backhoe subframe for a B-7510 bota

[Dongerosa]

I've been building a CDP model mid600 hoe. want to make a subframe, verse the 3pt mount as designed for the B-7510. My plan is to weld bracket to the loader mounts for the front connection, the rear I was planning on using the 4 threaded holes on each end of the axle housing. I would have a steel plate mounted to these 4 hole, this plate would be weld to one of the two frame rails running parellel from the loader mount to the axle, then use this as the mount for the backhoe. thats the plan....my question is...are these axle threaded holes strong enought to support the loading of the backhoe?

 

[Luremaker]

I've been building a CDP model mid600 hoe. want to make a subframe, verse the 3pt mount as designed for the B-7510. My plan is to weld bracket to the loader mounts for the front connection, the rear I was planning on using the 4 threaded holes on each end of the axle housing. I would have a steel plate mounted to these 4 hole, this plate would be weld to one of the two frame rails running parellel from the loader mount to the axle, then use this as the mount for the backhoe. thats the plan....my question is...are these axle threaded holes strong enought to support the loading of the backhoe?

I can't help you with your question but I suggest you take a look at the woods backhoe subframe for your tractor and look at the mounting points Woods uses.

Please post pictures of your backhoe project.

Here is the link to the subframe mounting kit manual for the BH6000 backhoe.
http://www.woodsequipment.com/uploadedFiles/Products/Manuals/MAN0365.pdf

 

[Dongerosa]

good thought on the woods set up. looked at this before.

my "Dongesrosa Hoe" project started with my BX 1800 unit, which has been 8 years ago. I still have not finished it...too many other project...and the need has gone away. so, i work on it in spurts. this is one of the moments!

 

[art]

If you could find a newer B-series with the hoe mount you would see where Kubota mounts it. They are wise enough to keep the hoe mounted close to the tractor and higher. The hoe unit being mounted closer to the tractor does several things that are all plus's to the unit. By being close and high mount they drive on and off trailers without gouging driveways as some makes are notorius for. By having it close to the tractor it also gives the hoe less leverage to cause possible mid section damage to the tractor.

When looking at some of the aftermarket hoes they have ground clearance problems as well as the distance from the tractor making them less use full or useful.

 

[Dongerosa]

Back on the project again! this time I got some work done...Art you are spot on about the location! it looks like mine is going to have to be mounted low IE 9 inchs fron the ground...and about 6 inches beyond the existing 3 pt lower arms!

This is caused buy the swing cylinder location and the design of the hoe for 3 pt mounting. oh well

the sub-frame is 2X5X3/16 tubing picking up the axle and the loader mount...just as the Woods kit do.

My concept is sub-frame bolted to the tractor, hoe connecting to the sub-frame via a modified 3 pt style connection. this will allow me to retain the hoe's stand 3 pt config for potential resale.

 

[Dongerosa]

made some chips today in the garage. picture of the plates that will be welded to the bottom of the loader arms. please note that as shown is upside down...or needs to be rotated 180 degrees as it would be viewed/attached to tractor, and it will be getting a couple of bolt holes for attachment.


now the axle brackets....this needs to rotated 90 degrees ccw, and the sub frame will slide into the V opening to the round hole

 

[kateean2]

Just what I needed, thanks a lot.

 

[Dongerosa]

Just what I needed, thanks a lot.

BTW...the bolt hole location around the axle center line is... 1.031 up, ditto down from centerline of axle, and 1.90 front and back of axle. the bolts are M12X1.75 X 40mm long or depends on thickness of the plate used. see the attached sketch...it's the best I could measure!

 

[kuboter]

Here are some pictures of a kubota subframe on my b2710 that I took awhile ago. If you want I can take some better ones of how its bolted to the tractor

 

[Trials]

:ashamed: I learned the hard way
When you bolt a bunch of steel on one side of a tractor casting, and a bunch of steel on the other side of that casting
you better make sure the 2 independent chunks of steel pull against one another
...design your support frames as if they needed to strengthen the castings instead of testing their breaking point and you'll be fine :thumbsup:

Threaded Rod is your friend