DIY Cab - Finally decided it was time
- Thread starter chim
- Start date
rabbott
New member
Man I can't believe how nice this cab came out you and the elves did a fantastic job. I've been thinking if building one for me BX2350.
But after seeing you do this, I don't think I could come close to the job you have done. I need to learn how to weld first. Again NICE JOB
OP
chim
Elite Member
Thank you, and here's an update:
Even though I made the cab in removable sections, I've kept it on the tractor except for the first Summer. The doors lift off their pins easily, and the rest of the cab remains on year-round now. I have a 2-speed fan that can be aimed at the windshield in Winter and me in Summer. The shade from the roof and the tinted glass make it more comfortable than removing the cab in hot weather. It was somewhat of a surprise that it has remained tight and hasn't required any adjustments. Our land isn't very smooth in many places, and it gets bounced around.
The original lighting was changed to LED. It has work lights facing all four directions. Switching controls front / sides / rear independently. There are also bright amber flashers mounted on the on the lips of the roof that face all four directions because I drive about 1-1/2 miles on the road to remove snow at our church.
The plastic strips that were used for the area under the windshield have been replaced with Lexan. The strips became discolored and couldn't be cleaned up.
Minor change to the door latches. The original inside releases were round plastic knobs connected to the latches with short pieces of allthread. With the weatherstripping, the doors need to be closed rather intentionally. Releasing the latch from the inside is done by bumping the knob smartly. The 1/4" allthread stems had a tendency to bend if I didn't pull the door toward me when smacking the knob. I made sleeves for over the short pieces of allthread to stiffen them and now all is well.
Even though I made the cab in removable sections, I've kept it on the tractor except for the first Summer. The doors lift off their pins easily, and the rest of the cab remains on year-round now. I have a 2-speed fan that can be aimed at the windshield in Winter and me in Summer. The shade from the roof and the tinted glass make it more comfortable than removing the cab in hot weather. It was somewhat of a surprise that it has remained tight and hasn't required any adjustments. Our land isn't very smooth in many places, and it gets bounced around.
The original lighting was changed to LED. It has work lights facing all four directions. Switching controls front / sides / rear independently. There are also bright amber flashers mounted on the on the lips of the roof that face all four directions because I drive about 1-1/2 miles on the road to remove snow at our church.
The plastic strips that were used for the area under the windshield have been replaced with Lexan. The strips became discolored and couldn't be cleaned up.
Minor change to the door latches. The original inside releases were round plastic knobs connected to the latches with short pieces of allthread. With the weatherstripping, the doors need to be closed rather intentionally. Releasing the latch from the inside is done by bumping the knob smartly. The 1/4" allthread stems had a tendency to bend if I didn't pull the door toward me when smacking the knob. I made sleeves for over the short pieces of allthread to stiffen them and now all is well.
PILOON
Super Star Member
I'll add an idea that I incorporated in my DIY cab.
I also remove the door in the summer!
On the side opposite the doorway I mounted two 4 inch 12 volt computer 'muffin fans' that blow air at me.
Those fans are so effective that you'd believe a wind storm was brewing. As U know moving air has a cooling effect.
Another positive result is that it keeps skitters and other hungry insects out. (we have black flies and deer flies here as well)
Also when I built my cab I added some padded headliner under the roof mainly to deaden the anticipated drumming of large surface area, it however also kept heat in during cold weather and heat out in summer as there is no exposed heated metal to radiate hot air.
I also remove the door in the summer!
On the side opposite the doorway I mounted two 4 inch 12 volt computer 'muffin fans' that blow air at me.
Those fans are so effective that you'd believe a wind storm was brewing. As U know moving air has a cooling effect.
Another positive result is that it keeps skitters and other hungry insects out. (we have black flies and deer flies here as well)
Also when I built my cab I added some padded headliner under the roof mainly to deaden the anticipated drumming of large surface area, it however also kept heat in during cold weather and heat out in summer as there is no exposed heated metal to radiate hot air.
davedj1
Veteran Member
How is the noise in the cab? I just did a fiberglass roof for mine and I can't believe how loud it got sitting in the seat. Of course my tractor is older, late 80's 34 hp Kubota. I'm thinking about getting some dyna-mat and insulating the hood and side panels then extending the exhaust pipe.
