Anyone used Purple Power Rust Converter prior to painting?

[MNBobcat]

Hi guys,

I'm building a log splitter out of an I-beam that has been sitting outside for years. I was thinking about wire brushing it, then using Purple Power Rust Converter and then brush painting with Rustoleum. I can't spray in my shop just yet.

I was wondering if anyone has used Purple Power Rust Converter prior to painting and how well it worked for you? Did it keep the rust from coming back?

Don't want to pay the price for POR 15.

Thanks!

 

[kensnelling]

I've never used Purple Power, but have used POR 15 and Permatex. Brushed off all the scale/loose rust and applied the converter, let it dry overnight and painted. Haven't had any problems with rerusting (except where it got scratched later to bare metal) and had no adheshion problems.

I would say if you follow the directions you should be fine. On a log splitter the paint will probably go before the converter does.

Ken

 

[muddstopper]

The POR15 rust converter is called Metal Ready. If you look at the lable you will see that it is Phosphoric Acid. You can buy Phosphoric acid at Homedepot for a fraction of the cost of the Metal Ready product. Take care using the acid, it burns like heck on your skin. I usually take a old spray bottle and use that to apply the product. All you have to do is spray it on and let it set, after removeing the heavy rust first of course. Just keep misting the rusty metal until all the rust turns black and then rinse off with water. Let dry and the metal is ready for primer or paint.

 

[SPIKER]

The POR15 rust converter is called Metal Ready. If you look at the lable you will see that it is Phosphoric Acid. You can buy Phosphoric acid at Homedepot for a fraction of the cost of the Metal Ready product. ...

MUDD the POR (Paint Over Rust) is a Metal Etching Primer that does have the acid base in it but it also is a primer. It does require a Top Coat as it is not UV resistant and will degrade in sunlight.

Good but you PAY for that GOOD product too. several knockoffs on the market but not sure if any of them are as good...

OP I might suggest descaling the heavy rust and welding it up. then take it to sandblaster and paint right afterwards. probably get it blasted for 30~50 bucks in my area costs less than all the RUST TREATMENTS that you can get & apply. then use a bare metal primer on it and top coat with a catalyzed enamel reduced down slightly more and roll/brush it on. Do two or 3 coats and only mix enough for one coat at a time.
mark m

 

[len10]

I've used RustBlast by KBS Coatings. It also has phosphoric acid, but also contains zinc. After it's rinsed off, it leaves clean surface that almost looks like it's galvanized. It still needs a primer and topcoat, and it is expensive. After painting, it leaves a nice finish. My project was so recent, I can't vouch for durabilty.

 

[muddstopper]

Spiker, you are confuseing two different POR15 products. There is a metal etching primer and there is a rust removeal product. I am referring to the Metal Ready, blue liquid, that is used to remove rust before you use the primer. http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/metal ready q and a sheet.pdf . I havent bought any in several years, but looking at POR's web sight, it seems they now sell the same stuff with a different name called Prep and Ready, PREP & READY - METAL ETCH & SURFACE PREP --POR-15 Inc.. The jug I have setting on the shelf in my shop just says Metal Ready.

 

[MNBobcat]

Hi Guys,

I picked up Loctite extend at autozone yesterday. I'm going to try it.

I called every auto parts store in the area and they had very little selection. Couldn't even find purple power locally.

 

[flusher]

Haven't used Purple Power. Have used Gempler's Rust Converter successfully on several projects.

GEMPLER'S ® Rust Converter One Gallon - GEMPLER'S

 

[Tomtint]

I used POR on my dump body. Hit the area with a scuff pad and painted over it, It has been about 18 months and still looks good

 

[muddstopper]

I have only used the POR15 paint one time. I have several car builder friends that use it to paint the frames on old cars, and one paint and body man that uses it to completely paint Aluminum boats. The one time I did use it was when I was rebuilding my old hydroseeder. The tank was getting pretty rusty and had rusted thru in a few places. After replacing th metal, I had the inside of the tank sandblasted and then used the metal ready rust remover to get what the sand blasting had missed. I then painted the inside of the tank with POR15 epoxy paint and a long napped paint roller. The paint flows out really smooth and dries really hard. So hard in fact that it takes a grinder to grind it off. After 4 years of paddle mixing lime, fertilizer nd other material inside the tank, you couldnt see any signs of wear on the tank or the agitation paddles. The POR15 is pretty good paint for rugged conditons, there might be a better product out there, but I havent found it, or had a need for anything better.