Land Leveler Completed

   / Land Leveler Completed #11  
Nice job :thumbsup:. I am verry interested in how you made the blades adjustable. It would be great if you could get us some better pics that we could blow up to see how you did it. I have an box blade that I was thinking of converting to a land plane. I think it would be pretty easy to convert it.
Bill
 
   / Land Leveler Completed #12  
Nice job :thumbsup:. I am verry interested in how you made the blades adjustable. It would be great if you could get us some better pics that we could blow up to see how you did it. I have an box blade that I was thinking of converting to a land plane. I think it would be pretty easy to convert it.
Bill

The main thing it will need is skids.

Two other differences are that the land planes have a 2nd blade parallel to the first, & the blades are slightly angled to direct material toward the left for road crowning. I think you could make a pretty darn good land plane just by adding side skids, though.
 
   / Land Leveler Completed #13  
Did you have the steel or did you have to buy it? I really wanted to make one but finding the time is proving to be difficult and pretty much everything that I had saved to do it has been used for other projects.
 
   / Land Leveler Completed #14  
Nice work!!! I like the cranks.
 
   / Land Leveler Completed #15  
I'm like the others! More and closer pictures of the adjusters. We on TBN are never above stealing a GREAT Ideal! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
   / Land Leveler Completed
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I hope these photos help, it's what I had on hand. I will not be home for a couple of weeks. What I did was cut slots in the side pieces and then fit 4" x 4" x 1/4" angle that a plate bracket was welded on the ends. the cutting edges were bolted to the angle and i used 6" x 1/2" cutting edges with center holes so that i can flip them as they wear. I made a strengthened L-bracket for the outside pieces which (2) 7/8" grade 8 bolts go through the slots and allow for the up and down movement without twisting the cutting edges. the bolts are threaded to the inside bracket plates which are welded to the angle iron used to support the cutting edges. the screw jacks thread through the welded (nut to plate) on the top, and attach to the L-bracket at the bottom. The the threaded rod goes through an enlarged hole in the L-bracket which spins freely. to hold the L-bracket and allow the threaded rod to spin I just used upper and lower washers and nuts. the nuts have a hole through them and the rod with a cotter pin to prevent turning. I hope I explained this OK. I'm trying to be complete but brief. Oh one more thing, my handy helper was my quality control adviser. An absolute must for the amount of welding and fab required without using any drawings or prints. If you'd like to have measurements with a sketch, it will be a few weeks!
 

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   / Land Leveler Completed #18  
Very nice job. Your quality control adviser sure earned his keep.
 
   / Land Leveler Completed #19  
Very nicely done! And thanks for the larger detailed photos. Love the screw jacks. Do you have an idea on the weight?
 
   / Land Leveler Completed
  • Thread Starter
#20  
JUST MY OWN .02 I love fabricating and designing things for my tractor. When i decided to build one of these, I did a lot of research and browsing. I think the 2 most important things to a good grader is weight and length overall with a cutting edge close to center. The longer the grader, the flatter the grade. I have a york rake with gage wheels, and it works well but it pulls up the larger rocks (which you really want to leave as good hard base material) and then you end up with a win-row of rocks. The box scraper I have also does OK especially after I added ballast to help prevent chatter marks, bouncing, and to dig more solid. Also I added a hydraulic top link in which you can allow the material to build up or let out. the one problem with the box scraper was rocks would get caught in the box / cutting edge and just make for a pain, not to mention it would follow a tighter contour of humps because of it's shorter length. the box scraper does work well for crowning or ditching by adjusting your 3pt arm.
The land leveler / plane or whatever they want to call it has some great advantages over the others by the overall size makes it 1. heavier 2. longer overall 3.more stable 4. material still builds up inside for a reserve to fill low spots 5.it allows material to flow out the back when not needed. 6. no win-rows. Now here is one great advantage and I might find some disagreements. The cutting edges are set from right to left not for the purpose of crowning, but for the purpose of cutting. (very little material moves from one side to the other, it really just pours out the back) Think of it as a knife sliding across the ground, making the cut more effective rather than a knife being dragged across the ground bouncing and chattering. When I want to crown a grade I set one side higher than the other. Also 2 cutting edges are normally used for double the pleasure, double the reserve material, double the chances of a smooth cut, but more importantly it breaks up and churns the material so when it flows out the back it lays smoother and flatter. Heavier rocks will tend to settle on the surface, but you'll get that anyway except with a rock rake. Besides it's nice when the rocks don't get trapped like that of a box scraper. A quick pass with a roller or compactor does wonders. I still use a hydraulic top-link for adjustments on the fly, it really helps to work the material. I made mine 6' wide and i think 5' long. it would have been nicer to have it longer but i didn't want it sticking out that far, it would have made it that much more difficult to maneuver. Well there you have it. I feel like an editor writing an article. I'm just another average guy who thinks he can solve all the problems of the world.:confused2:
 
 
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