An "axle-surrounding" type backhoe subframe

I have a Luzhong TC254 (similar to a Jinma 254) with a loader and 3 point hitch mounted backhoe (LW-6). Having never owned a tractor, I had no clue as to the benefits of a subframe vs. a 3 point hitch mounted backhoe . Much of my inspiration for tackling this project came from dfkrug. His thread is here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/b...wn-custom.html
In his thread, dfkrug describes two major types of subframes used to mount backhoes, a ladder frame and an "axle-surrounding" frame. After researching every subframe design I could find, I decided to go with 殿xle-surrounding type subframe. I created an amalgamation of all the design features I liked in the various designs I came across. The information dfkrug provided in his posts was invaluable. I hope my design might help some with a similar style tractor.

This was my first venture into metal fabrication. I had help from an experienced welder (not in the design phase), however, if could do it anyone could do it. Although it took much longer than I thought, mostly due to my work schedule, it was a rewarding process.

I first made some crude plywood templates as seen in the following pictures.

I had to remove the star shaped hub, so I could slip the template over the square axle housing (see picture).
Attachment 289377Attachment 289378Attachment 289379

The next picture shows a test fit of some of the components I made. The vertical plate is 5/8 inch steel. It is the main anchoring component and will be attached at multiple points to the tractor. It will be attached to the axle housing using the same bolts that attach the 3 point hitch as seen in the photo. It will also be attached to the loader subframe and ROPS. In addition it will be attached to the drawbar mounting holes by a 9 inch by 1/2 inch plate that runs under the tractor. I'll try to show these attachment points in subsequent posts.Attachment 289401

The U bolt seen in the previous photo was replaced by 2 grade 8 bolts and an angle iron that will be bolted to the 5/8 inch plate. It will also be bolted to a 3 inch by 1/2 inch bar that runs up to the bell housing.Attachment 289406

The following pictures show the parts that make up the parts that attach to the tractor. The yellow arrows in the first picture point to pieces that belong to the loader subframe. The only modification I made to the loader subframe was to weld 1/4 inch plate to the sides of tube near the back for reinforcement.
Attachment 289407Attachment 289408Attachment 289409Attachment 289411

Below is the 9 inch plate shown mounted under the tractor. The hydraulic oil plug is still accessible through the hole.
Attachment 289416
The 9 inch plate shown from another angle is bolted to the 5/8 inch main bracket.
Attachment 289417

A picture from the rear of the tractor showing the mounted bracket. The bracket is bolted to the axle, ROP, front loader subframe, fender bracket, and 9 inch plate.
Attachment 289419
The next set of posts will show the modifications made to the backhoe.

I bought a new close out LW-6 Hoe on ebay that was still in the shipping crate and modified the subframe to fit my 3510 Branson.
I have to remove the 3 pt arms and the subframe attaches to those axle brackets and top link.
In the front I made J bolts to hold the subframe to the FEL brackets.
I don't like leaving the subframe on the tractor because it gives me too little ground clearance.
The subframe is critical to keep from busting the tractor in half.
I have had a hose blow off of a fitting and had to make a couple fittings to fit US hose because my local hydraulics shop could not match up the Chinese fittings.
I also had the round loupe on the end of a cylinder rip out and had to repair that.

VERY NICE work so far.

Are you sure you arent BS-ing us about this being your first venture into metal fabrication??

ONly suggestion I can offer: I noticed some of the bolts didnt use lock washers. I would suggest it as you dont want them bolts comming loose. And its cheap insurance. I would use them on every fastner you use.

The bolts in the pictures that don't show lock washers have them at the end adjacent to the nuts. In one picture, there are lock washers at the bolt heads because where wasn't enough clearance to put a lock washer adjacent to the nuts. Is there any value to have a lock washer at both ends?

No BS-ing about this being my first venture. That's why it took me over six months (having to work didn't help either). Thanks for the input.

You do some great looking work, I'm impressed! It appears that you put a lot of thought in your planning and attention to detail. Thanks for sharing