Roll ur own land plane build

[Leyenda30]

Leyenade30, Looks good. I think the box blade is too flat. If you were to shorten to toplink to the box blade. It should roll it forward. The boxblade cutting edge shouldn't cut as hard. Then lengthen the toplink to the planner section. That should put more weight on the plan and take some weight of the boxblade. Just thinking out loud. I can see were it will do a great job. just a little fine tuning.

Thanks, actually lengthening the box top link makes it cut less. The front pivot point of the extension is right above the front box's blade leading edge and by rolling the box back puts pressure on the box's rear facing blade resulting in lifting the front blade. Then the rear link has to be shortened to compensate and level that section. I have thought about adding other holes where the extension bolts on to see what works best. Landplanes are usually like automatic leveling or so it seems. Mine is sorta like a stick shift. LOL!

 

[swick1]

Why not try a wire rope or chain to the tractor top link and see if it does better?

 

[Leyenda30]

Why not try a wire rope or chain to the tractor top link and see if it does better?

I'm not dissatisfied with the current setup but just thinking of other possibilities and adjustments. I think a soft connection would make it dig deeper if I'm understanding you correctly.

JP

 

[swick1]

It would dig deeper if your 3 point hitch was set to its lowest setting and the rear link was turned out. I was thinking to take one of the top links out of the equation and let it float over the land, making it act more like a pull scraper.

 

[joshuabardwell]

I really like your idea. It looks pretty simple, and hanging it off the back of the box blade avoids all the fabrication of the 3ph link-up. I have seen some land planes where the grader blade is angled, whereas yours is directly perpendicular to the direction of travel. Can you comment on this? I'm not really sure what the purpose of doing it either way would be.

Have you gotten a chance to use it yet? How did it go? Do you think that crowning could be achieved by tilting the box blade with the 3ph arms?

 

[swick1]

It would dig deeper if your 3 point hitch was set to its lowest setting and the rear link was turned out. I was thinking to take one of the top links out of the equation and let it float over the land, making it act more like a pull scraper.

Upon further thought try a flexible link on the back end with a cat0 toplink for fine tuning

 

[Leyenda30]

It would dig deeper if your 3 point hitch was set to its lowest setting and the rear link was turned out. I was thinking to take one of the top links out of the equation and let it float over the land, making it act more like a pull scraper.

It would be interesting to see what happened with the top link detached but it could be a hassle in tight quarters and traveling. I'll let you know when I get a chance.

JP

 

[Leyenda30]

I really like your idea. It looks pretty simple, and hanging it off the back of the box blade avoids all the fabrication of the 3ph link-up. I have seen some land planes where the grader blade is angled, whereas yours is directly perpendicular to the direction of travel. Can you comment on this? I'm not really sure what the purpose of doing it either way would be.

Have you gotten a chance to use it yet? How did it go? Do you think that crowning could be achieved by tilting the box blade with the 3ph arms?

Thanks, that's the way I saw it. Everyone has a boxblade and this didn't take long to cobble together without a lot of complexity. The integrity of the boxblade is maintained so nothing is lost in the process.

It would seem the angles blades would work better in hard ground slicing as it goes but this seems to cut just fine. Check out the video in post #17 ...still could use some fine tuning but does the job.

JP

You can adjust the 3ph like you say to get the initial crown started just as with a box blade.

 

[swick1]

It would be interesting to see what happened with the top link detached but it could be a hassle in tight quarters and traveling. I'll let you know when I get a chance.

JP

What I meant was to have a regular top link on the box blade and the flex link with cat0 link hooked in series on the land plane part. This would keep the box blade at the correct angle of attack. The plane will be able to move up and down with the changing terrain and the flexible link will still pick it up at some 3 point hitch height you choose.

 

[Leyenda30]

What I meant was to have a regular top link on the box blade and the flex link with cat0 link hooked in series on the land plane part. This would keep the box blade at the correct angle of attack. The plane will be able to move up and down with the changing terrain and the flexible link will still pick it up at some 3 point hitch height you choose.

The purpose of the land plane part is to regulate the cutting depth of the boxblade. That would let the rear part just follow along rather than guide the cutter just like a wood plane works with wood.

JP