Mock up of my splitter I'm building

[muddstopper]

Lets see if I can post a pic of how I beefed up my 6x6hbeam on my splitter. In the first pic, you should be able to see the extra plateing I did to support the backbone of the adjustable splitting wedge and re-enforce the hbeam. You can also see the additional 1/2in plate I added to the top of the hbeam. The second pic is of the pusher. My pusher plate is 1in plate, 12wx16h. I used more 1inch to space between the plate and the 1in hold down plates. I dont remember how many 1/2in grade8 bolts I used to fasten the plate to the slide, 5 on each side I think, but could of been 6. The bottom slde of the pusher plate is 12in long.

 

[J_J]

The 22 GPM 2 stage pump requires min of 12 HP, according to the data page.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7970&catname=hydraulic

Surplus tech help says 7 GPM at 3000 requires about 14 HP

 

[davedj1]

I have decided to go with the 16 gpm pump. Thanks for helping me NOT make an expensive mistake.

 

[Scooby074]

I have decided to go with the 16 gpm pump. Thanks for helping me NOT make an expensive mistake.

Good decision :thumbsup:

 

[Grumpy Old Man]

I have a husky 22 ton and it works great but I'm getting older and lifting heavy logs is getting old , I am going to start building mine this winter ,but we nned to see more pictures ,looks like you have a good plan

 

[LD1]

You have gotten great info thus far. As to the pump, with the engine you have, you made a good call on going with the 16gpm, allthough with that long stroke, my preference would have been a 22 with an engine with enough HP to drive it. Most splitters use a 24" cylinder. The added length will slow down the cycle time a bit. BUT, you dont always have to fully retract.

Ditto on beefing up the beam also. You can NEVER have a beam that is too strong.

Also, on the hoses and fittings, there are a couple of online places I shop when not in a hurry, cause they are WAY cheaper than local. hoseinahurry.com and discounthydraulichose.com are the two I like. And easy to navigate websites also. Surpluscenter.com also has pre-made hoses at a pretty good price, but they are NPT ends and that dont always work out with what I want. Example of the difference, I needed two hoses for my backhoe. 54" long 3/4" hose with 7/8" JIC swivel ends. Local shop wanted $130 EACH:shocked: Got two of them delivered from hose in a hurry for ~$80

 

[90cummins]

I build my splitter 25 years ago using a Tecumseh HH100 10 HP engine, 22 GPM pump and a 4" cylinder.
I knew when building it that 12hp minimum was recommended for full pressure but the 10hp engine was $150 new. The cycle time is 7 seconds out & in which is nice when you are working alone.
It will keep 3 men hustling to keep wood on the table.
As of this date there have been very few times when the additional pressure was needed.
It will build 2500psi momentarily as the engine dies.
Summary; I would certainly recommend the 22 gpm pump with your 4.5" cylinder otherwise you will be disappointed with the cycle time. Your larger cylinder will give you more pressure than mine and slow the cycle time down.
16 gpm will be very annoying invest in the 22 gpm pump you will not be disappointed!
Hydraulics generate quite a lot of heat make sure you have a hydraulic tank of sufficient size to keep the oil cool.
I have a 15 gallon tank and it will get hot enough that you wouldn’t want to hold your hand on it very long.
Your wedge needs to be boxed in to prevent it from being twisted whern you hit a knot.
Weld some steel plate under the outer edge where the wedge is to the center of the beam below to give structural support. Been there done that!!!

 

[turnkey4099]

I may be a bit late but BTDT.

1. I suggest you move the axle up further but keep the wheels just back of where the operator will stand. The tongue weight on mine was very heavy even with the axle moved up. Get as much weight as you can behind the wheels - makes a big difference when it comes to hooking it up or just moving it around the wood pile.

2. Wedge. If not using a 4-way adjustable, put 'wings' on it. they start about 1/3rdback from the point and spread to the sides a couple inches each side. Does two things. Gives a real help making the chunks split faster withiout having to run the ram all the way. Give more surface and bracing to weld. We built 7 machines form our homebuilt design in the shop I worked at. First one had just the wedge as your picture shows but it was cut into a 4" heavy wall tube - only used it a few times before the machine pushed it right out of the welds.

3. Valve - I put mine directly on top of the cylinder as far forward as possible and not cause interference when a big round is loaded. Can operate from either side that way.

