "built by bridgeport"
David from jax



My deck doesn't quite go up as far as I really wanted it to, but I have never had anything on it that wouldn't dump, so I guess it is just barely enough. Since I primarily pull it with the tractor, I have the ability of being able to raise the tongue with the 3pt and also pulling forward makes things want to slide down the aluminum deck.
What are you going to use for a floor on the trailer? I used aluminum because I had it and so far it really has worked out great.
David

 

[600rider]

David, I am getting .090 steel for the deck and sides and it will have two beends on the top edge 1"x 1.5" then 18" to the deck. I work in a sheetmetal shop as a fabricator and have access to the shear to cut it and a press brake to bend it. We have .030, .060, .090, .125 and .179 thickness on hand at all times. I really wanted .075 thick but we don't have any so the .090 thick which is called 13 gauge is what I will use.

 

[Rio_Grande]

out of curriosity why not go thicker? Our manufactured trailer has .125 (1/8") and has only had gravel and wood hauled in it and it has a few waves. Course thicker material will weigh more.

 

[600rider]

Rio, I have an old trailer that I built about 20 years ago and just used .060 and it has held up very well. I didn't want the added weight or cost of thicker mtl. This dump trailer will out live me by decades! :laughing: