MTD Snow Cab - Homemade :)

[rgs03833]

Hi all,

OK, so I don't want to spend $249.00, **** I don't even want to spend $50 for it, LOL hey i'm CHEAP!

Anyway, here are a few things that I started today and the Tools used in this project just incase someone want to build one. Oh, I don't have a Welder BTW so all done with the followings...

1. Pipe Bender (Borrowed of course)
2. 90 Degree and 3/4" 2 holes strap and 3X 10' Electric Conduit and Red Tarp.
3. Some cheap screws, screw driver, drill, and drill bits.

Total project cost is $18.00 so far and NOT going over $30.00!

Pix below, I will update once I get more things going.

P.S. The only problem i'm facing so far is the Front. The MTD Hood is like 20" across and when the Deck Bar lowered, it will hit the Cab . Also, the Back is only 32" across. Going to be hard to maneuver during turning

Measurements: 56L X 32W x 48H

Anyone can give me some tips i didn't think of is greatly appreciated!

Oh, one more thing, the reasons why i'm bending these pipes is because I don't want it to look like the Pope Mobile, LMAO

Hey, if it come to worst, I can always use it as the Pope Mobile right?

[IH3444]

That's a great idea! You are a smart and creative individual! Keep the pictures comming! That is a slick, and inexpensive idea. No to mention very sturdy indeed! I may have to steal your idea before you patent it.

[rgs03833]

OK, today I got a little creative, I bended the Pipes in the Back to get the Back wider.

A little Corrections on the Measurements

Before: 56L x 30W x 48H

After: 56L x 36W x 48H

Pix below are the Before and After Drawings and the bending of the Pipes. Also, I wanted to be a CLEAN LOOK so I have to redesign the Front because of Maneuver Purposes.

I use Copper Pipe 4" Cuts and use it inside at the Joints. This way I can drill the Holes on the inside of the Pipes and screw Screws to the Pipes to make it " Look Cleaner ". I'm affraid to use 3/4" Joints because if it's too Windy, it might rip the Tarp. This will also made it easy to put the Tarp right on top and it will NOT looked crappy or crinkle.

Let me know what you think?

[IH3444]

Four post mount maybe much sturdier. Will you be able to open hood if necessary?

[rsewill]

Looks great. Seems like a lot of money to put into an MTD.

[rgs03833]

Four post mount maybe much sturdier. Will you be able to open hood if necessary?

OMG, I didn't think of the Hood

THANK YOU " IH3444 " for pointing that out

Well there is a screw on the Set Screw Connector which will be Mounted to the Hood.

I don't know where am I going to put the Middle Support Pole when I take off the Hood though, LOL Hmmmmmmmm

Although I must agreed, 4 Posts will be much better and sturdier. But I can't do it because of the Raising / Lowering Deck Stick

I might make 2 Doors to make it more Sturdier, we'll see

[Craig Clayton]

I see you are using 1/2" EMT for your tarp frame. This should work ok for the cab. You broke an electrical code rule on your fender mounting, you are putting the EMT into a 90 Degree BX fitting,but that is OK .

I made several years ago a tarp frame for a trailer using 1/2" rigid conduit and I made a 3 angle hoop. Each piece was 10' in length with a 2" X 2" foot welded on the end to be bolted to the side rails.

Try to make 90 Degree stubs in this way you can make less errors than doing back to back bends.

The 1/2" EMT connectors can be got in steel instead of diecast but you will need to get them from a quality supplier.

When you make your 90 degree bend make it just alittle more to allow for spring back.

Craig Clayton

[rgs03833]

Looks great. Seems like a lot of money to put into an MTD.

$18.00 for a Cab so far is alot of money?



Hmmmmm, I wonder where you can get a Cab for $18 bucks?

[rgs03833]

Hi all,

I've been busy for a few days, playing with something else, LOL

Here are a few pix and update of the Cab.

Tips:

If you want to join the 3/4" EMT together to make it look Clean / Seamless without using the EMT Coupling. You can use Copper Pipes inside like the example below. The reason I did this is because of the Seamless look. You can hardly tell when it's done. Also, you can save a few dollars per Coupling. All you have to do is use 1/2" copper Pipe and Cut it 4" and then use Motor Oil to slide them in, use your used old Copper Pipes too but make sure to clean them or use your Brush on your grinding wheel to give it a good clean, so when you apply the Oil on it, it will slide in easily. To secure them, just drill and put 1/2" Metal Screws.

Now the Worst part is done, I need a Sewing Machine to Sew the Cab, LOL

I'm thinking to get 4 more Pipes and bend the Doors too, that way it will really like a real Cab and not a Canopy.

To get HEAT inside the Cab, I was thinking about using Heavy Duty Stainless Exhaust Flex Pipe and divert it to the back to give me some Exchange Heat. I don't think my Battery will handle a small Heater
.