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  1. #51
    Super Star Member k0ua's Avatar
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    Branson, Mo.
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    Kioti DK35se Hydrostat

    Default Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal

    That looks good!
    James KUA

    Kioti DK35se hydrostat with 2 QA buckets, 48 inch. King Kutter Rotary Cutter. 750 lbs ballast box. Loaded tires, Construction Attachments SSQA Lightweight Pallet forks. EA 50 inch single lid "wicked" Grapple. Satisfied Everlast PA160 welder owner How to add a link to a post . Best way to search TBN


  2. #52
    Super Member Iplayfarmer's Avatar
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    Jul 2005
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    5,230
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    Idaho
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    Massey Ferguson 1215, Toro 266-H, Pennsylvania Panzer, Case 444, Craftsman 14/6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Soundguy
    i have a buddy that heats with a wood stove and he leaves a kettle similar to that on the top for humidity.. lookin good!
    That's the plan. When I'm out in the workshop this kettle will be on the stove. Then hot chocolate is right handy at any moment.
    From now on I will only buy cars that are a silver/grey color. Then I can make all body repairs with Duct Tape.

  3. #53
    Veteran Member Jay4200's Avatar
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    Nov 2005
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    1,803
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    Hudson/Weare, NH
    Tractor
    L4200GST w/ LA680 & BX2200D w/ LA211

    Default Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal

    Just out of curiosity, what is the advantage of electrolytic rust removal? I could do the same job on that kettle in 10 minutes (literally) with some Naval Jelly and a hose.

    JayC

  4. #54
    Elite Member SPIKER's Avatar
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    Jun 2002
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    4,425
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    Ohio, Jeromesville, Ashland County
    Tractor
    Jinma 284

    Default Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal

    JayC:

    Couple things one it only attacks the RUST not the base metal that the acid will do. It also is very good at getting into nooks & crannies. It works well on very small or very large items the cost is also rather low & can be left unattended for a day or more..

    Mark
    I may remember why I went to the other end of the shop, I'm just afraid once I get there I'll forget how to get back!

  5. #55
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Mar 2002
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    48,737
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    Central florida
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal

    and well remove grease and paint too.. things naval jelly won't.

    I like naval jelly.. when in a good application for it.. etc.. ( naval jelly COULD have been use don much of this.. would have done a good job mostly.. might have taken alot of product though.. the sodium carbonate for this project was plenty cheaper though. either way.

    heck.. the clr even did some to.. it's eats rust just like the naval jelly.. just doen't dry to that crust like NJ does.

  6. #56
    Super Member Iplayfarmer's Avatar
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    Idaho
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    Massey Ferguson 1215, Toro 266-H, Pennsylvania Panzer, Case 444, Craftsman 14/6

    Default Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay4200 View Post
    Just out of curiosity, what is the advantage of electrolytic rust removal? I could do the same job on that kettle in 10 minutes (literally) with some Naval Jelly and a hose.

    JayC
    For me I just wanted to try it after reading about it here and other places. Once you have the set up (plastic container, electrodes, charger, etc.) it's pretty labor free. The second kettle probably took less than 15 minutes of my time from start to finish. That doesn't include the time to season it, but that would have been necessary no matter how I removed the rust.

    I may try naval jelly on the next project. I have a small bottle left over from the estate of some ancestor... I don't remember if it was on my side or my wife's. Does that stuff ever go bad?
    From now on I will only buy cars that are a silver/grey color. Then I can make all body repairs with Duct Tape.

  7. #57
    Elite Member SPIKER's Avatar
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    Jun 2002
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    Ohio, Jeromesville, Ashland County
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    Jinma 284

    Default Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal

    I thought I would revive this thread as i had some small parts to do this past week and took a couple photos.

    again used the Arm & Hammer Washing Soda, Water and my Battery Charger with some welding wire out of the MIG gun that I pulled out the same week. The parts are "Fuel Injector Spring Clip/Retainers" for the Engine I'm rebuilding. I took a few photos of the process and the can afterwards.

    The clips were small and only 6 needed to be done. They are spring steel and very much impossible to do much for cleaning the rust off.