PILOON
Super Star Member
I had some experience deadening sound in aircraft.
2 kinds will happen.
Vibration that results in drumming like sound and then pure noise.
The drumming can be limited by adhering strips of rubbery adhesive in an X fashion on panels.
The higher pitches need to be absorbed with some sort of porous material.
What would cover all bases would be to adhere outdoor carpeting to the roof underside.
Helicopters use a self adhesive (about 1/4" thick) dense foam that is aluminum foil laminated.
I obtained some from a surplus source and lined my aircraft firewall and cowling surfaces with the product and to my satisfaction so much sound was deadened that I could hear the valves clacking. Made flying much more enjoyable.
When I built my tractor cab I lined the roof underside with aircraft padded (quilted) liner material that is commonly used in cargo compartments. It is thin at 1/4", quilted and fireproof. It has been amazing at heat retention in winter and helps stopping radiated heat from the metal roof.
Installing 2 computer 'muffin fans' moves the air keeping the cab very comfortable in the summer and as mentioned the moving air velocity keeps the biting insects out.
AND you dont sweat if the air is blowing!
(some duplication I know but wished to expand somewhat in response to previous post)
If U want to do a simple test grab a remnant of outdoor carpeting and temporarily stick it to the cab roof with double backed sticky tape and I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
(Preferable would be one that has a foam rubber backing.)
Some theory about noise is that it echoes on hard flat surfaces hence headliners (pretty) and carpeting (functional) will absorb rather than bounce sound.
The other is vibration on the large surfaces hence the glueing. (self adhesive roof membrane would work)
In many small aircraft they simply stuck strips of felt and even tar paper inside of large surfaces in an X fashion.
Luxury cars use felt under the floor carpets.
2 kinds will happen.
Vibration that results in drumming like sound and then pure noise.
The drumming can be limited by adhering strips of rubbery adhesive in an X fashion on panels.
The higher pitches need to be absorbed with some sort of porous material.
What would cover all bases would be to adhere outdoor carpeting to the roof underside.
Helicopters use a self adhesive (about 1/4" thick) dense foam that is aluminum foil laminated.
I obtained some from a surplus source and lined my aircraft firewall and cowling surfaces with the product and to my satisfaction so much sound was deadened that I could hear the valves clacking. Made flying much more enjoyable.
When I built my tractor cab I lined the roof underside with aircraft padded (quilted) liner material that is commonly used in cargo compartments. It is thin at 1/4", quilted and fireproof. It has been amazing at heat retention in winter and helps stopping radiated heat from the metal roof.
Installing 2 computer 'muffin fans' moves the air keeping the cab very comfortable in the summer and as mentioned the moving air velocity keeps the biting insects out.
AND you dont sweat if the air is blowing!
(some duplication I know but wished to expand somewhat in response to previous post)
If U want to do a simple test grab a remnant of outdoor carpeting and temporarily stick it to the cab roof with double backed sticky tape and I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
(Preferable would be one that has a foam rubber backing.)
Some theory about noise is that it echoes on hard flat surfaces hence headliners (pretty) and carpeting (functional) will absorb rather than bounce sound.
The other is vibration on the large surfaces hence the glueing. (self adhesive roof membrane would work)
In many small aircraft they simply stuck strips of felt and even tar paper inside of large surfaces in an X fashion.
Luxury cars use felt under the floor carpets.
OP
chim
Elite Member
I wear ear plugs or muffs most of the time. Noises created by the hydro, engine, etc seem to get trapped in the cab. This is less of an issue with the doors removed, but still too loud when running at PTO speed. I did line the roof and other sheet metal areas with Armaflex for hot / cold. It may have some effect but it's been there since the beginning, so I can't say if it affected the noise at all.
I doubt there's much room for improvement with the frame of the cab bolted directly to the tractor. I have some familiarity with vibration isolation at work. It is way more involved than putting hockey pucks between the cab and the tractor.
pmsmechanic
Elite Member
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Interesting read so I'll subscribe.