Starting a tree and brush shear build

[Taylortractornut]

Heres a directional shear by Berlon thats built like yours is drawn up. There was also another company that made one like this and it also doubled as a puller to. Berlon: Tree Shear 5"

ALot of thinning tree shears back in pulp wooding days were built like this and the fall the trees to the side of travel.

 

[PILOON]

As I study your drawings I seem to note that you are going for an anvil design. Would not a 'bypass' cutter be better?
Also I see that you have but one 'ear' at the pivot point. I think you would want the blade to pivot between 2 'ears'.

When I trim trees my bypass is always best for larger branches with the anvil for the small stuff.

 

[yanmars]

Hopefully I can give you the photos you requested but until then the base plate is 1 1/2 inches thick, by 12 wide and 48 inches long. The jaws and cutting plates are both 3/4 inch thick. The hydraulic cylinder I think is 5 inches in diameter.

 

[stuartmcraycattle]

My drawings are rough but yes the cylinder pivot and blade pivot will both be captured designs between two tabs or in cut outs of the main chassis.. I pickup up my main frame today ( a former heavy duty hay fork box tube frame) I will post pics of the starting point throughout this week... The berlon tree shear is a real good representation of a very similar concept to what I am planning... but not planning on spending 3000 plus dollars...

 

[Piston]

I really like those 5" tree shears the link was to. You should be able to build those for a lot less than 3k.
If I had a bigger FEL lift capacity I'd be looking into building those 12" shears! :thumbsup:

Looking forward to your pics.

 

[J_J]

stuartmcraycattle,

Here is a simple limb cutter/small tree cutter I built several years ago.

It is 3/4 steel and I can cut in any direction.

It has a small hyd cyl, but will cut 3 in maybe 4 in.

I can also use it to cut roots.

 

[stuartmcraycattle]

J J I appreciate those pictures, do you have anymore of the other side where the pivots are or other dimensions while I have the plasma cutter fired up I'd like to make a similar one for cutting smaller stuff higher up

 

[J_J]

Some different cutters.

The forth cutter is a push cutter. The tree is cut as you drive through it.

 

[Tdawg]

My lack of knowledge really is in the hydraulic end but if the blade stops precisely at the stop block or within 1 or 2 mm shouldn't most trees be cut enough to fall and keep the cylinder from bending the blade?

This isn't a hydraulic question, it's a geometry question. When you decide on a cylinder you'll have to calculate where the pivot point for the shear will be located when the cylinder is at full stroke.

 

[Tdawg]

...any recommendations on specifications on hydraulic flow rates, bypass valves, pressures would be awesome from those knowledgeable in that area THANKS GUYS FOR ALL THE IDEAS

The flow rate and the pressure are determined by the pump on your power unit. I assume your tractor has auxiliary hydraulics? Flow correlates to speed, which isn't an issue here. PSI is about force. I would think that 2000 PSI would be sufficient. You'll have to explain your question about bypass valves. Do you mean control valves?

Everything is pretty much standardized now between equipment and attachments. Find a design you like and use their cylinder specs.

Hope this helps a bit.