    The CAN I used was an old coffee can (small one) and I turned it into the Sacrificial Anode (Charger +) as it was quick & easy.
    The Parts were wrapped with 0.023 copper covered welding wire out of my small mig and were held in center of can by way of a stick out of the yard. the Battery Charger (-) was hooked to the wire hanging over the side away from the can by way of the stick.


    How the Can looked afterwards



    2nd pic



    Clips after they came out the black oxide on them



    and them in the can boiling away, note they cooked on the 2 amp setting & were in there for maybe 45 min at the most. I didnt get a pic of them painted up yet but they are red to match the repaint of the injector bodies I repainted after cleaning them.



    here is a pic of the clips with the injectors painted already then I had to scrub the clips to clean them which in this pic they just came out of the bath & had a rag dry/clean. They went into the house under how water and scrub brush to knock off the scale. then a quick dry and a dip into the rust convertor/primer/phosphoric acid as a pre-paint final .



    FYI the block lower end (it is all assembled now on the engine stand to the lower intake & rockers.)



    Mark
    I may remember why I went to the other end of the shop, I'm just afraid once I get there I'll forget how to get back!

  8. #58
    Veteran Member ericher69's Avatar
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    Ontario Canada
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    2008 Kubota b2920

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SPIKER View Post
    I thought I would revive this thread as i had some small parts to do this past week and took a couple photos.

    again used the Arm & Hammer Washing Soda, Water and my Battery Charger with some welding wire out of the MIG gun that I pulled out the same week. The parts are "Fuel Injector Spring Clip/Retainers" for the Engine I'm rebuilding. I took a few photos of the process and the can afterwards.

    The clips were small and only 6 needed to be done. They are spring steel and very much impossible to do much for cleaning the rust off.

    The CAN I used was an old coffee can (small one) and I turned it into the Sacrificial Anode (Charger +) as it was quick & easy.
    The Parts were wrapped with 0.023 copper covered welding wire out of my small mig and were held in center of can by way of a stick out of the yard. the Battery Charger (-) was hooked to the wire hanging over the side away from the can by way of the stick.

    How the Can looked afterwards

    2nd pic

    Clips after they came out the black oxide on them

    and them in the can boiling away, note they cooked on the 2 amp setting & were in there for maybe 45 min at the most. I didnt get a pic of them painted up yet but they are red to match the repaint of the injector bodies I repainted after cleaning them.

    here is a pic of the clips with the injectors painted already then I had to scrub the clips to clean them which in this pic they just came out of the bath & had a rag dry/clean. They went into the house under how water and scrub brush to knock off the scale. then a quick dry and a dip into the rust convertor/primer/phosphoric acid as a pre-paint final .

    FYI the block lower end (it is all assembled now on the engine stand to the lower intake & rockers.)

    Mark
    Nice work!

    Gotta ask what vehicle the V6 is going in
    ericher69
    IAFF Local 849

  9. #59
    Elite Member SPIKER's Avatar
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    Jun 2002
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    Ohio, Jeromesville, Ashland County
    Tractor
    Jinma 284

    Default Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal

    Ericher69:

    It is a Ford 3.8 V6 that is bored .020 over with the crank turned down .010 new pistons rings re-sized rods all the oil passageways, pump, heads, upper& lower intake de-burred ported & polished as I was board had the time and costs wasn't too much. The Heads had been done about 4K miles prior to the thing getting wrecked so I pulled em appart for the porting & polish job I did.

    It started to JUST be an engine swap from a 68k mile crashed Ohio t-bird into a 140K one from N Carolina with no rust. When I got the engine out of the rusty bird I figured heck might as well pull pan and do a couple quick checks. Turned out the crank bearings were wiped when the bird was wrecked so once I got into it I ended up finding more & more wrong and ...

    It was good for bore on 5 cylinders but one has some deep scratches ... Most of the damage probably leads back to the fact it was hit by a truck at close 40mph +/- as a dead center t-bone. The driver (teenage kid ran stop sign.) & they were original owners, the trans and heads were done at same time just couple months prior to the wreck.

    common problem on the Ford 3.8v6 were blown head gaskets and the transmission kick down linkage clips broke causing trans and engine issues.

    Mark
    I may remember why I went to the other end of the shop, I'm just afraid once I get there I'll forget how to get back!

  10. #60
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Electrolytic Rust Removal

    good example of work smarter, not harder!

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