No weld frame for hard top shade

   / No weld frame for hard top shade #1  
M

Matt_W

Bronze Member
Joined
May 3, 2005
Messages
84
Location
20 mile West of Pittsburgh
Tractor
B7610
I am looking for suggestions on how to form a frame to support a hard plastic top for my B7610.

What do think about using conduit?
They make pre formed 90 deg pieces.
4 of of those, a 10 foot stright piece and 2 t connectors

The weight of the wood is considerable if using pressure treated 2x4 .

PVC?

Thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!
 
   / No weld frame for hard top shade #2  
Just some speculation...

The conduit fittings with set screws might not be rigid enough and would look pretty ugly.

Assuming you are attaching to the ROPS, square would be a better shape than round.

Why treated 2x4? 2x2 and 1x2, properly braced will be very strong. Primed and painted, treated isn't necessary.

Have you thought about aluminum shapes, pop riveted?

Final thought - Opportunity to learn to weld and justify buying new toys... er, tools. :D
 
   / No weld frame for hard top shade #3  
Matt_W said:
I am looking for suggestions on how to form a frame to support a hard plastic top for my B7610.

What do think about using conduit?
They make pre formed 90 deg pieces.
4 of of those, a 10 foot stright piece and 2 t connectors

The weight of the wood is considerable if using pressure treated 2x4 .

PVC?

Thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
It will work!... But for the top, See if you can get some ''used aluminum road signs''... Then use self tapping screws to mount the aluminum.. That will keep the ''set screws'' on the ''conduit fittings'' from coming apart.

The aluminum signs will also be lighter than PT wood.

I made a canopy using electrical conduit with an aluminum top.:D

Just be careful if you have to weld electrical conduit... It is galvanized!, and can make you sick or even kill you if you breath too much of the fumes!!!

Bill
 
   / No weld frame for hard top shade #4  
I must have missed something, or maybe the thread was changed, but where did the OP mention what type of wood? All I see is a reference that the PT wood is heavy?

Anyway, if you're using conduit without welding, the roof CANNOT weigh much or it will give way, eventually. here is a thought.

We built a new home 2 years ago, and when I did a closet organizer for the master bedroom, I was going to make corners for hanging clothes. My wife didn't want corners, too much wasted space. Makes sense, but I hated those skinny little tubes they sell for the curved rods, something like 1/2 or 5/8". So I went into home depot and started looking and thinking. Seeing the 1" conduit with the pre-bent 90 deg els, I starting thinking. So I picked up an el and went around checking to see what would fit. What I came up with is taking 1" wooden dowel and cutting about 8" long pieces, and literally pounding them into the ends of the straight and el sections of the conduit.

I can hang from these things and they fit perfectly in the normal closet brackets. They are galvanized so no worry about paint chipping off or them getting rusty.

Oh, yes, no screws either, smooth and slick.

Now using them outside, I would think the wood might not hold up as well. Not sure what else would fit that tight and be durable, but at least it gives you an idea to build on.

By the way, the wood is a TIGHT fit. Sometimes it took some real pounding to make it work, but the end result is super strong and looks almost seamless.
 
   / No weld frame for hard top shade #5  
Maybe get the pieces of conduit cut and fitted and get someone to weld them for you
 
   / No weld frame for hard top shade #6  
Look around for old bed frame rails, Great to make light weight frames from. Easy to weld and or drill and bolt. Like JD said an aluminum sign is light weight and easy to drill and bolt to the frame. Easy materials to play with.
 
   / No weld frame for hard top shade
  • Thread Starter
#7  
KennyG
I agree the fittings that hold the 2 pieces together don't look rigid. I could live hiding the set screws on the high side of the pipe.
I think 2x2 or 1x2 would be a better choice.
Home depo/Lowes did have a 2x2 and 1x2 metal bracing with angle iron which I may explore.

JohnDeere4300
I was thinking of using lock tight on the set screws that would hopfully keep the piece that joins the 2 straight pieces in place.
Thanks for the tip on welding this stuff.

handirifle
the dowels would be a more seamless look, do think it would saty tight being outside in the weather?
I would think you could drill a hole and put a wood srcrew inisde as a set screw if it was loose

tbutman
I am going to look around in my scrap metal and see if I have any bedframes, that may be the way to go!
 
   / No weld frame for hard top shade #8  
Matt_W said:
JohnDeere4300
I was thinking of using lock tight on the set screws that would hopfully keep the piece that joins the 2 straight pieces in place.
Thanks for the tip on welding this stuff.
Click to expand...
If you used aluminum signs for the top and used self tapping screws to bolt down the aluminum to the conduit, You wouldn't even have to use ''lock tight''.

Make your frame and put an elbow on the end... Then put in a short piece of conduit as wide as you want the frame... Use the self tapping screws to bolt down the top.. Put a self tapping screw ''close to the elbow'' on the long piece of conduit, and one close to the elbow on the short piece... Once you get the aluminum top all bolted down.. There's no way the conduit can come loose from the fittings.

Hope I explained that OK!:laughing:

Check at the state road garage for ''damaged aluminum road signs''... That's where I got mine for ''FREE'' even though I offered to pay for them... They only had a corner bent up and I just cut the end off because the signs were too long... I cut a piece of aluminum about 1'' wide to put on top where the two signs join together, and added some caulking so it wouldn't leak!... Also put some caulking on the self tapping screws!

I can take a picture of my canopy if you want to see it ??.. I made it about 5 years ago... I didn't want to buy a fiberglass canopy from JD, Because I plan to build a cab for my tractor!:).... The homemade canopy has served it's purpose for keeping the sun & rain off me!;).. I think it only took me about 3 hours to make the whole thing!

On the front.. I put 2 pieces of conduit going down to the loader posts... There is a hole on each side of the loader posts... I took another elbow and cut the head off a large bolt and put it inside the elbow, and the threads go through the hole on the loader posts.. Then I put a nut with a lock washer on to tighten it up!

Since I put the elbows going down on the front (one on each side)... I welded in a short piece for a brace going ''across the front''.

On the short piece that I welded... I took a hammer to make the conduit ends ''flat'' so I could weld them!

Here's the type of elbows that I used... A total of six for the frame.. They are called ''inside pull elbows''.... Looks like the price raised on them.. I only paid a couple dollars for each from Lowe's.

EMT Inside Pull Elbow, 1/2" # 14605 by Halex

Bill
 

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   / No weld frame for hard top shade #9  
JohnDeere4300...I would like to see a picture of your canopy. thx
 
   / No weld frame for hard top shade #10  
As far as light weight goes if you use the conduit and old election signs. Around where I am from they love to use 4x8' heavy plastic 'cardboard" It is very durable and you can cut it with a utility knife and screw it down with self taping screws. You then paint it with some of the Krylon plastic paint that bonds with the plastic. With this you get light weight and sun/rain protection. B the same token there is no overhead protection except from acorns and rain. You makes your choices and you takes your chances.
 
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