Metal barn roofing reused as siding?

[dapper]

Thanks to the wonderful Ohio weather, a few months ago we had a short hale storm that dropped goose egg size hail balls for about 10 min. Personal didn't have any real damage, but some pretty dinged up places around. Neighbor's 15yr old pole barn has enough damage to the metal roof, that the insurance company is going to replace the roofing. In my opinion, sure it is dinged up, but the panels should be salvageable.
Now the question: What are your thoughts suggestions on using this dinged up roofing as siding over existing old wooden barn in need of paint? I like my wood barn as is, and wouldn't want to replace all the siding on all the barn(s), but there is a small area that certainly use some cleaning up and the siding might be just the thing. Any thoughts/suggestions on how this roofing/siding might hold up and what it will look like? Any one ever re purposed old roofing like this?

 

[smstonypoint]

In my area, 5-V and corrugated roofing panels were popular for siding barns and other farm buildings. I haven't noticed those panel types being used much for siding in newer barn/outbuilding construction, but both the 5-V and corrugated panels have held up well over the years when used for siding. (Classic rib now appears to more popular as a metal siding.) The 5-V and corrugated panels may not be the most aesthetically-pleasing type of siding, but they are certainly functional.

Steve

 

[KennyG]

I don't know how it will look, but it should work fine since you will be able to use the same holes to fasten it again. The problem comes if you don't seal the holes again. It will rust like crazy around open holes.

Over 40 years ago, we used grain bin metal "seconds" (unbent, of course) to side a wooden shed and it's still in good condition. Siding is almost permanent if you can avoid holes and contact with the ground.

 

[BHD]

I used take off sheets (hail dammaged) on my barn. it was cheap tin and help the barn a lot, (in my case we ran them horzonaly),

 

[two_bit_score]

The holes won't make much difference in the next 15-20 years. If you want you can put a rivet in them.

 

[smiley]

If you're going over wood siding the hole location won't make much difference as you'll hit something 99.9% of the time. For that .01 %, get a small box of the larger size metal roofing screws that are used to screw the lap together with a dab of the caulk used for steel roofing, I think it's a polyurethane caulk because they say the chemicals in silicone can react with the steel. I have used silicone for years and don't really see any problems .
Over the years I have put used steel on several buildings as roofing and siding and as long as the roofing screw washers cover the holes, or caulk was used, there have been few problems. If the screws are in the flats there's little chance of leakage especially on siding. If the screws or nails were through the ridges in the old fashioned way, it's a little touchier but if sealed carefully works ok. The only problem I ever (and still have) was with used aluminum roofing I put on my 20 x 40, 200 yr old hop barn over 40 yrs ago. I used nails through the ridges as was the custom then and the aluminum being more flexible than steel, works in the wind and cracks develop under the nail heads. I have patched with both roof cement and silicone and the silicone is far superior. I now put short roofing screws through the flats next to the nail hole on both sides, pull the nail and fill the crack and hole with silicone and put in a new roofing screw. This seems to stop the problem so far. I guess I can't gripe about it too much though as I think I paid about $20 for it in the late 60's and it's still there.

 

[Alien]

I have used corugated iron on sheds and horse shelters that has been hail damaged and it looks fine so long as you fit it neatly. I used a ball pein hammer to knock the bad dents out a bit and it is hard to tell where they were. I have also bought and scrounged other sheets to use for future projects. The iron will outlast me. Fitting it over the top of the timber is a great idea as that will act as an insulation as well.

 

[dapper]

Thanks all! Can always count on you folks... :thumbsup:
If all goes as planned I think I will take the chance on the roofing/siding. It is the "white" roofing, and as my barns are white (I don't expect a match) it should outlive me just fine. As the roof it is coming off of, is no way as large as my barns, I will only be doing a small amount, but that is the most ragged part now, and could use some improvement.
So no one sees any problems with putting right over the existing wooden siding? Just nail it directly? I am familiar with the nail's with rubber washer at head, have been using for repair for years, but is there something better to mount the siding with? Screw's for a screw gun?? Dab of caulk at each hole do you think? How far should it be held off the ground? My planned area to side has a 2" concrete base, but it is mostly right at ground level. (think old hog barn floor). What do you all think about putting a 1X4 horizontally just above ground level, and mounting siding so bottom is pushed out over top of the 1x. Would kick out the bottom to cause drip line instead of dripping on slab.?? Worthwhile ya think?
Thanks for you ideas.

 

[KennyG]

I think I would go with the washers on the nails. My concern earlier about covering the holes is that I think if you leave holes untreated, you will get rust streaks. Directly over the wood is fine. You could put Tyvek or tar paper to provide more sealing, but I don't know that it's necessary. Rather than kick the siding out over a 1x4, I would consider getting "ratguard" strips to go at the bottom to provide a good looking finish and make sure it drains out.

 

[dapper]

KG, Don't know "ratguard" strips. Could you explain further, or photo? Thanks.