4. I agree - your push plate is way too short. Will tend to 'nose in' or lift up in use causing much strain on the the bolts.

I sold off my homebuilt and purchased a TroyBilt. More power. I miss having the central valve and I hate the wheels being in theooperator's way. Unavoidable on a tip-up machine. But it is another reason I hate the 'wedge on ram' designs. Some other reasons - when splitting with 'wedge on beam' the splits are going away from me - if one "pops" it will not come at me. they do with 'wedge on ram'. Splits are out of the way with 'wedge on beam', have to be thrown clear with 'wedge on ram'.

Harry K

 

[davedj1]

To address some concerns,
first, I can't move the axle, I am pretty sure by the time I weld on the hitch, add hydro fluid to the 17 gal tank (which is behind the axle) it will be well balanced.
Secondly, I have searched the internet extensively and that is how I came up with my pusher design, look at a TW1 (I think), not a very big beam or pusher.
Third, I will box the beam in places where the wedge and ram mounts, hopefully it will be strong enough.
Fourth, If you look at European splitters, almost all of them have a single wedge, no wings, my thought here is to slice wood that normally won't want to split (IE, stringy wood).
I am thinking of a slip on 4 way.
Fifth, I am going to mount the control valve at the front top of the piston, accessible from either side.
My gut says to go with the 22 gpm pump but there are some very powerful arguments for not going that route. I asked for real world experience and got some good responses about sticking with the 16 gpm pump, I guess I could always sell it and buy a 22 if I am not happy with it. My calculations say that a 16 gpm should give me 11 sec cycle times and the 22 would give me 8 second cycle times, how hard do I wanna work? LOL
In case you missed it I just picked up a Huskee 22 ton and working alone it is plenty fast enough. I'm going to sell the Huskee once I get my splitter done.
I do thank you all for your input, that's why I threw this out there. I know enough to know that I don't know! LOL I wish I did.
The pump is pretty much the last part I'm waiting to order, now I'm a little confused. LOL
I don't get much wood that splits super hard, mostly oak butt ends from veneer logs, some poplar, maple and hickory and ash. I don't have a wood lot and have to scrounge, My brother buys log truck loads for his OWB. Some of his wood is stringy, birch, beech, maple and black birch.
thanks again,
dae

 

[muddstopper]

I doubt that you will ever get a consensus on wedge design. On my splitter, I dont use splitting wings, but I do have a 4way wedge. My first splitter I built, I sold to a friend. I used the long blade without wings to do the splitting. That splitter would slice a 10in piece of hickory sideways without even slowing down. My friend thought he liked wings so he had them added. It was very quickly noticeable that the splitter no longer would split the bigger knarly stuff as well as it would without the wings. Small dia wood with minimal knots shouldnt be a problem with either wedge design, but the bigger knotty stuff I feel will benefit a wedge that doesnt use wings for spreading the wood. Thats my personal opinion on wedge design, but that doesnt mean I am right.

Pump size and engine size can be figured in two ways. One, how fast do you want to work splitting wood, and Second, At what speed does cutting off a finger or two become a real possibility. According to your calculations, there is only a 3sec difference between using the 16gpm pump and the 22gpm pump in cycle times. This might not seem like much, but in a situation where you are splitting cords of wood each day for sale, 3 sec adds up over the course of a few days of work. On the other hand, Splitting 3-4 or 10 cords over a course of a firewood season, 3 sec isnt that much. You must ask yourself one important question, do you really think you can keep up with the faster cycle time, or even the slower cycle time, for more than a few hours at most. My guess is I cant for more than a few minutes and then My mind starts thinking about getting a drink or eating a sandwich, or any other excuse to stop and take a break. I havent timed my cycle times. I dont need to, it cycles fast enought that I dont have to wait on the machine and thats fast enough for me. The machine can wait all it needs to for me to feed it wood, but I hate to stand there with a stick of wood in my hand waiting for the pusher to retract before I can lay that stick of wood down.

Sorry if I cant come with a more technical answer on the right or wrongs of splitter design. Its your wood, your back and your splitter and you doing the work. Build what you think you need and then modify to suit your needs. You can/should listen to others advise, but once the build is over, your probably going to say to yourself, "Well, I wish I had of done this instead of that", and then you will start the fine tuning.