building a bandsaw mill

   / building a bandsaw mill #1  

muddstopper

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I am wanting to build a bandsaw mill to saw my own logs for my retirement home. I have watched about every video about bandsaws on youtube and its seems to me to be a pretty simple build, but I have a few questions. One of my concerns is chooseing the right wheels for the band to run on. I have seen everything from spare tires to vbelt pulley's.

One question is concerning the spare tires. It would seem to me that using a spare tire would create a lot of un-necessary rotating mass. Take more horsepower to turn and increase the possibilty of blade failure in the event your blade hit something hard (knot),
in the log. I also have concerns about any money being saved going the spare tire route due to the fact you now have to make spindles and hubs to mount the tires on. Free wheels from the scrap yard doesnt mean much if I have to pay a machinist to make all the hardware to mount them with.

My other concern is the use of large Vbelt pullies. Seems light weight enought, low rotating mass, less horsepower to pull and belts can be bought at any parts store. Priced about $45 for a 18.75 dia pulley, $12 for Bseries belt. $60+/- per wheel. Now the question is in longliveity of the pully and/or belt. I have seen many an aircompressor pully break the center out, altho they are usually many years old. Considering there might be some sidepressure on the pulley's while sawing, is this going to accerate metal fatigue and possible failure, or is this a non issue because the band guide wheels are taking all of the pressure. Another concern is the belts. How well do they last, do they tend to slip on the pully or the band blade and does it take excessive tension to keep them from slipping.

Factory bandwheels seem to be pretty expensive, $300+ for 20in wheels. I will be building a 36in capacity mill capable of 40ft lenght logs. To be honest, I can buy already milled logs cheaper than I can cut my own, but I cant get anything over 30ft locally. I figure if I have the mill, I can also cut my roof decking, subfloor, floor joist, beams, and other lumber needs out of the logs and it makes building a mill worthwhile, and I can sell it when I'm done with it.

I would like to hear any opinions concerning which type of wheel setup I should choose to start this build. If you have built you own mill, or know someone that has, any knowledge you can pass along, wish you had done different, etc, that might keep me from making the same mistakes would be very helpful.
 
   / building a bandsaw mill #2  
Please excuse my wild speculation - I have no experience with bandsaws other than a few hours of shop time on commercial units - a Delta used to cut plywood and a Grobb to cut 1" steel plate stock.

If you can get the whole tire/wheel/spindle assemblies in good condition from an auto, I think you have done an end run on a lot of the fabrication work and expense. You will have heavy duty, balanced wheels, set on heavy duty, easily replaceable, preloaded bearings with little or no runout. Plus there may be a good feature on the spindle assembly for easy attachment to the saw frame. The saw blade will tend to center on the tire tread and you can adjust the saw tension by changing the tire pressure, eliminating the need for yet another mechanical adjustment.

About that added mass when compared to a slender pulley - I understand your concern about wasted energy, but the added inertia may be usefull in maintaining a constant saw blade surface velocity when cutting materials that vary greatly in composition - like moving from clear grain to and old, hardened knot. If you can prevent the blade from changing velocity with added mass, I suspect you will reduce accelerations and therefore impulse loads on the blade. Sort of the way an old heavy tractor can work circles around a new, very light tractor that advertises more power. With the added mass of the flywheels you may find you actually need a less powerful motor to cut a challenging log.

Although I have no skin in this game, I have been thinking about building one for myself. Especially when I see what a pile of siding costs at the store.
 
   / building a bandsaw mill
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks for the reply.

I have no doubt that the spare tire setup works, I have seen a ton of them on youtube. I havent seen one work in person tho. One thing about youtube videos, lots of folks post their creations as they build them or just after they have built them, but few folks will comeback a year later and let you know if their beast is still functioning. That is why I am wanting feed back from someone that has actually built and used their bandsaw mill and is still using it. I dont want to build something only to find out later that it could of been better if I had only used this part instead of some other part. I am actually leaning toward buying the factory wheels, but at about $700 just to start this grand project, it has me squirming about how best to spend the money.

Just for more info, the majority of the wood I will be sawing will be whitepine. I have enought of the large stuff to build several cabins if I wanted to. I will also be sawing some yellowpine, as well as some red and white oak. Maybe some wildcherry thrown in for cabinet work.
 
   / building a bandsaw mill #4  
You might look at boat trailer weld on stubs, hubs, tires and wheels.

Use a hyd motor or electric motor to move the bandsaw up and down the rack.
 
