Dump trailer angle of the dangle

[600rider]

here is the link to the dump trailer that I built last summer and in it it will show where I positioned my cylinder. Although my cylinder is mounted opposite of the drawing you made. I just filled it to over flowing with sticky clay soil and it came right out!!! I have a "hydraulic power pack on mine and 12 volt battery. There are even links to videos on youtube in my build.


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/204019-my-version-kk-xb-dump.html?highlight=

 

[magicheater]

Right now my two " dump trailers" consist of homemade ( strong!) utility trailers that get dumped using my FEL.....
I need at least 60deg to get damp dirt to move with either a wood or steel bottom box.
And yes, once you get above 45 deg the force needed drops off quickly. If you have a front cylinder on your box you will start out by lifting 1/2 the weight of the box and its contents....

Here is a link to a dump trailer I built a couple of years ago http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/161183-tandem-axle-wagon-build.html . You need at least 60 to 70 deg of angle to get dirt to come out. I am sure a mechanical engineer could tell you exactly how to position your cyl. but that would make things to easy . I did mine by trial and error. Every thing works great. I can heap it up with dirt untill it is running over all 4 sides and still don't have a problem dumping it.
Bill

I dunno...I hope a seasoned trailer builder sees this and gives
me an opinion. I keep looking at this and it almost seems like I
should go w/ a long stroke and move the cylinder forward.
Additionally in reading I see several guys suggesting that
45* is not enough for sticky dirt, but more like 60* is
better...

I just do not know so I ask !

I have to concur with the 60* posters but realistically you could get by with 50* using common sense, more angle is better when it comes to dirt though. You also have to consider the uphill or downhill dumping scenarios which really makes the max angle critical. A scissors lift may give the best result. After all it is just a dump "trailer" and not a dump "truck" If you really want to go all out, install a vibratory device to help evacuate the material of choice.

 

[MJPetersen]

When I originally planned to make my dump trailer I was thinking that I wanted to keep things as low as possible, but also struggled to get sufficient angle to lift a full load and to get adequate dump angle to empty the box. I planned to use a scissor lift because you can get more lift power and range from a large diameter cylinder, but with a short stroke. (But then I found the telescoping cylinder which change my plan.) If you use a longer cylinder you compound your problem, because you must move the mounting points even further outside of the hinge pivot line to maintain or increase the initial lift angle.

One thing that I did to improve the initial lift angle was to lower the pivot point. This is a very effective way to increase the angle without lowering the ground clearance. I included a picture of what I did for my lower pivot point. I noticed that your pivot is directly at the end of the frame, but if you lower it a couple of inches it will greatly increase the angle and lower lift pressure requirements. My goal was to have nothing below the axle height.

I have about 55 degrees of dump angle and that is not too much. I wish for more, although I have only been dumping sand at this stage--to be honest the rough rust surface tends to hold the material more too, so when it is cleaned and painted it will be better.

I included a couple of pictures of someone else's trailer that was inspiring my thoughts about a scissor lift. I am very sorry that I do not remember from whom I stole these pictures and ideas. :ashamed:

Mike

 

[Artisan]

Thanx for the input all.

Very nice Bill. Did your ribs recover ok? Oh boy....

LeeJohn no, I did not see what you speak of, I would like to see it!

Thank you swick, I will look forward to reviewing it.

Looks like I need to go big. Bigger cylinder and more angle.
I will pick a bigger cylinder and draw in more angle and then
decide on things I guess.

Yes, I want to use my BX25 as the power source for the cylinder.

 

[bcp]

If you are building or modifying the trailer box, make it slightly tapered so it will dump easier.

Bruce

 

[Artisan]

Bruce you are one smart cookie!

I redrew things incorporating in a 24" stroke cylinder and moving
the lower cylinder anchor to the axle, which is 2.25" square tube
and VERY thick. I can not see just how thick but one tap and a
guy knows it is at least .25" wall and I would not be surprised
if it were .375" wall. I can strongback the axle top and rear too.
So the initial push has to start at 12*. Granted more would be ideal
but I can not gain too much more w/o loosing ground clearance.

I included a picture of the running gear I recently bought from
the Marines. It is a $3200.00 unit, all mine for $225.00. They
use these for generators. Once the generator is offloaded
to probably a ship, the trailer is no longer wanted...


Anyone see anything NO GO about this?

 

[Leejohn]

Looks like a go there. Are you having a overhang at the back,if so why? If it was me I would not. I did check my trailers and both are right at 16 deg. On the bigger one it dumps to 58 deg. the small not sure but it's close to the same. I did put sheet metal over the wood floor on the one for the BX and it dumps nice.

 

[Artisan]

The overhang is not decided upon yet...

 

[Leejohn]

I would think that over real good. I would go ahead and bridge the axle in back if that is where you are hooking the cyl. base.

 

[swick1]

You can raise the bed to make the overhang no problemo. I have been working all weekend but I found the spreadsheet and will post it in the morning. It models overhang and cylinder angle to calculate the Max. Load.