Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED?

   / Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED? #1  

joshuabardwell

Elite Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
2,926
Location
Knoxville, TN
Tractor
Bobcat CT225
I have realized what a difference a ballast box will make in my tractor's handling. Only problem is I just got quoted over $700 for one. And they say Deere accessories are expensive! That seems like a pretty high price to me, and I wonder if the dealer is just trying to have me on. But no matter. I've done a lot of reading here and elsewhere and seen others' builds of ballast boxes. Since I don't have a welder, nor any welding ability, welding is out.

I am thinking of taking a 55 gallon plastic drum, putting a drawbar through it, and filling it with cement. Maybe I should use a metal drum instead? Metal drums are a little hard to find around here, but I can get plastic drums for $8 all day long.

I have heard some suggestions that the cement may crack if it is required to support the drawbar like this (versus having a welded metal box to hold the pins). What's the general opinion on this?

Also, any suggestions on what to use to construct the top link connector? I suppose I could just take two pieces of bar stock and drill holes in them with a hole saw to let the link pin through, then stick them down in the cement and clamp them in place until it dries? Would they just pull out if I did that? Maybe one piece of bar stock, folded into a "U" shape would be more secure.

Any other suggestions are welcome. I believe that I have searched the site thoroughly for tips, but I have not seen anybody doing exactly what I'm suggesting, so I'd like to get some input before I dive in.
 
   / Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED? #2  
If you do a search, you find a lot of discussions on this issue. Many have built some great looking and functional ballast boxes out of plastic barrels. I have one ant that's on my project list also. Do a search and you'll see some great additional ideas on hanging hooks, pipes for chainsaws, chain storage areas. If you reinforce the concrete, with some rebar, you should be good. I would also make sure to put bolts etc through the other holes in the drawbar as well as the toplink section to prevent pulling out. Make sure you check the weight you need for your tractor.
 
   / Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
If you reinforce the concrete, with some rebar, you should be good. I would also make sure to put bolts etc through the other holes in the drawbar as well as the toplink section to prevent pulling out. Make sure you check the weight you need for your tractor.

Can you speak more to how to reinforce the concrete with rebar? Just put rebar rods running vertically through the concrete? I apologize if these are obvious questions, but this is a new area for me.

Thanks for the suggestion about the bolts through the drawbar. That is a good idea.
 
   / Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED? #4  
+1 on the search. Use Barrel Ballast and select titles only and a bunch come up. I did a wooden cradle and used carriage bolts to attach mine to a TSC Carry-all frame that I made a wooden bed for. Works like a charm and no welding required.
 
   / Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
+1 on the search. Use Barrel Ballast and select titles only and a bunch come up. I did a wooden cradle and used carriage bolts to attach mine to a TSC Carry-all frame that I made a wooden bed for. Works like a charm and no welding required.

Thanks for the tip. Like I said, I have searched a lot, but I have not used that specific search term. I will give it a go.
 
   / Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Only problem is I just got quoted over $700 for one. And they say Deere accessories are expensive! That seems like a pretty high price to me, and I wonder if the dealer is just trying to have me on.

For what it's worth, I just ran a comparison based solely on the weight of the boxes. I figure they're all made of steel, and constructed basically the same, so just doing a dollars-per-pound comparison ought to get me in the ball park. It does look like the Bobcat box is roughly in line. The Bobcat box weighs 230 lbs empty, compared to a JD BW15073, which weighs 88 lbs empty. 88/230 = 0.38 * $733 = $280, which is round about what I hear a JD ballast box is going for these days.
 
   / Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED? #7  
Who quoted you over $700 for a ballast box? That's rather insane.
Even Deere boxes cost about $300 for a brand new one....
 
   / Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Who quoted you over $700 for a ballast box? That's rather insane.
Even Deere boxes cost about $300 for a brand new one....

Well, I thought so too. But I did the math on the weight of the box, and if you just count pound-for-pound in steel, it seems like the Bobcat box is priced in line with the JD box. What am I missing?

EDIT: Either way, I think I am going to come out way ahead just building it myself.
 
   / Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED? #9  
Well, I thought so too. But I did the math on the weight of the box, and if you just count pound-for-pound in steel, it seems like the Bobcat box is priced in line with the JD box. What am I missing?

I've no idea if you're missing anything, but category 1 ballast box will fit any category 1 tractor...although Kubota has one that's shaped a bit odd.

I bought a Deere box...used, for $90 (including the sand ballast). This box had never been on a tractor.

Boy, I wonder if that $700 box was made by a defense contractor?
 
   / Homemade ballast box - NO WELDING REQUIRED? #10  
Joshua. on the top link connection I took angle Iron scrap and drilled holes to fit the draw-bar I had run thru the barrel and then drilled holes for the toplink pin and used bolts to the draw-bar.. The only welding I did on the barrel was some rebar cross braces to the 2 inch receiver I put in the back. to get that welded to the drawbar.. Welding with your head in a barrel is not fun. You might find a way to avoid even that much if you wanted a 2 inch receiver in the back ( I use mine all the time) by using all thread to bolt thru extra holes in the draw-bar.. The key is the premade draw-bar having all those extra holes in it.

Here look at post 26 for my pix:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...94-rear-ballast-gentlemen-rear-ballast-3.html

All told less than 100 bucks including the concrete, the hitch and barrel and draw-bar. I have added a couple of things since then, but you get the idea.

James K0UA
 
 
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