   / building a bandsaw mill #6  
Keep your eyes open for an old GM midsize sedan... Pontiac, Chevy, etc. Mid '80's to mid '90's. These have rear hubs with a flat face on the back. They're easy to fabricate around. If you can get the whole car you have the hubs, wheels, and a lot of drive components. I bet you can get a non-running one for $100 or so if you look around. Once you're done you'll get about that much out of the scrap.
 
   / building a bandsaw mill #7  
I know of several people who built their own bandmills, but was not involved in the build so most of the mistakes you will have to make yourself. Sorry!! Only one has been a personal friend, the others were from the forestry forum, which has some really good and knowledgeable people on it. It is a great forum, and has values similar to this one.
The question about having the spindles built to fit wheels, has been answered in several directions. One is the auto spindles that bolt on with a flat back, and I will add to that you might use a rear axle from a front wheel drive car which MIGHT have a piece of axle available to you to allow easier mounting for the idler wheel. Muffler clamp style of mounting. As far the powered drive wheel, that gets a little more complicated, but there is a huge diversity in how spindles and wheels are driven in the automotive field over the years, and those parts are cheap (comparatively) to what else will be available. If auto style wheels don't make the cut with you, then definitely look at trailer axles and hubs. The good thing about them is you won't have the brake drums to worry about, as the hubs can be bought without brake drums.
If you don't have acess to machine tools such as lathe and mills, it would be a really idea to find a local shop or a hobbiest that accepts donuts and beer bribes, lol. If your not a good fabricator with metal, stop now and save yourself a lot of heartaches. If you can fab up simple metal items with sucess, continue on and realize that a complicated bandmill is just a bunch of simple projects combined together.
Pulley wise, the one I would pick would not be a lightweight pulley, but a multiple belt heavy duty pulley, preferably with a taperlock or QD style of way to mount it to the shaft. Those can be found in junk yards that specialize or deal in machines rather than just automobiles. If you can't locate the right size, you might need to consider (if the carriage allows room for) using a jackshaft to give you a chance to reduce the speed without having to go with a really big pulley or a really small driven pulley. \
What you have pictured in your mind is going to make the factors that control what will and won't work, so if you have sketches or pictures of one like you want to build, please post them for us to see.

Good luck with the project, looking forward to hearing more.
David from jax
 
   / building a bandsaw mill #8  
I built my donut tire mill 4 years ago,based on plans I bought from Bill Reeks. Then I built a 26'x28' barn over it-cedar 6x6 posts,poplar lumber,and oak siding. Right now,I am building a 24'x36' barn,but going with all metal siding.
I have never broken a blade,but I've ruined a few, sawing into the log stops.
I used trailer stub axles and hubs,the belt pulley is the lip off of another rim,welded to the drive wheel. Still on the first belt-single B belt.
I had the scrap metal,and an 11hp Honda.Bought a house trailer frame,and doubled it up,for the frame rails and cross members ($100)
I have had no problems with it, and just used it again today. The biggest problem I had,was trying to roll logs onto it,by myself. I built a log hauler arch trailer,and I can back right over the mill and set the log down on it.
All you have to do,to change blades,is let the air out of one tire,change it,and pump it back up.
Cook's Saw is the best place to get blades,and they sell all the wheels and parts,if you want to go with cast wheels.
I could put a 36" log on it,but 30" is about the largest I had,and I can cut 18'
If you are going to put 36"x40' logs on it,you will need a strong frame,or a concrete pad to set it on. You can't cut straight,if the frame flexes.
Mine is a no frills,hand crank up and down,push it down the track,basic mill.
Simple,cheap,cuts great,kind of slow(my speed) Best thing I ever built!
 
   / building a bandsaw mill #10  
I run a 34hp full hydraulic factory band-sawmill. The only time the blade ever stopped apart from the blade breaking, it stopped slowly, killed the engine and ruined the blade anyways. Speaking to blade breakage; I think we got a batch (or more likely a brand) of over hardened blades. they just like to let go out of the blue for no reason, but if they last long enough to get dull, they are fine.

Go with the tires if you home build, but you are going to run into real problems trying to cut 40' stuff. The taper will mess you up, and you can't just jack it up on one end since the log will bend if you do that and a straight cut will be bowed once the tension is released. If the only reason you want a mill is to cut 40' stuff, just buy engineered joists.

you might also want to look into swing blade portable sawmills. I think they have some real advantages over bandsaw mills, but fall sort in places too.
 
 
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