Another Mini-Dozer

   / Another Mini-Dozer #361  
Camdigger, I have collected some parts for a small dozer that would probably work into your plans. Would you mind sending myself a set also? I do have AutoCad if that helps.
Great project!!!

Thanks Chris
c.schulz@charter.net
 
   / Another Mini-Dozer #362  
Any updates on the mini dozer?
 
   / Another Mini-Dozer #363  
I'm a little late to this BBQ but I'll add my $.02 to the mix. I've been working with Mini Dozers since 1969. They do have some problems. The original design had a bolt for track tension. All it took is a small rock in the track and it parted company with the machine. I tried a recoil spring like you have but found it to be too light. I finally used a set of rear springs from a Chevette. However, provision for must be made to have enough preload on the spring and keep that preload off the front axle. High tension on the track leads to premature track failure. If I can get some pictures of the set up, I'll post them. As the tracks wear they can snake sideways and derail. If you use conveyor belt (think snowmobile track) and put holes in the channel cross pieces to engage the sprockets it will help with keeping the track straight. It will also let the sprockets push the snow and small rocks through the holes. The machine can get a bit jumpy if you are heavy handed on the controls. It takes a light touch. I've tried idlers for the top and bottom of the track, but found they weren't worth the effort. It is a "Cute" machine it works well for spreading gravel, loose top soil and plowing snow it definitely beats a shovel.
 

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   / Another Mini-Dozer #364  
Hi RAWINOK2,

Nice work!
I'm about to start a Mini dozer project here in France. Do you please have more pictures and measurement information to provide me (if you don't mind giving those pieces of information of course ;-))?

Have you used it already? Troubles with anything?

Thanks a lot for all you gave us already
 
   / Another Mini-Dozer #365  
Hi everyone!
Liked this project very much. I dream of building Struck-like mini dozer for about a year for now. Because in my country it is just impossible to buy something like this. The only chance is to build it for your own.
If anyone can give me blue-prints of this "Another Mini-Dozer" I will appreciate that very-very-very much.
Thank you in advance.
ash_dinalt@ukr.net
 
   / Another Mini-Dozer #366  
Could u please tell me how u did the tracks. Pics would be great to. Please don't chew me out got asking but couldn't find anything about them
 
   / Another Mini-Dozer #367  
Could u please tell me how u did the tracks. Pics would be great to. Please don't chew me out got asking but couldn't find anything about them

Check post #6 to see how the OP built his tracks. Not sure about the pics in post 363.
 
   / Another Mini-Dozer #368  
Hi guys, new poster here.

I have read through this whole thread and am absolutely fascinated by what you guys are doing.
Although the concept is very different, what some of rock crawler guys are using in the way of engines and transmissions may be relevant to building a small tracked vehicle on a very tight budget.

One successful way to go about this would be to use the complete engine and transmission from a front wheel drive vehicle, turned around, so that the original driveshafts pointed towards the front and back. Then couple those to identical front and rear differentials (with one or the other inverted). These extra differentials provide four wheel drive, as well as creating the very low overall gearing needed for a rock crawler with reasonably large wheels and tires.

Earlier in the thread, it was suggested that using cut down tractor tires as rubber tracks works reasonably well, but in mud or snow the driving wheels slip within the tracks. If the rubber tracks were driven from both ends (four wheel drive) that problem might well be solved without too much extra complication.

Anyhow, getting back to a REAL tracked tractor, with rear drive sprockets. A front wheel drive engine and transmission, either manual or automatic, with the engine size and type of your choice, should be able to be bought as a complete package at a bearable cost. The differential of that could be welded up, so only one driveshaft could go to a rear differential to give the suitably low overall gear ratios required for a tractor.

Now the rock crawler guys usually run the engine offset to one side, and have the driver on the other side. These have a reasonably wide chassis, so that is a practical arrangement for them, and can have a low center of gravity.

A tracked vehicle is going to be much narrower in the chassis, so the engine could be located centrally at the front, in the usual position, and the driver could either sit on top of the engine in a really small tractor, or behind in something a bit larger and longer. The driveshaft will be offset to one side at the front, and the rear differential could also be offset, or central. It should work either way.

The rock crawler people prefer the transmission (of whatever type) to have a cable operated gear shift, which really simplifies the gear linkage problem, or use an automatic. One last thought. A factory power steering pump might be a bonus, and allow for some very basic hydraulics.

Sorry to dirty up the thread, but the whole concept has proven to work very well for the rock people. Their only complaint seems to be that the overall gearing usually ends up being a bit too low. But with tracks instead of wheels the overall gearing of this system may turn out to be pretty ideal. It seems to me to be a low cost approach using mostly standard readily available parts to build something powerful, simple and very robust.
 
   / Another Mini-Dozer #369  
You might think a bit about the your track tensioning spring. You don't want full spring tension on the track all the time. Running the track "Tight" will wear it out quickly. The picture I'll post will show a Chevette rear suspension spring compressed to provide movement when a stone etc. gets in the track. However, it doesn't hold that pressure on the track all the time. Inside the square tube is a stop, the all-thread provides a means of tensioning at the rear of the spring, without putting that tension on the track. The nut at the front of the all-thread is tightened only enough to get the correct "Slack" in the track.
 

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